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 Post subject: How I rigged my Outback
PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 2:27 pm 
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Hi! I freshwater fish local calm reservoirs almost exclusively. I truly love my 2012 Outback (the second one I have owned), and took some photos today after 6 hours on the water (great fun with the smallies today!). Here are the mods I have made, hope some are of use to others or provide fodder for thoughts for improvement!



My Outback:

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Fishfinder Mount: waterproof bulkhead connector with ball mount makes it easy to remove and store. I can reach and view it easily, and I still have access to the rod holder.

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The battery and transducer are located under the front hatch. I used the transducer well supplied with the Humminbird unit. Just fill it with Marine goop and press it in. As long as you're careful not to create goop bubbles it will work fine. The battery cable quick disconnects with a locking 12V waterproof plug and the battery never needs to leave the bag. Just click and go. The charger now has the same connector so that is easy too. I also keep another dry bag under the hatch with tools, first aid, etc.

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I didn't like the hatch closure bungee method, so I swapped the cleat for a loop padeye and fashioned my own clip. Much easier to open/close. I also velcroed a 1"x3" piece of aluminum sheet under the hatch. I use it to prop the hatch open when I need access there.

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I've mounted a loop inside the hull just behind the mid hatch. I attached some 2' bungees that I use inside the hull to make it easy to retrieve items such as my yellow dry box (for keys, wallet, camera, etc.) and occaisionally some fishing tackle boxes.

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I noticed that I never need to lift my boat straight up. I usually need to tip it on its side to access the wheel scuppers. Because of that, I mounted two handles behind the seat. This makes it real easy to handle the kayak the way I need to.

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The rod holder turned out to be a real handy addition. If you mount one of these, do not mount the tip protector first as instructed. Plan the location of the rod handle first, then mount the tip protector last to match the rod length. It does make a difference in comfort when you store it and go to reach for it.

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The anchor trolley is mounted under the paddle. I don't use it often but glad I have it. I use a Cuban yoyo for the anchor ala Roadrunner (many thanks for that tip :P)

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I transport my Outback and sometimes my wifes new Revo 11 on my Honda Civic with J hooks. The ratcheting pulleys and straps that came with the Thule J hooks perform double duty by securing the boats to the garage roof for storage. Nice and tidy and out of the way:

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I still want to add rod holders yet, but am pretty happy with this setup. Many thanks to Hobie and the folks on this forum for providing most of my inspirations! :D

-Tim
Baltimore MD


Last edited by Twitch on Tue May 29, 2012 8:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 3:24 pm 
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Location: High Point, NC
Thanks for sharing.


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2012 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 29, 2009 1:19 am
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Location: New Zealand
Nice set up - I particularly like the through the hull fitting for the transducer cable. is that a Humminbird fitting?


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2012 8:50 am 
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Wow my pictures weren't all wonky like that in the preview, my apologies. It was my first time posting pics...

Hi Charlie, the 5-pin FF thru-connector (plug and jack) was purchased from Digikey.com. Be warned that this kind of mod requires some fairly advanced soldering skills. Cutting that FF cable is not for the feint of heart, but its a very clean and convenient mount if you're up for the task!

-Tim


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 2:26 pm 
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A good option is: www.youtube.com/watch?v=514DMzfus8w


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 17, 2012 3:45 pm
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Location: Upstate NY
Very nice setup :D The best part of owning a hobie is doing a project with it for an upcoming trip!

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2012 Hobie Revolution 11

1 other kayak for son


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2012 6:48 pm 
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What type of battery is required for the hummingbird and where do you store it?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 8:56 am 
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Hi Bonginator,

The battery is a smaller sized 12V. It comes with the Humminbird unit if you buy their 385i Kayak combo kit. They even provide the drybag for it.

I guess its not clear from my photos, but the battery is stored under the front hatch. The fifth picture down shows a waterproof 12V cigarette lighter socket under the hatch. The sixth picture shows the battery in its dry bag with the jack plugged in. The clip you see there is to remove all strain from the cable.

I open the hatch, drop the bag in and clip it with the caribiner, then plug in the socket. UP top, the display mounts easily by just tightening the RAM ball joint, then just plug in the cable. The connector has five pins - three are used for the transducer and two for the battery.

