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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 11:00 am 
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hi there,

i want change the main traveler of my h18.
Every time i need to sheet in or out i have troubles cause, with the main sheeted, is too much hard use the traveler.
What about the Harken 2729 HL traveler ?

http://www.blockandwinch.com/acatalog/H ... _Cars.html

thank you
max


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 1:51 pm 
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Location: Metuchen NJ
no can do with the Harken. they all require a H section track to slide along, which requires a flat surface.

you can purchase rebuilding parts for the Hobie 18 traveler. the sliding ball/slug, the sheet rollers, the bumper rollers and the roller stand offs.

its all a pretty simple rebuild job, except for the stand-offs which must be drilled out to remove. you then install the new ones and peen over the ends.

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Chris
'88 H18SE Arís


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 3:37 pm 
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my traveler works pretty slick with the two teflon balls instead of just the one and the other longer one. Put a little mclube in there as well


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 4:37 pm 
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Location: West MI
Two balls slide well in the Hobie 18 traveller track. Trial that first before trying anything else.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2012 7:00 pm 
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Location: North Carolina
If you were to install the "H" track along the rear beam it would work flawlessly. You would need to craft risers for the outer ends to keep it level across the beam. Install it as far back on the beam as possible and change your main blocks to single hanger triples. Hang the blocks a little aft of the track and your done. I have considered this many times when trying to travel the main out to backwind my spin.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 6:19 am 
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OlderBowman wrote:
no can do with the Harken. they all require a H section track to slide along, which requires a flat surface.


I think this is incorrect. Check the Harken website, they state that curved traveller tracks are no problem...

http://www.harken.com/charts/curvedtrack.php

Also, the original H17 Sports came with a Harken traveler track riveted to the rear beam, and that was a curved beam. And many boats use curved Harken traveller tracks for their self-tacking jibs.

In any case, the problem with the harken travellers is that the friction is so low that when you sheet in the main, you end up pulling the whole block stack to windward.

I've never really had much issue with the stock H18 track. It's a little draggy, by is adequate. You need to keep the track clean and lubed with silicone and it will operate fine. We don't work the main traveller sailing upwind, at least not on a constant basis. I may have the crew drop it down or pull it up a few inches, but it's more of a gross setting. Working the mainsheet and the downhaul as well as steering properly is the way to sail the 18 upwind.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 10:12 am 
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correction noted. thanks for the info. :wink:

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'88 H18SE Arís


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 26, 2012 9:12 pm 
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The track can't curve downward! It has to be level or it will bind. Jib track is curved toward the sail to keep tension the same thru the range of travel. A flat forward curving track would be best, like the A cats use. Would be a pita in light air and do exactly as SRM describes.

Unless your flying a spin in traffic the stock system is fine, but if you are too hot under spin and need to slow down it bites. Even kicking it with your foot is hard with a spin pulling against it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 3:26 am 
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ncmbm wrote:
The track can't curve downward! It has to be level or it will bind.


Harken claims that their tracks can be curved in any direction...

Image

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:21 am 
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My "free" spare parts 18 came with a Harken traveler on the rear crossbar. A couple of years ago I added to our boat and it is an improvement. It works very well overall, but it is not enough better than the stock traveler design to warrant the money and effort required to make the change. While I do prefer the Harken taveler, if it wasn't "free" (or if I raced one-design) I wouldn't bother.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 3:41 pm 
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I would tend to think that with the track curved down, the main would try to go uphill, especially when you sheeted in. The Harken system works great on my boat, but it does have some drawbacks, the biggest one being cost. Second, you cant really sheet in reliably while traveled out. Not a problem on my boat as its in the center position 95% of the time unless I need to depower the spin some. I would use some silicon spray and use what you have.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 6:21 pm 
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For a lubricant, try Boeshield. It lasts a lot longer than any silicone sprays I have tried. http://www.boeshield.com

Jim Doty


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:21 am 
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Would Boeshield T-9 be appropriate for the bolt rope?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 7:45 am 
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Boeshield is too expensive for a bolt rope.

Pledge furniture polish.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 29, 2012 2:48 pm 
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JSWoerner wrote:
Would Boeshield T-9 be appropriate for the bolt rope?


No, too oily.

Also, you don't have to worry about water washing the silicone spray off your bolt rope.


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