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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:41 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:25 am
Posts: 1
Dolphin striker rod snapped in half so trying to remove and replace. Older boat, removed nuts but rod won't turn at all and seems to be seized to both left and right corner castings. Are the castings threaded? Any ideas on how to get the rod out of the casting? Thx


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 4:22 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2007 11:23 am
Posts: 599
Location: Lake Norman NC
no the castings are not threaded if you can remove the nuts on the dolphin striker do so a good penerating oil might help
Just remember that the rod is bent in all kinda of angles which makes removal hard
What shape is the mast base and does it need to be replaced if so remove it also
Former Hobie Admiral Gary


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 5:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5197
Location: Detroit, MI
The rod is corroded to the castings.

Mild heat and persuasion (hammer) are called for here. Be careful - the castings are brittle.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 12:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:43 am
Posts: 779
Location: St. Louis, MO
When I separate corroded SS and aluminum I use MAPP gas and heat the SS. The aluminum castings do not tolerate it as well and you need to be more careful if you go this route. Also aluminum transfers heat faster than SS. Alternating heat and penetrating oil works for serious cases. Give the oil time to settle in before applying a flame to it. If you can find it use AeroKroil, if not PB Blaster is good choice.

When using mechanical persuasion (a hammer) either use a dead blow hammer or use a piece of wood between a small sledge or carpenters hammer and the metal.

_________________
Nick

Current Boat
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'74 Pearson 30
'84 H16
'82 H18 Magnum
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:32 am
Posts: 424
Location: Lake Gaston, NC
I'd think about cutting the rod close to the castings, center punching, and very carefully drilling out the rod remnants with successively larger sizes of sharp cobalt drill bits. Once the rod is almost completely drilled out with only small rings left, the right sized pin punch should finish it off without having to drill with the last size bit that matches the complete size of the rod. Since the ss is much harder than the surrounding aluminum, this will require a steady hand, and probably a good amount of experience using tools.

Grind the cut end of the rod flush and square, and very carefully position the center punch.

I don't think the castings will take too much beating on, or torque before yielding.

I remember doing this once a long time ago, but the guy ended up replacing the corner castings some time later, because they were pretty wallowed out anyway.


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