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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:12 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2006 1:03 am
Posts: 30
Location: New Zealand
Anyone else have this problem? From time to time the jibsheet catches on the front mast cleat where the main halyard is tied off. Damn pain.

Would it be a problem to remove the forward mast cleat and put it on the back of the mast, or even just remove it and tie the halyard off on the downhaul cleat? Surely so long as the metal clip on the halyard to locked into the slot near the top of the mast this would not be a problem???

:?:

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Hobie 14 Turbo, based in Marlborough Sounds, New Zealand


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 23, 2005 9:09 am
Posts: 91
Location: UK
I have this problem as well. It can be really irritating. I found that the best way to stop this happening was to tension the loose sheet before trying to release the other sheet. This seems to prevent it catching as there is less loose line around.


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 Post subject: Cleat Fix
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 6:26 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 11, 2006 11:29 am
Posts: 93
Location: FL Panhandle; Western MD; Mandeville, LA
I adapted a stretchable knee brace with positionable velcro for the situation. When everything's set and I'm ready to go, I wrap the knee brace over the cleat and around the mast. It's "Easy On & Easy Off".

This "sheet catching" problem didn't happen each tack, but often enough that it was annoying - and warranted this inexpensive and easy "fix"...


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 Post subject: Snagging jib sheets
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
On H18's, what we do to avoid the jib sheet snagging in the base of the mast, is to tie a bungee cord from the one end of the front cross bar, diagonally up to the bottom of the diamond wires, then down diagonally to the other end of the front cross bar. (Or dolphin striker, which ever works best for you.)

Of course, when rigging the jib sheets, make sure they are laid on top of this bungee pyramid. While H14's have no diamond wires, I am sure you can rig some form of attachment to achieve the same effect.

Happy Holidays and good winds.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 24, 2007 7:26 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 12:28 pm
Posts: 14
Here is what I did to my son's turbo...

1. Eliminated the top/bottom horns on the front cleat and then attach a bungee line between the cleat the the forestay extender. (keeps the jib lines away from the mast base as they come across, an alternative to the crossbar bungee method which work well also).

2. Installed a new cleat on the side of the mast (similar to a Hobie 16).

3. Installed a jib halyard line cleat hook (similar to a Hobie 16) mid-way up on the side of the mast. Retains the line along the same side of the mast as the new cleat.

Hang up problems gone and a nice clean installation like the H16.

Sail fast, Tom G


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 26, 2007 5:45 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 27, 2005 11:27 am
Posts: 538
Location: League City, TX
Guys:

What I have done on my 17 with reacher (blocks are 18" off rear crossbar on tramp tracks) is run a piece of bungee from corner of front crossbar up to a loop type connector attached to front of mast about 3 feet up and back to other side of crossbar. This keeps the sheets away from mast and works fine.

Hope this helps.

Doug


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 6:25 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Oct 29, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 6
Location: Brisbane, Australia
Reckon the knee brace idea (above) or similar approach is the simplest and the best...I just cut of the leg of an old wetsuit -- slide it on before stepping, then roll it down a bit while rigging, then roll up over the cleat and the loose halyard.

Have fun, that is, if your not already...

Simon
(14T, late 70s)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 9:32 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Apr 11, 2004 12:28 pm
Posts: 14
Do address the other hang up point at the mast base. Downright scary to tack in high winds only to see your jib backwinded and the sheet snagged in the mast base. Bitchin' to get it to release at that point.

Sail fast, Tom G


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 6:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Jul 07, 2012 7:31 am
Posts: 1
I have a 14T and recently have been using a cross of gaffer's tape on the halyard cleat. I store the halyard coil secured to the dolphin-striker with the same short piece of cord I use to secure the jib on the beach.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 10:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 17, 2012 4:32 am
Posts: 25
Location: Lake Eden, Vermont
One day when I have a boat with more than 1 sail this information is going to be super valuable. Wish I could give some input!

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 7:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jun 21, 2012 10:24 pm
Posts: 32
I just added a turbo setup to mine and I have been having both problems mentioned here. This is great info!!


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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 07, 2012 6:41 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 29, 2010 2:52 pm
Posts: 169
Location: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
H17racer wrote:
Here is what I did to my son's turbo...

1. Eliminated the top/bottom horns on the front cleat and then attach a bungee line between the cleat the the forestay extender. (keeps the jib lines away from the mast base as they come across, an alternative to the crossbar bungee method which work well also).

2. Installed a new cleat on the side of the mast (similar to a Hobie 16).

3. Installed a jib halyard line cleat hook (similar to a Hobie 16) mid-way up on the side of the mast. Retains the line along the same side of the mast as the new cleat.

Hang up problems gone and a nice clean installation like the H16.

Sail fast, Tom G


Hi Tom...

It would be awesome if you could post a picture at some point...

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