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 Post subject: Trolling Motor on i12
PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2012 5:16 am 
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Has anyone ever tried to put a trolling motor on a i12, I am talking about a small 18 lb WateSnake trolling motor and a small 25 lb. battery, any ideas?? Take care ----Frank


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2012 9:10 pm 
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Hi Frank,

I gave this some thought recently myself. Seems you either modify a mirage cassette or side mount. Sure you reached the same conclusions.

Biggest problem with the cassette is you need to install the motor AFTER launch/BEFORE landing. Also, if you want to switch to mirage powe, removing & stowing the motor will be a pain.

My best guess at a side mount is to add (2) accessory holders w/ Scotty bases either side behind the seat. Make posts that support a cross bar at the desired height & lock into the Scotty bases. Might be able to work something with RAM or Scotty fittings. I'd want the motor to be able to tilt up/down enough to clear the bottom of the boat for launch/landing/shallows/clearing the prop. Also would want the battery to be part of the assembly to make it simpler to install & possibly act as a counter weight fir the motor. Another problem is carrying an extra 50 odd pounds around.

This is why the Hobie version of the Torqueedo is such an elegant solution. If only it didn't cost more than the boat!


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 2:02 pm 
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Thanks Gas Yakker, I was thinking on the same line, like a 2x4 behind back of seat, attached to some kind of glue on attachment, some hook-up using seat straps, fun to think about, draw back you have to register the kayak because of the motor. Take care----Frank


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:38 pm 
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Depending where you live registration may not be a big deal. In Maryland it's $2 for boats under 16' & no excise tax.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 8:42 am 
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Gasyakker, here is my plan for i12 Hobie trolling motor, starting with two Hobie tri-ring patches in sage to match the color of my i12, on each side right be handed the seat, run a 2x4 From side to side, a 3in x 4in. X1/2in. Piece of oak between the tri-rings attached to the 2x4, run eye bolts with eye opened up to hook onto tri-rings through 2x4 tighten by wingnut to each tri-ring to add tension on each side, also run eye bolt on each side through top edge of 2x4 to Hobie factory black clite down on the side of each side tube, maybe some seat adjustment straps to 2x4, put trollig motor on paddle holder side and rod holders to other side, will put this plan together when I go to Fotr Myers Beach, that is where I have my i12 at in my condo. What do you think of that plan, will let you know how it works out. Take care------Frank


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2012 9:14 pm 
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I like the idea of attaching back to additional tankwell cleats/d-rings to stiffen the frame & distribute the load to additional hard points. I'd consider doing this with something rigid rather than straps, if I'm understanding your description correctly. Maybe PVC pipes? Could notch ends to fit over cleats & use wing nuts thru the cleat.

I'd be a little concerned with relying on hooks & straps to tighten everything up. Seems like the motor stresses and natural tendency of the boat to flex & swell/deflate would loosen things up. Everything is much more dynamic on inflatables than on the rotomold boats!

My biggest concern with any trolling motor setup is having some kind of killswitch. If you get dumped you don't want to have the boat run away, or worse yet come back at you! Could also get dragged if you get hung up. Look at the Ocean Kayak Torque for an example of a killswitch you could emulate.

Good luck!


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 9:20 am 
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Gas yakker, you said about using PVC and notch the ends to fit over cleats and using wingnut, could you explain in more detail about it, would like to know more about that idea. Thanks. Take care----Frank


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 6:57 pm 
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Hi Frank,

This is a little complicated to explain & I'm revising my thinking as I go along, so bear with me :) ...

Basically, span from near each end of the cross-piece behind the seat, 2x4 or whatever, to the side cleats. My suggestion is to use (2) PVC pipes, probably 3/4". You'd want to keep the pipes inside the gunnels & clear of the tankwell - basically they need to span above the side air cells.

You could insert small D-shackles through the holes in the top of the cleats. Cut/drill-out a notch in the PVC pipe to fit over the shackle. Drill a hole through the pipe perpendicular to the notch so you can then put the pipe over the shackle & secure it with carabiners or wing nuts. Attach the other end of the pipe to the cross-piece as you see fit, maybe drill a hole through the end of the pipe to recieve a hook?

Complicated...


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