I've been out with it maybe 20 times so far and couldn't be happier with this setup, but I will add forward rod holders someday.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2012 4:37 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
Twitch wrote:
Wow my pictures weren't all wonky like that in the preview, my apologies. It was my first time posting pics...

Hi Charlie, the 5-pin FF thru-connector (plug and jack) was purchased from Digikey.com. Be warned that this kind of mod requires some fairly advanced soldering skills. Cutting that FF cable is not for the feint of heart, but its a very clean and convenient mount if you're up for the task!

-Tim


Do you have a specific link to the through connector? Been looking for something like this for quite a while now...


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 9:08 am 
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Hi unrealshots,

Here are links to the parts I used:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/526243
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/526234
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/e ... -ND/965061

Parts are not too expensive, but the shipping will getcha :shock:

The pin spacing is very small, so precision soldering is required. Use heat shrink tubing where possible. The exposed soldered pins under the bulkhead are encased in goop to make it waterproof. Five pins were appropriate for my unit (2 for transducer+1 shield, +2 for battery) but may be different for yours so make sure before you cut.

This system works great and is hard to beat for a quick, clean portable installation system. Good luck!

-Tim


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 5:49 pm 
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That is a really cool setup! I'm in the planning stages for where everything is gonna go on my Outback.

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Jef "One F" Brewer
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www.pacificoutfitters.com
www.littlecreeperbaits.com


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2012 4:25 pm 
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Just one comment so others are aware. Its never a good idea to put holes below waterline. The bottom holes on your anchor trolley look like they may be under water ocasionaly. Better to not put an anchor trolley on for a while to see if you realy need it. Anchoring can be dangerous and most Hobie owners dont need one, prefering to use their drive as needed.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 9:33 am 
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Bah, I wont stress about a 1/8th inch hole, plugged with a threaded screw, backed with a fender washer and secured with a nylon nut, all encased in goop, in the calm waters I go in ... but of course in general you're right, YMMV!

It's sometimes difficult and tedious to use the drive to keep still for long periods, and impossible if you want to orient your boat the other way around, plus the fin motion puts wary fish on guard. The trolley is an absolute necessity for me and the way I like to fish, again ... YMMV!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 02, 2012 10:46 am 
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Hi Twitch, I think an Outback for me and a Rev 11 for my wife is probably in our near future. I see you carry these on your Honda Civic. Just wondering how the Thule J hooks work out in your situation. I would be loading them on a Kia Sorrento which is a bit taller that the Civic. Thanks for the tips, I'm collecting all the info I can before I commit.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 03, 2012 9:19 am 
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Hi toleworks,

The wifes Revo11 goes up and down very easily - it is very light and I added a handle behind the seat to help - no problems there at all. The Outback is tougher because it is fairly heavy, so this is my typical procedure:

1. Take an old carpet remnant and put it on the ground next to the front wheel (protects the hull later).

2. Wheel the kayak up next to the car rudder end facing forward with the middle of the kayak at about the midpoint of the car.

3. Lift the front end of the kayak up using the built-in handle and a handle I installed behind the seat, and rest it on the car rear J-hook arm. When I first started doing this I was using a small section of PVC pipe to extend the J-Hook arm for a longer resting support, but stopped doing this as I got better at it. The wheels fall away and the carpet is now protecting the kayak rear end.

4. Get under the mid-rear section of the Kayak and push it up onto the car front J-Hook and center it. This step is admittedly never elegant or easy, but can be done with confidence and reliability with some practice. The bulk of the kayak is above you and its hard to see the J-Hooks, plus it likes to slip around on the cradles, but with a determined maneuver it is manageable. I'm nearly 50 years old 6'-0 190 lbs. Sometimes it's a wrestling match but I've never dropped it. I do this nearly once a week year round except winter.

The procedure reverses for unloading.

I have to say it would probably be too tough for me to do by myself on a car that was ... say ... 1 foot taller than my Civic.

We love our Kayaks and regret not getting them sooner. My Outback is my favorite toy ever! I hope this helps you to somehow decide to go ahead and get your kayaks and find a way to transport them safely. Cheers!

-Tim


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