Hobie Cat Forums

Finally made our first mod to the boat. Not an easy thing to do drilling into the hull for the first time. Because the location of the starboard gudgeon was just a bit low, the righting line interfered with deflecting the rudders full to one side or the other. So we installed a harken padeye, routed the righting line through it with a knot in the end. Cleaned up the stern and solved the problem of the rudder deflection.

On to the next mod!

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"Spirit of 76" Hobie Sail #18515
2001 Hobie 16, Sail #105865
1981 Hobie 18, Project Boat

Brilliant. I like that idea and may steal it.

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-Zach
Hobie 16 for sale
West Lafayette, IN (school)
Melbourne, FL (summer)

Righting the boat will put a lot of strain on those little eye strap screws. Are they backed up with nuts and washers underneath?

My thoughts exactly. I would not use a self-tapping or wood screw for this. It needs a S/S rivet or machine screw & nut either of which needs to be backed up with a washer. I would also question the strength of a plastic fairlead. I think I would have used stainless. Something that I would be confident can support 350+ LBS.

sm

Yea, I took a piece of SS, 2"x1", about the thickness of a thick washer, drilled it for the bolts, gave it some bend to contour with the lip, and bolted through it inside the lip. I did the same thing on my other boat and haven't had any problems, the padeye is plastic over a SS core.

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"Spirit of 76" Hobie Sail #18515
2001 Hobie 16, Sail #105865
1981 Hobie 18, Project Boat

Interesting solution. I just drilled a hole through the lip and ran the line through that. You're using heavier line so the fairlead is needed.

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Not trying to dis your mod, I've seen that type of mout before, just trying to understand a little more. Is there an advantage of anchoring the righting line in that location? Wouldn't it work just as well if tied to the rear pylon? Drilling holes in the hulls would bother me also.