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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 7:21 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:09 am
Posts: 50
Location: Austin, TX
What is the best way to solo step the mast?

I have a high enough mast support on my trailer to install a winch, just wondered if some of you 14 vets out there had any suggestions.

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83 Hobie 14 Turbo - Cat Fever
86 Hobie Holder 12 "Mello Yello"


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2012 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
Posts: 556
Location: Central Oregon
I just did it yesterday by loosening up all the adjusters on the rigging, then get the mast stood up on the ground in front of the tramp then just pick it straight up and set it into the mast base cup. The rigging will be loose and floppy but it will stay up. You can then tighten up the rigging using an extra pin put through the thimble below the one thats currently holding the mast up.

Page 10/11 of the manual... http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_asse ... manual.pdf (they dont have the forestay connected...I was able to have the shrouds and forestay all hooked up as loose as I could make them.)

This is a lil sketchy but it works. I would stand it with help and make sure you can have enough slack in the rigging to pull the mast base out of the cup 1st.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 4:34 am 
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Location: Tampa, FL
Several ways to skin that cat. Check this thread.

http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33122


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:23 am 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:14 am
Posts: 18
Location: DC Metro
I have to use public ramps, so I step on the trailer and then launch.
I have borrowed many ideas from this forum.
I fabricated a telescoping extension to the front mast support that raises the purchase about 10 feet off the ground.
I run the strap of the recovery winch over a keel roller on the top of this extension and tie the end of the main halyard to the hook. The shackle end of the halyard is secured to the mast about a foot above the base.
I installed a removable mast support on the rear of the trailer that holds the top of the mast 6 feet off the ground.
I use ratchet straps hooked into the trap wires to stop the side to side motion.
I can then use the recovery winch to crank up the mast.
This was an off the shelf, nut and bolt project. A buddy re welded the mast support base but this was due to corrosion damage that a trial raising exposed.
I had him weld a brace at the top also but I could have bolted that up.
I used 1-1/2 Uni strut, and boat trailer rollers.
I know this sounds involved, but it enables me to raise the mast by myself in a potentially crowded parking lot with no strain.
I am working on posting images. I'll try to get some decent pictures this weekend.
Keep 'em sailin, GH
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu23 ... st%20step/

ps. open link in new tab


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 27, 2012 9:15 pm 
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I have a winch attached to my mast support. Here is how I do it:

Attach the halyard shackle to the downhaul cleat.

Tie an extra line to the rope end of the halyard.

Feed this extra line through the top of the winch, mine has a nice bar across the top of the winch. If you don't have a winch, attach a block permanently to your mast support.

Feed the end of this line from the winch to the roller furler cleat for the turbo jib. (If you don't have a turbo, put it through the mast rake cleat on the front cross bar.)

Put a knot in the end of the line so it doesn't slip out.

Step the mast with the mast kit sold from Hobie.

While holding the must up against the shrouds, reach down and tighten the halyard line and cleat it tightly in the cleat. Pull it tight and cleat it really well.

The mast is now up and supported by the halyard through the winch and cleated to the cross bar.

Walk around to the bridle and attach the forestay. Once secure, remove the mast step pin and then remove the extra line from the halyard.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 6:37 am 
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Joined: Fri Jan 22, 2010 4:38 pm
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Location: Pittsboro NC
Permanent line attached to the mast tang that is as long as the lower holes on the forestay adjuster. Small shackle on the end to attach whilst sailing. Second line runs to block tied to trailer that attaches to the line from the tang when raising and lowering mast. Run the tailend through the furler jam cleat and raise mast. tighten line and Lock line into cleat, climb down attach forestay, undo two lines and quick attach shackle to forstay adjuster - Done! Reverse for unstepping. ****always make sure the pin is in mast base*******

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2012 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:30 pm
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Location: Redondo Beach, CA
drummer63 wrote:
Permanent line attached to the mast tang that is as long as the lower holes on the forestay adjuster. Small shackle on the end to attach whilst sailing. Second line runs to block tied to trailer that attaches to the line from the tang when raising and lowering mast. Run the tailend through the furler jam cleat and raise mast. tighten line and Lock line into cleat, climb down attach forestay, undo two lines and quick attach shackle to forstay adjuster - Done! Reverse for unstepping. ****always make sure the pin is in mast base*******


Ditto. The only difference is that for the furling line, I installed a cam cleat instead of the original clam cleat I had, so I run it under the front cross bar, before the first tramp lacing, and then up to a jam cleat on the mast itself. I leave the side stays attached at my most commonly used tension, and just bundle them up for trailering, with the mast on the mast cradle. When I first started sailing my Hobie 14T, that change alone on mast raising allowed me to save 10-15 minutes compared to using the durn mast stepping device on my 16. The hardest part is remembering to make sure I have my furler drum properly prewound.

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'83 H14T - "The Abominable Snowman"
'98 Windrider 16


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