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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 4:19 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Thanks Paul and John.
It's probably a 3/4" thread, though I'd be taking a plug to a bolt supplier and trying it in a nut first.
I checked the seat peg hole walls from inside to see if they felt strong and uniform before tapping. There have been reports of thinner walls and cracks in some kayaks. I figured if it split I'd glue it in.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2012 11:59 pm 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
Well done Stringy. Top mod and well explained. I haven't had any issues with my expanding wedge type yet. It may be just the luck of the draw. But if/when I do, I know who to come too.

I'm back on deck now after my 6 weeks away, so if any trips are being planned, I'll be be be loitering around this site on on my mobile.

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Don't take life too seriously................it ain't permanent.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 2:35 pm 
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Welcome back mate. Funny but after doing the TI I went to do the AI and I couldn't get the seat out! :roll: So I left it. I've noticed that since I stopped removing the seat after each trip the wedges held better on the AI.
If you want to convert let me know and I'll throw the bolt in next trip we do. It's a fix you could do just before going out.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 03, 2012 8:19 pm 
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I understand that Hobie a producing an upgrade kit. Not sure when it will be available? and not sure what will be in the kit!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2012 4:00 pm 
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Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Stringy,

I just instaled the parts. The screw-in plugs are 3/4-10 which is 3/4" and 10 threads per inch. As the tap was hard to find, I bought a bolt and made a tap out of it as you did. I ended up using my dremel to cut the notches even though it looked like you used a hacksaw. The dremel was handy, and the hacksaw needs a new blade, With the bolt in a vice it was easy to put six notches in a hex headed bolt.

I had purchased a 3" long bolt to make it easier to hand start, and carefully ran it all the way to the bottom. As the plug's threads are not a "sharp" as the bolts (I can't recall the correct technical term) it is a nice snug fit. Using a large screwdriver I was able to get the plugs in until they were flush. I'd tried using a new peg to screw the plugs in, but when it started bending I switched to the screwdriver.

As snug as they are I didn't bother gluing them in place. A quick change of the pegs, and getting the seats in and out is now quick and painless. We will be testing them out in a little over a week and I'll let you know how well they stay in.

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2011 Papaya Oasis.
We can usually be seen either in the Lynnhaven Inlet or just North of Cape Charles.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 2:32 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
I'm glad it worked for you John. Thanks for the correct bolt thread details. That will help others who might wish to do this easy upgrade. The M20 thread I used was a bit loose which is why I needed the sealant. It's been holding up well though. BTW -I used an air die grinder to cut the grooves in the bolt.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 8:15 am 
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Location: Lexington, NC
This is a great idea! I did this this weekend. I will add one thing, it is important to mesure the depth of the seat peg holes and mark that on the tapping bolt so as not to punch through the bottom. The depth of the holes can vary from one Hobie to the next too.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2012 9:11 pm 
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
This is great information guys.
I was contemplating a stainless plate, about 50mm dia, bolted through to a plate underneath, with a keyway cut in for a positive seat anchor. Your solution seems much easier. I will be interested to hear how the screw in holds up in the long term.

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Tandem Island -
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 6:36 pm 
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Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
sun E sailor wrote:
Stringy,

Brilliant!
I just wanted to acknowledge you for your perseverance and ingenuity in designing this "tap"; you are very clever :wink: .
(Just be carefull, I can hear thinking..."Hummm, now what else can I tap and thread on my boat?") :lol: .

Also for the contributions of the other members regarding various glues and epoxies. I'll keep a copy of this article in my "how to fix" folder. Good work everyone!

If I were still using my old seats I would definitely go this route to install the new "twist and lock pegs".

Stringy
Just want to echo Sun e Sailor's thanks for sharing all your experience doing this mod - including clear explanations and photos.
I must be so far out of touch I didn't even know the seat posts had been changed again!! The bayonet fittings certainly look a vast improvement.
I presume the latest model boats now come with these.
Almost worth upgrading :roll: :o :lol:

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2011 AI Golden Papaya



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 10:10 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
I've never had any issues with the 'expanding' pegs on my 2009 Revo and 2011 A.I., but after a couple of trips on the A.I. I was very unhappy with the standard seating positions - mainly due to the pool of water you end up sitting in.

So I went for a skipper seat conversion - the best thing you can do to an A.I. in my opinion. Sure you'll still get sprayed, but at least you don't end up sitting in a bowl of arse-stew for the duration of the trip!

Mike.


Last edited by mingle on Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:21 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 11:47 pm 
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Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
mingle wrote:
I've never had any issues with the 'expanding' pegs on my 2009 Revo and 2011 A.I., but after a couple of trips on the A.I. I was very unhappy with the standard seating positions - mainly due to the pool of water you end up sitting in.

So I went for a skipper seat conversion - the best thing you can do to an A.I. in my opinion. Sure you'll still get sprayed, but at least you don't end up sitting in a bowl or arse-stew for the duration of the trip!

Mike.

Mingle - i already have this on my AI. Mine sits on a custom-made metal base and is very secure and keeps me high and dry. I call it my winter seat. In summer I really don't mind being a bit wet - so I tend to swap between the two depending on circumstances. I recently went on a four day camping trip with my mates and decided to switch back to the original seat, partly because of the weather conditions and partly because there is a substantial increase in weight using my skipper seat.

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2011 AI Golden Papaya



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 12:31 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
If I ever take the bare Adventure hull out on the water (I haven't yet), I'd have to go with the standard Hobie seat, as the skipper seat sits a bit too high:

This is v0.4 of my seat mount and is working very well...

Image

Although the photos make it look like it's reclining a lot, the position is pretty much perfect. The whole lot is a shade under 4kgs, so weight isn't really an issue.

Cheers,

Mike.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 24, 2013 11:41 pm 
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Location: Gippsland Lakes Victoria Australia
Steve Fields wrote:
stringy wrote:
No.
Nothing from Hobie, hence this thread.



Stringy,
we have had these in stock for sometime. please email me the dealer and person you are working with. You have my email address.

Regards

Steve


Just spoke to a dealer with the intention of ordering these kits for my 2011 AI & TI but he strongly advised me not to as they are not a retro fit and he claims for every successful mod, there is a failure resulting in irrepearable damage :o :shock:

So I am now up in the air as to whether to proceed.

He mentioned the Skipper Seat mod - which I already have on my AI using a customised metal plate. However I am not totally happy with all the additional weight - nor the added height.
I am hoping Hobie will change the seat to one I saw that is standard on Native Watercraft Kayaks. It's extremely light, provides proper back support and is very quick drying.

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2011 AI Golden Papaya



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 1:43 am 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Mickey,
I think your dealer is being a bit dramatic.
I guess it depends on how happy you are with how the old expanding seat pegs are holding. Ours were always popping out so the upgrade was a no brainer. To me the risk of damage to the seat peg recess was worth it. If it did get damaged a fix would be easy, using an internal epoxy filled cap.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 25, 2013 7:28 am 
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Location: Delaware Coast
mickeymouse wrote:
Just spoke to a dealer with the intention of ordering these kits for my 2011 AI & TI but he strongly advised me not to as they are not a retro fit and he claims for every successful mod, there is a failure resulting in irrepearable damage :o :shock:

There is NO WAY that my method can damage your boat.

I like Stringy's method, but given mine are still holding after over a year, I would use my method again just because it's risk free.


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