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PostPosted: Sat Jun 26, 2010 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 8:17 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Atlantic Highlands NJ, NYC area
That's a nice piece of custom work. Alas I'm no welder. I'm stuck with off-the-shelf.

So, anybody out there who's bought a Cheata in the last year or so... does it really and truly fit the Getaway's rear crossbar? No hacking/filing/improvising? And once on, it doesn't interfere with other stuff? etc.

Also opinions on install-it-yourself, vs have my local dealer do it?

thanks,
Mark


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 27, 2010 4:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Jan 23, 2010 12:20 am
Posts: 16
Location: Down under
Hi Mark, I sent you a reply to your email, did you get it ok? if not it may be in your junk box, regards 'the ferret'

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Faster Faster Faster, oops!!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 4:14 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:02 pm
Posts: 737
Location: Rockford, IL
I just got a Hobie Getaway with the Cheata mount and Torqeedo 1003. I sail it on Lake Michigan, and I find I have to turn the motor sideways to clear the tiller bar when the mount is in the UP position.
But the motor doesn’t sit very high; so when the lake is even a little rough, the skeg and prop keep hitting the water and the motor is lifted up, and dropped back down. I’m afraid this is going to damage something from the constant pounding.
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, did you find a solution?
Thanks!
Bob Peterson

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:55 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:02 pm
Posts: 737
Location: Rockford, IL
Here's a followup-the owner of Cheeta mounts emailed me and invited me to phone him, so we chatted. Talk about great customer service! He had some very good advice for me.
I replaced the aluminum pin (which bent because of some heavy pounding) with a stainless bolt. I bungee the arm of the Cheeta down flat, and I use the Torqeedo's mount to hold the motor raised. I bungee the tiller of the motor to hold the motor horizontal. This gives enough clearance to prevent having the skeg hit waves and kick up. Only takes a few seconds for me to remove the tiller bungee and swivel the motor into the water.
I really like the Torqeedo motor-it's pricy, but not having to worry about gasoline and having it instantly turn on is worth it to me.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:25 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2017 5:20 pm
Posts: 1
Hi "the ferret"

I was wondering if I could buy one of your getaway motor mounts if you are still making them?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:08 am 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:02 pm
Posts: 737
Location: Rockford, IL
doncmn wrote:
Hi "the ferret"

I was wondering if I could buy one of your getaway motor mounts if you are still making them?

Thanks


Here's some information about motor mounts you might find interesting:

Here's a link to the Cheata motor mount.
https://www.murrays.com/product/13-110/

I replaced my Cheata mount with a homemade one, designed by KeithB. It doesn't splash as much, it's much cheaper and I think it looks nicer than the Cheata. Sorry, but I already sold my Cheata mount.
https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=57851

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 30, 2017 4:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 04, 2014 1:30 pm
Posts: 984
Location: Benicia, CA
I use the Cheata with my Honda 2.3. It does fit onto the rear crossbar BUT it is easier to mount if you offset it from the centerline so you don't have to fiddle with the traveler and all that stuff there already. ALSO, when fitted the mount will pretty close to drown your motor if two people are aft (one person has to be aft to control the motor and steer). I "fixed" that by putting a taller mounting board instead of the one that comes with the Cheata (use bolts, not screws for safety). Finally, after a couple years of use, the original Cheata block swivel bent (it was aluminum); I contacted Cheata and he sent me a better stainless one. I do recommend you make one like Keith B. did (he has the parts list and everything posted here somewhere). Reason being that the Cheata base plate splashes water onto the head of the outboard...not an issue if your gas cap is sealed correctly, but...another reason is that you need one "HONKIN'" pop rivet tool to make those stainless pop rivets hold.

I haven't changed mine to Keith's design because I need the articulating arm since I don't demount the engine for trailering--instead I suspend the motor from the rear mast rest that I had welded to my trailer.

Just fyi, I used my Honda yesterday for probably the longest motoring I've done...the wind died with me 4 miles from home and trying to go against the current. Worked well and was stingy with gas, something I was surprised by.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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