Hobie Cat Forums

Think I may have figured out why folks are giving different distances between the two PVC pipes.

After mounting my crossbars, I laid the two 10 foot 2" schedule 40 pipes lengthwise. I did not attach either of the pipes to the crossbar.

Having a hoist system to store my PA 12, I slowly lowered the PA down onto the PVC pipes, letting it settle naturally on the pipe. I discovered that at the front of the PA, the spacing between is 10.5" centered while the rear was 12" centered.

So it looks like everyone is correct

I am also considering putting slots rather than a round drill hole where I attach the pipes to the crossbar. This will allow the pipe to straighten when the PA is not on the trailer. When I do have it on the trailer the pipe will be allowed to "move" to allow for the form fitting bend that occurs.

That's exactly how we did it on the original version - The idea was to allow the pipe to "move" in order to accommodate the varying width and depth of the hull scupper trough. I believe I pointed all this out in the original post, although that's going back a couple years.

Tom, did you mount the pipe to your crossbars so that it could "move"?

Yes, that was the whole point. If the pipes can't move, then they can't conform to the hull scupper trough shape - those aren't straight nor the same depth all along their lengths.

OK, I used 2" PVC at the back end, with 1-1/2" PVC at the front end, inserted inside the 2" to provide a telescoping arrangement. This allows the overall length of the support to change as the tubes flex to accommodate the hull shape. Worked fine on a 100 mile maiden voyage. I temporarily used metal straps that go around the outside of the PVC tubes, bolted to the front and rear 2x4 crossbar lifts. Now I need to find a permanent mounting solution for attaching the PVC to the 2x4's, because the metal straps scratch the hull when unloading. A single bolt through the bottom of the PVC into the 2x4 may not keep the tubes from "rolling", as loading and unloading will put some lateral force on the tubes. On the other hand, scalloping the top of the 2x4's so that the tubes sit in a slightly recessed area would address that, but then the 2" overall tube diameter is not sufficient to get the side "pontoons" of the PA up off the rear 2x4, defeating the easy-slide feature and distributed load. I am thinking of just keeping the metal straps, and carpeting over the whole thing except for the 3" or so that actually telescope. Other ideas?

Ours are bolted from the bottom, only. They don't "roll" under any circumstance.

Can also be used for storage if you cap the ends

I use a similar method on the roof rack of my '96 Jeep Cherokee. The pipe makes excellent rod holders for those times when you might want to quickly scout a launch for bite.

I bought 3" #40 PVC pipe in 5ft lengths. I plan to notch the pipe about 2 inches wide and maybe 1.5 inches deep for my Yakima racks and to slip over my sawhorses I keep it stored on.

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Sandy
Panama City Kayak Fishing Assn

I like the PVC support method way more then hull denting cradles. I just recently finished a removable set for my trailer. Added a wheel to the back that makes unloading and loading my AI directly into the water very easy.

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The flaps keep the amas off the hull for transport.

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I found this 3/8 thick mat from recycled tires at a local Tractor Supply that works great as a platform covering. The leftovers make for handy mud flaps

Well done. When we started working on this style kayak support a couple/three years ago, it only made sense to us to support the boats lengthwise rather than crosswise. I'm glad to see how it's taken off and hope Hobie might take a look at the concept and perhaps offer some form fitted lengthwise supports similar to what they currently offer in crosswise supports.

By the way, I like what you did for the Ama supports. I didn't see them at first and thought it might be tough on the Aka supports, but now I see you have that covered. Nicely done.

Thanks Tom.

There was some trial and error involved, so I just kept added more layers of the rubber mat under the back pipe brackets to elevate the hull so there is no overload on the amas and akas.

Here's another photo.
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Ever since I saw your idea for a pvc cradle, I knew that was the way to go.

We just bought 2 PA 14 and added the 2" PVC to the trailer for towing. Thanks to all for the great idea. It worked great

Nature Coast florida

Tom ..... Looks like we had the same Idea about the same time .......... I used 3" PVC for storage supports a little over 3 years ago. gave better support and kept the PA off of the ground.

Just finished a dual PA trailer and used the 3" PVC pipe with screw in caps so I can use the pipes for storage. I take the reels off of the rods and put the rods in the PVC tubes .......... can get up to 6 casting in each ........ 3 from each end. in another I keep bearings, grease, folding lug wrench and tools.

Man, that is easily one of the best trailers I have seen ever for a kayak. You should post it on "post my trailer" on TexasKayakFisherman.com

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It's not the heat it's the humility!!!
Hobie Pro Angler