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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 7:34 am 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
TDK wrote:
Is there a way to knock-out the plug inside the shaft of the female end of the paddle to allow the PVC section to insert further?

I answered my own question again! I just took a 12 inch piece of 3/4" PVC and inserted it into female end of the paddle. I used a rubber mallet to give it a couple of good taps and this moved the plug further into the paddle. I should be able to knock the plug in another 6 inches to allow me to insert a section of PVC that is long enough to attach the clip and still allow for use of the other paddle section and the T-handle. Sweet.

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 11:25 am 
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This worked perfectly. This is a very easy and awesome mod. I love the way the paddle is out of the way, but still very easy to reach. I'll post some pictures later. One thing I have to check is buoyancy. I assume Hobie has tested this? I just wonder if the added weight and reduction in the size of the air chamber between the paddle blade and the plug inside the paddle shaft will cause a problem. Probably not.

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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2012 9:27 pm 
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Here are a few pictures of the process I used to attach the Scotty 136 paddle clip directly to the shaft of my Hobie paddle. This is how the clip is mounted on the paddle for the new PA 12. Thanks for the tips, Jacques!

There is a plug inside the female end of the paddle shaft that is ony about 5 1/4" inside the shaft. This needs to be pushed further inside the shaft so the PVC can be inserted and still leave enough space for the male end of the other paddle or the T-handle. I used the 12" piece of 3/4" PVC and a rubber mallet to tap the plug into the shaft 11" -- I marked 11" on the PVC pipe as a guide. The PVC may be tight in the shaft, but the end left sticking out can be grabbed with a channel lock wrench and it can be easily pulled out.
Image

I then cut a 5 1/2" section of PVC and tapped it down into the paddle shaft and used the other piece of PVC to seat it fully inside the shaft. I checked the depth of the PVC piece with a tape measure -- the tape should show 5 1/2" from the top of the PVC in the shaft to the top of the shaft opening. I removed the rubber splash ring from the paddle shaft and placed the paddle on the floor label side down. I then measured 11" down the outside of the paddle shaft and marked it with a silver Sharpie. I put the clip onto the paddle shaft and positioned it so the mounting holes were evenly spaced along the 5 1/2" piece of PVC, using the 11" mark as a guide. I marked the mounting holes on the paddle shaft using the Sharpie.
Image

I removed the clip and reinstalled the rubber splash guard (don't forget this step or you will have to take everything off to put the splash guard on). I used a 1/8" drill bit to drill the first hole. I then flipped the clip over and started a 3/4" #10 stainless steel screw and washer with a neoprene washer between the clip and the paddle shaft. I included the neoprene washer to prevent plastic on fiberglass and any squeeks this may have caused. I tightened the screw enough to hold the clip in place and then drilled the other hole using the clip as a guide. I started the other screw, washer, and neoprene washer in the second hole and then tightened both equally. This is a very solid installation.
Image

Here's a profile of what the rig will look like once installed. I ust slipped a scrap piece of PVC into the shaft to check the depth of the screws.
Image

Image

This is a great modification that will work with the single or double paddle. This will be really nice on the water with the paddle out of the way but completely accessible. Great idea Hobie!
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Last edited by TDK on Wed May 16, 2012 11:30 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 15, 2012 6:00 am 
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Location: Lake Park, GA
Nice work TDK! That's on my "to do" list now. Thanks for sharing the steps and the pictures.

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2013 Pro Angler 14 - Dune
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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 2:40 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:53 pm
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Location: North Carolina
Thanks, TDK. Your instructions and pictures were very helpful. Nice mod...

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Jackson Coosa
Pungo 120


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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2012 3:34 pm 
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Location: Orangevale CA
I think hobie should have used a convertible paddle board paddle. Kinda like this.
http://www.rei.com/product/801104/carli ... -up-paddle

It would be nice to have a stand up length paddle, a shorty oar, and a regular yak paddle. All hobie would have to do is make a blade removable on one end and have the T handle fit. It already splits in the middle for a oar.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 5:11 pm 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
I had the paddle clip rig on the water over the weekend for my excursion on the wonderfully secluded Breckenridge Reservoir. I really like the placement of the paddle. It wasn't in my way at all and was super easy to grab when the wind pushed me in closer to shore than I wanted. I did notice that the hot sun and water made the paddle pop off pretty easy. It wasn't a problem until I accidentlally knocked it off while steaming my way back to the ramp. I found that if I turned the paddle so the cip was on top of the rail as opposed to on the side of the rail, it stayed on very secure. The paddle blade is then sitting flat along the gunnel instead of parallel to the side of the boat. It still wasn't in the way at all. I was using the T-Handle and did find the the void in the handle did take in water while I retrieved the padddle. It stayed afloat, so it doesn't seem like an issue. That said, I didn't leave it in the water long enough to fill the handle completely with water. I'll give this a try in a controled setting.

