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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2012 1:37 pm 
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Location: OHIO
I have read the posts regarding changing from springs to bungee or adding a control line to hold them down.

Has anyone recently purchased new springs or successfully had springs made for the centerboards or had success with alternatives that still allow kick-up of the blades.

I like the ability of my boards to kick up.

Mark


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 10:18 pm 
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I had a friend (pro spring maker) make the springs and was able to replace them in 20 minutes on one side. I had installed bungees on the other side. The springs worked better so I will be replacing the bungees.
Just raise the hull you are working on enough to get the CB out. Tape the springs (with a spacer) to a 3' stick and push it up into the CB case. With a powerful flashlight you can see what you are doing. Have a helper put the bolt at the top into the hole a little way and you can slip the spring with spacer over the bolt.

Bob


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 5:34 am 
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Location: OHIO
Thanks Bob,
I had decided to have them made by a spring maker. Your install technique sounds easier than that described in the manual of turning the boat over.

Do you have any notes from when you did this as to the dimensions (length-relaxed and extended), number of coils, ID, OD, size of the spring wire, and what material (spring steel, stainless, hard drawn, oil tempered) was used to make the new springs?
If your friend wants to make more forward their info to me.

Thank you for any input you might have,

Mark


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2012 10:22 am 
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weis90 wrote:
...
If your friend wants to make more forward their info to me.

...

Mark


I'm in for a set also !!

Bille


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 16, 2012 12:58 am 
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Sorry guys, I don't have the info on the specs of the springs. I just gave an old broken spring to my friend. He did all the measuring and made the springs. I'll ask if he is interested in making more. Also these springs are still available (at least here in Germany, don't know if they are available in backwaters :mrgreen: ).

Bob


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2012 11:55 am 
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Location: San Diego, CA
If the springs in the SE are the same as in the SC, I have a pair that came with the boat and I never used. (I'm the guy who replaced them with a control line after changing one of the springs.)

I have no idea how much they go for, make me an offer.

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Practice makes perfect, so be careful what you practice...


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2012 11:11 am 
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McGyver
Could you post a picture of how Ya did that with the control line ?

Bille


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2012 12:08 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
https://plus.google.com/photos/11191008 ... 0736430193

I run a line from where the spring is attached to the centerboard, through a hole on the deck, to a cleat. Make the hole way back in the centerboard well so that it will pull the board all the way down and slant the hole so the line runs free.

Replacing the lines is a cinch compared to replacing a bungee or, God forbid, the springs. Just remember to release them before beaching the boat. Probably a cam cleat would be a better option than the clam cleats I used, since there will be no risk of the line cleating itself.

Cheers!

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Practice makes perfect, so be careful what you practice...


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2012 10:39 am 
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McGyver wrote:
https://plus.google.com/photos/111910083619489795875/albums/5221446820736430193

I run a line from where the spring is attached to the centerboard, through a hole on the deck, to a cleat. ...

Cheers!


No Wonder they call you McGyver !!!

Do you think the cord could be replaced with a rather stout bungee of
slightly larger diameter ; then the center-board would still retract if
ya hit a floating log in the water ?

How well would a bungee hold up to a cam cleat ??
And thanks for the "Great" idea !!!!!!!!!

Bille


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 26, 2012 9:40 pm 
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Location: San Diego, CA
Thanks for the compliment, Billie!

I originally thought of a bungee doing the same job as the spring, with just the advantage of having some kind of hook on one end, that would allow to replace it without having to remove that inaccesible bolt at the aft end of the the centerboad well.

But I can think now of two different ways that would avoid that:

1) The cheap way, which would be to attach a bungee to the centerboard, run it through a slanted hole through the deck on the aft part of the centerboard well, over the deck to a hole near the hatch, through that hole and a knot at the end.

This would mean that you would have to drop the centerboard to attach the bungee, and there'll probably be some chafing at point where the bungee goes through the deck. You'll save on cleats, though.

2) A somewhat more expensive way would be to use those fittings for exiting halyards at the mast (I don't know the name), not the ones with sheaves, but the ones that provide a chafe-free route for the halyard. That would prevent the chafing and you'll be able to have a larger hole on the deck, so if you use a bungee with a hook at the end you'll be able to replace it without dropping the centerboard.

Hope this will help.

Ps: I guess having a bungee on the deck will make it slippery, at least until one gets used to it. But anything instead of dealing with that damn bolt!

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Practice makes perfect, so be careful what you practice...


