Historical Jib Car Modification refresher needed

I'm refurbishing my Jib Cars on a 16.

I have these:

Once upon a time I saw a retrofit using the existing slide and new block with beckett. I looked but with no luck. I think MIKE was the author but the images are dead links.

Does anyone remember that fix and might have the post saved on their computer with the details?

Thank you!

You might be referring to the Ronstan traveler upgrade. Murrays sells the kit on page 22 of their catalog for around 200 bucks. I think that is intended for the real early boats before the jib cleats were added to the front beam. From your picture it seems that the type car you have is the later one. You can just replace a broken sheave if that is your problem. Harken has a roller bearing sheave for around 15 bucks. Just drill out the old one and use a clevis pin to hold the new one.

Thank you. Yes I'm familiar with that Sheave replacement technique. I was looking to replace the entire block. I've cut off the old block. I need an attachment vehicle to attach a new block with Beckett. Finding something to fit within the spring is proving difficult. Thanks for the reply.

Here ya go:

I used Trentec cars with Harken cleats mounted between the track and the mast base for 20 years. You can add additional lines to set up a barber haul system to set the cars where you want them. It's a bullet proof system.

The Trentec cars pull to the center with a bungee that passes in front of the mast through a pad eye.

The barber haul lines (red and green) go around a cheek block pop riveted to the corner casting, through the pad eye, through the lance cleat for adjustment and are tied to the shrouds.

The jib sheet is tied off with a figure eight knot in the Trentec car. It goes through the block on the jib, through a block that’s attached to the car with a shackle, through the Harken cleat and to the crew.

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Thanks for the info hobie 1616. I appreciate your help!

Culpyy, I cut off my blocks as well to use the slide with pinstop. With the spring cup remaining on the small welded eye, I used small Harken shackles to attach a bullet block without a becket. I had to file the one side of the shackle slightly to fit through the welded eye on the one slide, the eye on my other slide was big enough to let the shackle pass through. The ends of the jib sheet pass through the shackles and are simply knotted. This provides a very low profile set-up as the block basically hovers close over the track when the sheet is used or lays down on the track when slack. I haven't ran into any problems by removing the stand-up spring. If you used a Ti-Lite block, that would eliminate the small shackle and if your jib sheet could fit through the welded eye(or even taper the sheet at the end), it could be dead-ended there too.

Regards, Rob

Great idea Bob! I'll look into that as well! Thanks for the reply!