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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 7:46 pm 
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OK. I magnifed it for you Bob. :wink:

And I checked - it's only 2 years since the last paint job.

That was a sand/clean/spray w rustcap/dry. No primer. :cry:

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 8:04 pm 
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Nice Job! I'll be following how this extra work holds up for you compared to a quick sand and spray.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2012 10:19 pm 
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My hands are still numb from the sanders. Slow going on those round Akas...

And guess what we use to remove Aluminum Oxide? Aluminum Oxide sandpaper! :roll:

Image

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PostPosted: Wed May 09, 2012 3:48 am 
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Looks like a job for a sand blaster to me.

I had not noticed this thread the first time around, but now I think I'd better have a look at my wife's akas. My boat is newer and I may as well check it too since it has the akas off my first hull. I don't remember noticing a lot of corrosion when they were moved from old to new.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 11:48 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
Quote:
Have you Popped your Aka's Lately ?


Pulled the AI out of winter storage and first thing I did was pop my front Aka's off after continually hearing a not so pleasant noise while tacking last season and reading this post over the winter

Image

Image

Image

Is this just something we have to chalk up to as "normal wear and tear" ? and plan on having to replace the Xbar every few years ?

My boat is an '07 and has seen about 70% saltwater 30% freshwater use.

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:02 pm 
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Al

That's not as bad as it looks, I think. Corrosion is there but the slots are the proper shape. The closeups are too fuzzy to really tell.

Take a round file in there and see if you can enlarge the holes. The failed metal will flake or crumble like sugar cubes. If it's not to advanced, larger top washers will fix it.

If the flat baseplate also looks like its thinning, or weakend at the curved edge, it's definitely time to replaced it. Or weld a new base on.

How was the hull and brass inserts doing at those attachment points?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:10 pm 
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Wait! The welds on the round bar look alot like the corrosion on the failed TI crossbars,

Do those look suspect to you?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 9:18 pm 
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The stainless bolts on the front Xbar had a good amount of corrosion but weren't frozen ... the rears I couldn't budge. Inserts looked cruddy but serviceable. I'll shoot it all with penetrating oil and run a chase through the inserts

Quote:
... but the slots are the proper shape...


So, are the bottom bolt openings slots or proper bolt-sized holes ?

I'll get better pics of it all tomorrow

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 12:30 am 
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Mine were slotted like yours. This allows for a little calibration of the bars, so things may slip around a make noises if the bolts are loose. I would check for other sources like the v brace though. If the Aka joints were frozen they probably were not the culprit.

As long as your soc bolthead or washers can not pull through the slotted holes, you are fine. Slightly larger washers can still be added.

Mine were just too far gone. I think the pictures show this well.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 5:28 am 
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everything else was checked/tightened so I was excited to see this new possible cause and even more sure of the source when I saw what I thought were worn/elongated holes ...

Bolts were tight up front ... didn't try tighetening any more before loosening. Tight enough so as to prevent movement ? IDK. I'd wager this is the first tiime they've been removed since initial construction.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 8:09 am 
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Welp - Im back up and running. First, Second, and Third sail of the season was on Fri/Sat/Sun and all seems good.

I did a good solid clean-up and repaint with some Rustoleum I had laying around and re-rigged using new Stainless bolts and slightly larger washers and a dab of anti-sieze

. I did take a Dremel to the inserts and ever so carefully flushed (or slightly recessed) them to the deck - I've become somewhat of a Dremel Maestro building R/C model airplanes for over 25 years. Not something I'd recommend for someone having little experience with one simply because the danger of ripping into the deck if/when the bit grabs has a high percentage. My one bit of advice when working with a dremel - very little pressure, lowest speed to do the job, and let time and the tool do the work.

So - I didn't experience any of the previous "popping" noises during or after a tack (or at all for that matter ...) but the winds weren't what I'd call exciting ... 8-12mph with an occasional blow of 15 or so but not sustained. I purposely did not attempt any other adjustments (turnbuckles etc...) because then I wouldn't be sure what the solution was ... and I had previously adjusted things below deck without eliminating the POP.

I guess the real test will be when the winds are a bit severe.

All in all Im glad I did remove the Xbars and inspect - If yours is an older model I strongly suggest you take the time to do so as well. IF I decide I am going to keep this particular boat then I may order at least the front Xbar to have as a spare when things worsen a bit

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:34 pm 
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Hope the wind rocks your boat soon.

Let us know how the paint job hold up.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 12:56 pm 
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Will do .. and appreciate your guidance through this topic.

The Rustoleum was a temporary thing, I did it not expecting it to last more than this season.

I do however have a friend that does powder coating ... any concensus on that for our Bi Polar Bi Metal Bits and kibbles ?

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 1:59 pm 
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Better than spraying it yourself I would think. Anything baked on has advantages, but PC is still not a rustproofing process.

From what I read, powder coating alum for marine use needs to be done right. Blasting, etching, zinc powder, baking etc. Will that cost as much as new Akas? Possibly.

Might be worthwhile to seek out a company that does more than just quick jobs on car rims.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 18, 2012 2:10 pm 
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<cough> Motorcycle Rims <cough>

Ok ... thinking in tangents (so don't laugh too hard...) how about something like

Image

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #2 Golden Papaya AI LadyJane
'06? Hobie Outback SUV


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