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 Post subject: purchasing a new hull
PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2012 12:41 pm 
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My outback has seen alot of use and i'm wondering if you can purchase the hull only... its a 2011 alot of bow and stern wear and wear from bach landings. all the hardware/ drive is in great shape


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 10:02 am 
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Should have used keel guards. I like the Keeleazy stuff. Can be replaced as needed.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 5:07 pm 
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A dealer can get you a hull only. There is no fixed price. The price would not be discounted by the retail price of the unused parts... the pricing on a kayak as a package is cheaper than the sum of parts.

We simply credit them for the seat, drive and paddle for a minimal credit, since we have to remove from the package... it is better if they do that from their own stock and re-sell the parts.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:23 pm 
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Curious to know how many dealers have done that?


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 10:35 am 
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We get the request several times a year... not sure how many dealers do it on their own.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 12:32 pm 
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I reached out to a few local dealers down by me for the same. Unfortunatly, the cost of a Hull only is onle a few $100 lower than the complete package. Youd be better off purchasing the complete package and selling the Mirage drive separate. I am currently awaiting a used one to pop up locally for a reasonable price.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 3:10 pm 
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That's what i figured, to bad. Hobie would make a ton more money if they offered hull only packages at much cheaper prices because i have talked to a ton of people who said they bought one but won't be buying another because it's not economically feasible.

The plastic is dirt cheap, it's all the work required in applying the other stuff and the mirage drive that's expensive.

The shipping is expensive so add that to the price of a hull only package but price it reasonably, not a few hundred off, that's no deal.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 3:51 pm 
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cnnashman wrote:
The plastic is dirt cheap, it's all the work required in applying the other stuff and the mirage drive that's expensive.


The material may be inexpensive, but mold costs, oven costs, gas, labor, parts assembly... it all adds up.

I will look at the hull only option again this winter.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 4:16 pm 
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I understand when you are designing a new kayak and the mold costs inviolved, i wasn't referring to that. What i was referring to is just using the existing molds for the Outback, Revo etc.. and just baking the basic hull with zero parts installation, leave that up to the customer.

Let them use the existing hatches and transfer them to the new hull and they can even install the clic n go to the drivewell with just some basic instructions. Take out the clic n go of their old kayak and reinstall (it's not difficult to remove them)

Now the routing of the lines inside the hull could end up being an issue but i'm sure that can be figured out as well. The hatches should be very simple.

Just some thoughts, i would like to here what others think about it and thanks for looking into it over the winter.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 27, 2012 4:27 pm 
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RangerFred :
All may not be lost on your outback, I've had quite a few Hobie's and used the heck out of all of them. Someone with a Getaway was asking how to clean up his hull bottom, this is the thread ( viewtopic.php?f=23&t=45650 )

The Outback hulls are very thick and can be scraped (as outlined below) many times before fearing wearing through the hull (they are suprisingly durable). I have also witnessed the local Hobie dealer (Economy Tackle in Sarasota,FL) fixing up dinged and scratched hulls with a hot wire feed iron (in the hobie catalog), that gives amazing results on big cuts and scratches. You might inquire with the local dealer about cleaning up your hull before throwing it out, or do the bulk of the scraping and cleanup yourself, then optionally having the dealer only repair just the deepest scratches. I can't imagine it costing more than a couple hundred buck to have done, or nothing if you do it all yourself.

basically this was my response:
SailScott:
The hulls are very thick on the bottom, and you can easily scrape the scratches off probably several hundred times before starting to worry about scraping through the hull. Typically if you leave the really deep scratches alone, and fix all the shallow scratches, the hull will look pretty good when done.
To scrape the hull you take a single edge razer held vertically and just swipe it back and forth, it peels the outermost layer off yet leaves a nice shiny and even finish (once you get the hang of it. I used to own and operate a rapid prototyping and engineering house, and this was how we would finish the plastic models made from our SLA and SLS machines.
Though I have never tried it on a Getaway, if your really handy you might be able to use an electric heat gun (looks like a hair dryer) and carefully wave over the surface to shine it back up after scraping. I don't recommend using a blow torch (just too risky), and you must scrape first or you will trap the dirt in the plastic. Regardless of what type of heat you use, you have to be very careful as to not overheat the hull, do small areas and move around a lot, I use a water hose to cool the areas down (so do it outside).
Usually the scraping is all that is needed to make the hull bottom look good, the electric heat gun is probably overkill on the hull bottom.
I have also put on a very thin coat of Krylon clear plastic spray paint after scraping with pretty good results (it bonds to the plastic chemically). After 24 hrs it's un-removable and looks nice (an easy way to get a nice shiny finish). Like I said I have not tried any of this on a Getaway hull but all this works nicely on most standard kayaks (most brands).
Hope this helps you
Bob


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2012 11:19 am 
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Thanks for all the responses. My plan is to continue using my outback untill it sinks and then buy a new one. I figure i have a couple more seasons, I'd love to see what's new on the Hobie horizon.


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