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 12:09 am 
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OK folks, I will be talking to the "Spring" guy this weekend. As to "that damned bolt" I did not have a problem removing, first scraped off the silicon and then removed. My 75 year old mother and I replaced the spring in 20 minutes including jacking up the hull.

It will take you longer the first time as you need to figure it out but after that everything works.

And after trying the bungies (sp?) of different sizes the springs work better.

Bob


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2012 3:55 am 
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Location: San Diego, CA
When I posted asking for suggestions on how to change the springs, this was Matt Miller's response:

"All I can say is good luck on the spring replacement. It is difficult. "

Bob, I would love to know how you managed to make it easy. I assume you don't have an extra hatch near the centerboard well.

I don't know if trailers have different heights, but on mine I didn't have to jack up the hull to remove the centerboard, there was enough clearance below.

Cheers,

Jordi

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2012 2:18 am 
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McGyver wrote:
When I posted asking for suggestions on how to change the springs, this was Matt Miller's response:

"All I can say is good luck on the spring replacement. It is difficult. "

Bob, I would love to know how you managed to make it easy. I assume you don't have an extra hatch near the centerboard well.

I don't know if trailers have different heights, but on mine I didn't have to jack up the hull to remove the centerboard, there was enough clearance below.

Cheers,

Jordi




Jordi; and all!

It takes a helper!

On my trailer I have to lift one hull and have my helper put it on a sawhorse to remove the centerboard. I can do this by hand (or with my back) so it only takes a few seconds. I just lift from the stern.

Then I remove the centerboard pivot screws and the centerboard comes down. I don't have to remove the lifting rope but it makes handling the centerboard easier. If you need to replace the rope now is the time to do this.

The hardest part is dealing with the top spring retaining bolt from inside the hull. After numerous trials when I was going the “bungee" route I have figured this out. Get a small handed 13 year old cat sailor (one of my daughters) to remove the bolt. You may have to scrape the silicone from around the bolt first.

Attatch the new springs, with the spacer if you have one, or with a short piece of tubing that fits over the top spring retaing bolt to a length of wood or something. I used an old batten but almost anything will do. Use duct tape or other tape.

Attach the other end of the springs to the centerboard with the lifting line between the springs. Make sure you have a spacer.

Lift the centerboard as high and rearward into the centerboard slot as you can and block it there. Just leave enough space to get your stick with the springs attached up in there. Push the stick up at the same time as the centerboard so you are not twisting the springs off the stick. Lie on your back looking up into the centerboard well.

One of the big secrets! Use a strong light from the top inside the hull shining through the hole where the top bole goes. From the other side have your helper push the bolt into the top hole just enough to see the bolt from underneath(a flashlight from the bottom helps here) and using your stick push the spring spacer onto the bolt at the top. Have your helper run the bolt home and you are just about done. Make sure you have a rubber washer outside the top holes on both sides of the bolt and use a LITTLE silicon to seal. Don't over tighten the bolts here and squeeze all the silicon out. The aircraft nuts won't come out so they only need to be snug.

Twist the stick to get it off the spring/spacer (you did not use too much tape did you??)

Bring the front of the centerboard down into position without putting much tension on the springs, this take a little finesse, put the centerboard pivot pin into place and put the screws in to hold the centerboard in place.

Try to cycle the board and see that it works.

Put some silicon on the screws that hold the centerboard pivot pin (again a LITTLE silicon) and tighten them down.

Lower the boat and enjoy a beer!

I hope that is clearer than mud! It is not as hard as I make it sound.
Think this through and ask me question if you can't visualize this.

Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2012 10:39 pm 
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I have a friend who will make centerboard springs for the hobie 21, He has qouted me a price of 15$ per spring. He will make them from a better steel than what was used in the original. He made me a set in the summer and they work great. If you are interested in some let me know. I am located in Germany but can get them hand carried to the US and mailed from the US so shipping will be minimal.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 1:21 pm 
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Ok, the guy who made the centerboard springs for the hobie 21 has qouted me a price of 15$ per spring. He will make them from a better steel than what was used in the original. He made me a set in the summer and they work great. If you are interested in some let me know. I am located in Germany but can get them hand carried to the US and mailed from the US so shipping will be minimal.

If you want them I'll have them made and get them to the US on about the 8th of Dec. I'll put them in envelopes so they can be dropped at the PO. Once you get the springs you can send a check (including postage) to my mother who lives in Ohio. She can deposit the checks and she and I can square up when she is next in Germany.

So, you don't have to pay in advance, just send a check when you get them, you all are Hobie 21 owners and sailors so therefore trustful. (And most of us were probably Scouts at one time)
And if you get to Bavaria we can buy each other beers!
Bob


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