Hobie Cat Forums

My 16 was breaking through (delaminating) all by itself. It was just forward of the transom, outboard side, port hull. Has anyone seen this happen?

Disregard the green stuff. Thats epoxy i put there to keep the water out.

I have a few spider cracks in my gelcoat that area next to the gudgeon. I assume it's from rudder stress of some kind or another. Been thinking i need to grind that out and repair it. Your picture may have convinced me.

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Garrett

94' H16 - 100403

was it splitting on the corner? The area you have the epoxy on is "solid" and doesn't (shouldn't) have any air space in there. Starting at the transom moving forward it is gelcoat/fiberlass/wood plate/aluminum plate/resin bulkhead all laminated together.

I had the same issue on mine. gudgeon bolts leaked and soaked the wood. wood froze and blew our the transom.




all better:

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Are you talking about the spider cracks in the stripes or somewhere else?

I can only see that the stripes is cracked and the corner was fixed with green stuff.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84

Right where the green stuff is. Just fwd of the green, its delaminating. You can see a few square inch puffed spot. From the inside out. Its just pushing itself out from the inside.

i see it now. I guess the standard epoxy delam fix would work there. did it start on the transom and work forward? you might find the issue started with a wet transom? and the epoxy injection will only bandaid a bigger issue?

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'73 hobie 16 restored 2011
'00 Seaswirl fishin boat

Its probably due to moisture ingress into the core causing the delam, then it heated and expanded causing the outer skin to puff out. I would do the standard injection repair method, but after drilling the holes through the outer skin, allow the boat to dry out by baking in the sun for a few days. Then inject the epoxy. After injecting the resin, but before it cures, carefully use some sheet metal screws to clamp the skin back to the core. After the epoxy cures, remove the screws and fill the holes with putty (formula 27). Then gelcoat. The screws will compress the outer skin back in contact with the core. Maybe even use a thin sheet of plywood between the screw heads and the hull so that pressure is applied evenly.
I'd also install access ports in the hulls if not already there so that you can keep the hulls dry (open them during dry weather when not using the boat).

sm

Well..... the problem is quite a bit bigger than we thought. It looks like the aluminum plate that is inside the transom that the rudder gudgeon screws thread into has corroded to the point of doubling in size until it burst out the side of the boat!!!

This project started as a total overhaul anyway. I am going to sand the entire boat, and re gelcoat the whole thing. There is also a deck plate fwd of the left pylon. The previous owner installed for storage of personal items while sailing. I will be removing that and repairing the hole. This is just one more repair to add to the job. All spider cracks and stress cracks are being ground down and properly filled in. The areas around the rudder pivot pin will be rebuilt. etc!!!!! I'm will post pictures along the way. Here are some before shots.

A few more before shots..

The overhaul is progressing nicely. Taking longer than I expected, but that's the way it goes. All internal repairs are complete and gelcoat is all applied. here are a few pics before I sand and polish the gelcoat.

Nice job

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84