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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 2:47 pm 
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Location: Amelia Island, FL
After looking at the Hobie Cradles yesterday, I have convinced myself (and billfold) that the pvc pipe method is the way to go. Most of the pictures/videos are all showing the PA 14. I'm trying to determine what length of pvc pipe I need for the PA 12. Am I correct that the only required length is what would be that actually touching the bottom of the PA?

Would also like to know the grade pvc used. Was it grade 20 or 40? This would impact the flex of the pipe and would also the structural integrity of the pvc pipe which is poor at best. Thinking the 40, which is thicker, would be better.

Appreciate any feedback I can get. Thanks in advance.

Jerry


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2012 3:35 pm 
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We used schedule 40. We used 2-inch diameter because we wanted enough flexibility that the pipe would tend to conform to the hull shape, instead of the other way around. Lengthwise, the fore and aft areas of the pipe don't contact the hull. We made the pipes a tad longer than what would actually contact the hull to facilitate getting the boat on and off the trailer. How long your pipe needs to be will depend a great deal on the type and style trailer you have.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 11:07 am 
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I used 2" PVC conduit - the gray pipe - as it is UV resistant. The white PVC is not and will get brittle after a couple years exposure to the sun. That's a while, but you may forget about it and then, when you least expect it.......
I trailer my PA-14 so the pipe is about 7' long, the extra length facilitates loading/unloading the kayak. PVC is on 10.5" centers and the thing that made me change from carpeted bunks was the kayak goes straight on or off the trailer with the PVC, it tended to slide around on the bunks.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 31, 2012 4:05 pm 
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bruce19365 wrote:
I used 2" PVC conduit - the gray pipe - as it is UV resistant. The white PVC is not and will get brittle after a couple years exposure to the sun. That's a while, but you may forget about it and then, when you least expect it.......
I trailer my PA-14 so the pipe is about 7' long, the extra length facilitates loading/unloading the kayak. PVC is on 10.5" centers and the thing that made me change from carpeted bunks was the kayak goes straight on or off the trailer with the PVC, it tended to slide around on the bunks.


Bruce I was going to use 3" PVC and was told to space it at 11.5! thanks for letting me know how long 7' and to use the Conduit but will the 3 at 11.5 work because of the difference it the size of the pipe?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:20 am 
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Used 4 inch for my pa 14 as 2 or 3 inch did not keep the hull above the crossbars of the trailer. 6 feet long is enough for contact but a bit longer gives room for movement. I would definately carpet the tops, slides much better and doesn't scratch. I didn't have carpet for the first year and put the carpet on, much nicer.

I also put a piece of 4 inch pool noodle in to give support, especially where the pipe attaches to the trailer.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:13 am 
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If the pipe won't flex to conform to the hull shape, then the reason for using it is missed.

Whatever you use, type, size, etc., make sure the pipe flexes to match the hull shape. That was the whole idea - to have something that formed to the hull, rather than the other way around.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 4:53 pm 
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Tom, does your 2" pipe allow the PA to clear the crossbars? Is this a problem???


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:34 pm 
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No it's not a problem.

Depending on how you set yours up, if bow hits when it comes across you just lift a little and once past it the boat will sit above the crossbar/s.

There's all sorts of ways to mount the pipe to the crossbars to get more height, if that's what you need.


Last edited by Tom Kirkman on Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:24 pm 
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Been wanting to put carpet on the PVC. Can someone give me an idea of what to use to keep the carpet on them? Many thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Tom, another quick question.... How far apart are your crossbars? I know you have a 14 while I have a 12. Same as the distance recommended for the cradles???


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 02, 2012 11:54 pm 
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I used 4" black abs drain pipe for two reasons, one reason is that the 4" pipe allowed me to get my hand inside the pipe to tighten the u-bolts I used to secure the pipes to the mounting bars and second reason is to get the PA up and away from the mounting bars.
Image

Image


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:17 am 
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No, our crossbars are further apart because we wanted the pipe to flex. That was the whole point around why we brought this pipe idea to life - to have something that would flex and conform to the hull. In fact, our first idea was to use lengthwise nylon straps.

Look at Atavuss's photos above (not a knock on his set up) and you see that his pipe isn't flexed to match the hull. It can't match the hull shape because it has too much support and the pipe is too large in diameter.

Now having said that, I'm not knocking these other setups, just mentioning why we introduced the pipe support concept and what we were trying to achieve by using it in the first place.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 7:33 am 
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While the 4" pipe I use may not flex enough to fully form to the PA hull it is far better than the 6 Yakima Mako saddles I used before. I no longer have 6 dents in the hull from the saddles. Good enough for me!


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 9:27 am 
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Location: Lafayette, LA
I have used 2" schedule 40 PVC on my trailer for most of this year and have had excellent results. However, I would recommend a different measuring system rather than using a set distance between the rails. I placed my two PVC pipes side by side on the trailer approximately where they would be mounted. With help, I placed the boat on the pipes before they were mounted. They settled nicely and adjusted the correct distance between the rails automatically. Just mark the location of the pipes so you know if they move, slide the boat forward to mount the rear ends of the pipes, then reverse the procedure to mount the forward ends (or vice versa). This procedure will place the pipes the exact distance your boat requires. It should be noted that the PA12 and PA14 require slightly different distances between the rails.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 10:15 am 
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Absolutely. The scupper trough is the stiffest part of the hull.

Plastic boats should never be supported crosswise, although that seems to be standard operating procedure.

...............


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