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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 7:29 am 
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I just purchased a project 1984 Hobie 16 which has a rear corner casting with a crack, and a front casting with epoxy on it, so I am replacing them both. I have some questions, hope someone can help (I can email pictures, but could not figure out how to put them in this post).

1. I removed both castings, it was a job, but they came off. The front crossbar has wood in it? Two long pieces that seem to go from lengthwise end to end?? There is also a corrosion hole (about 1 1/2 in by 1/2 in between the rivets, I think it is fine to reassemble as the casting should strengthen it??

2. Is there a template or a method to drill the holes for the pulley that was mounted on the front casting? I can make a template, but since I am going all the way through, I may not be exact? What size/type rivets?

3. Can someone explain the vent tube system? I only see it in the front left casting? When should it go, and how long should it be? I do not see it in the front right casting (or the rear ones)? Should there be foam all the way to the top of the castings? If not, should I put foam in? The front left does not have foam to the top, but only to about 2-3 down, when the vent tube ends? The others have foam to the top.

4. For reassembly, should I put some marine grease on the crossbars so the castings slide on easy? One of the casting bolts is enlarged slightly (front left), is there anything I can do to fix this before reassembly? The casting bolts are stainless with friction nuts, it this correct?

5. What size rivets for the castings to the crossbars? Should I just line up the holes on the crossbars to the new corner castings and rivet, or does something else need to be done?

6. Sealing the pylons. Do I put silicon sealer all around the pylons to seal them? What about the ridge in the rear, does that get sealed also or is this supposed to be open?

7. Rigging the jib. It appears that the jib sheet is routed through the traveler cleats and should work fine. Why does it still have the other jib cleats on the front crossbar? Where the travelers added as an extra item, or are they to be used together?

thanks for any help on these questions..


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:09 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
If it's got wood in the front crossbar, it isn't an '84.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:40 am 
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I know the pontoons are 84 and are not the original......so the rest of the boat is not an 1984? Why is the wood in there, what years was it placed in there?

thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:33 pm
Posts: 183
Location: Southern California
Where do you live?

I have a complete H16 frame I can give that is in good shape.

It is fully assembled and sitting on my side yard. It still has the jib sheets and Hawiian righting line on it. It is from a 1981 H16.

It is yours' if you want to pick it up. I just do not have the heart to scrap it for the aluminum value.

_________________
1979 Hobie (sold)
1983 Hobie 16 Hawiian Sunset (sold)
1981 Hobie 16 Tequilla Sunrise - still own
2008 Hobie 16 (currently sailing the crap out of this boat)
1977 Super Sunfish
John


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:52 am 
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jsloan999 wrote:
Where do you live?

I have a complete H16 frame I can give that is in good shape.

It is fully assembled and sitting on my side yard. It still has the jib sheets and Hawiian righting line on it. It is from a 1981 H16.

It is yours' if you want to pick it up. I just do not have the heart to scrap it for the aluminum value.


Thanks....but I am in Florida, and I think you are in CA or I would take you up on the offer....


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:04 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:18 am
Posts: 747
Location: Virginia Beach VA
Regarding your jib sheet question - you appear to have a later 80's style front beam with jib cleat and someone has added the older 70's style jib cars (with cleats). You can use one or the other but not both. The later jib car is just a spring loaded block with becket (no cleat). Hobie still sells them but they are a little pricey. The older style jib cars are a little cumbersome to operate especially solo sailing. They always seem to be pointing in the wrong direction. Probably why Hobie did away with them.

As for the channel in back of the pylon, I wouldn't silicon it although a lot of people do for some reason. You want water that splashes up under the pylons to drain out. If you seal it up the water will go down the vent tubes into the hull instead. I don't think it has a designed purpose though. It is just the way the metal is extruded.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 9:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:56 pm
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Location: Durham NC
sunvista wrote:
As for the channel in back of the pylon, I wouldn't silicon it although a lot of people do for some reason. You want water that splashes up under the pylons to drain out. If you seal it up the water will go down the vent tubes into the hull instead. I don't think it has a designed purpose though. It is just the way the metal is extruded.


I'm really confused by this statement. Could you clarify? The channel extends all the way down the hull so if you don't seal it it seems you are assuring water will work its way down into the hull. I also don't understand how this affects the vent tube that is inside the pylon and then inside the foam and then covered by the corner casting. The channel being filled with silicone or not won't affect the vent tube in anyway that I can see. Just trying to understand your statement as I'll be putting my hulls back together in a couple of months.

Btw I think it was very clever of hobie to simply use the same tubes for the mast as the pylons. At least I assume they are based on size and shape. Very cost effective.

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1984 Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:58 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
The corner castings are not water tight nor are they intended to be. The pylons though are molded into the hulls and are water tight. Otherwise when you flipped the boat on its side the lower hull would quickly take on water. The vent tube is the only open hull penetration that I know of and it is positioned high enough in the forward pylon to mostly stay dry. Like I said, filling the curf in the back of the pylons with silicon makes people feel good so go ahead. I've never bothered...just looks messy IMO. If any of your pylons are loose enough to need silicon you probably should start looking for another boat.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 9:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2012 6:56 pm
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Location: Durham NC
Ok, that's what I thought. Your first post made it sound as if you were saying that by sealing it up you would be making the water more likely to go into the vent tube. But in reality water isn't more or less likely to go into the vent tube if you add silicone.

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1984 Hobie 16


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