All in all, awesome mod. Love it.

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Last edited by TDK on Tue May 22, 2012 7:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 7:08 pm 
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Because I am using the Scotty rail mounts on both sides, I cannot do the clip-on mod. I got the Surf to Summit paddle keepers that Boiler mentioned from to www.topkayaker.net and used these this past weekend. They hold the paddle securely, but I found that even when maximally cinched up, they hold the paddle kind of low so that it digs into the waves occasionally. This was not too much of a problem while trolling, but when I pulled in my lines and started pedalling back in at a good clip, the paddle was catching a lot of water. I found that you can just flip the paddle up and let it swing back toward the cockpit, it will bascally stay put on top the gunwale. So, not as slick as the rail clip appears to be, but certainly better than the stock mount.


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PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 10:30 pm 
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I do not understand? If you are turning? If you listen they said the back side of the paddle! Please show a picture of what you are talking about

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1988-92

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Take a kid fishing!


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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 4:17 am 
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Location: Virginia - Pro Angler 14 owner since Feb 2010
gotcha wrote:
I do not understand? If you are turning? If you listen they said the back side of the paddle! Please show a picture of what you are talking about


I think this question is directed to me, so let me clarify. You are correct that the clip is mounted on the "back side" of the paddle shaft, opposite from the side of the blade with the "Hobie" label. You can see from the picture below that when you clip the paddle onto the rail with the blade along side of the boat, you can't push the clip/paddle all the way to the back of the rail due to the bungy cord mounted at the rear of the rail (not visible). This leaves the T-Handle fairly far forward along side the rail. I often put my hand on that rail while pedaling and managed to knock the paddle off -- I never had the paddle just fall off on its own. I found that if I rotated the paddle to sit more on top of the rail, this allowed me to push the clip all the way to the back of the rail giving a couple more inches of clear rail space at the front. Rotating the clip on the rail also rotates the paddle blade to be face up over the gunnel instead of along side the boat as shown in picture. This wasn't a problem as the blade clears the rear rod holder and didn't get in the way of my tackle box in the rear cargo area. I hope this helps.

Image

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PostPosted: Wed May 23, 2012 5:39 am 
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Thanks I understand now. :roll:

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1988-92

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Take a kid fishing!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:43 am 
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Location: Long Island, NY
For a season and a half I struggled with where to put my paddle, then I realized that it just happens to fit perfectly in between my starbord rail and my RAM mounts. It's out of the way there, yet accessable in an instant, and can be secured in that spot with one or more of the rod-holder bungees.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:45 pm 
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If someone will tell me how to add pictures in a reply I will show you how I store my paddle


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 1:36 pm 
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Location: Jacksonville, FL.
I had my original Hobie paddle, which had the clip with small Velcro strap, for maybe a few months before I lost it :x . I noticed the clip and velcro didn't hold it very securely early on and always made sure the strap was as tight as possible. Well, 15-20 kt winds and whitecaps at Nassau Sound took care that small strap. Trying to navigate around Bird Island and not get swamped distracted me enough where I didn't even realize my paddle had come off. By the time I beached around the corner to get out and search, it was too late. Black paddle in rough seas is hard to see. Probably sunk pretty fast. New paddle has orange blades and I stored it between the seat and stbd rail with one blade forward by the horizontal rod holders and the rear held inboard by the rear extended rod holder. Now I use the paddle clip Hobie came out that replaces a bungee guide on the rear deck. Expensive lesson early on. I'm real leery about paddle clips on the side rail. I wish they had just used the same system with the bungee cord and eye like on the Revo or Outback.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 05, 2014 2:15 pm 
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As an FYI- we have a completely new paddle holder now, it installs into a deck fitting behind the seat

71119001 PADDLE CLIP PA12

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http://www.hobiecat.com/
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