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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 8:45 am 
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BTW. If you sell one it can't be patented, already in the market.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:43 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
I may be mistaken but I think if there is no "prior art" in the patent library, it can still be patented by someone. But as I said before, I'm not really concerned about it. I can make or sell as many as I want since mine was first. Although, I have no plans to make any beyond what I use on my boats.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 12:22 pm 
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dregsfan wrote:
Very nice. Thanks for sharing. I'd like to see a closer look at the construction.


X2 - awesome stuff right here!!


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 2:59 pm 
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Do you happen to have any closeup photos in and out of a kayak? It's hard to see the attachments and how they connect. Also, I wonder how this system would work with a larger trolling motor? My Minnkota is a lot longer than the one in the video?

I imagine you still use the rudder rather than the trolling motor for turning? I would expect that swiveling the motor to turn may not turn as sharp as using a rudder positioned in the rear of the kayak?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2012 4:02 pm 
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Right, just use your rudder. The motor is locked in place.

It will hold any popular trolling motor. The clamp on the front of the horizontal tube is just a couple of conduit clamps. Slide your motor up or down to find the best height for it. Generally that's going to be a distance that puts the tip of your prop about 4 inches below the waterline. But it could be more or less, just experiment to find the point where you get the best performance and least cavitation.

There are all sorts of motor mounts you can come up with that might somehow outdo this one in some area or another, but I highly doubt you can come up with anything that is this simple, effective, reliable and inexpensive. I really hoped that Hobie would pick this one up.

When the weather clears and/or gets a little warmer, I'll retake the video in better outdoor light. But really, there isn't much to see.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 5:12 am 
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Location: Central New York
Very nice!, Is that a custom prop on that motor?

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MrGreen


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 9:11 am 
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I hate to bushwack your post but if anyone is interested Humminbird makes a fishfinder that uses this same principal called a Fishin Buddy. Mine clamps a base to the side of my PA and the entire fishfinder/transducer slips in and out (no wires needed!). It has both side and verticle beams that many other fishfinders don't even have. It runs off AA batteries so I don't have to deal with wiring, large batteries, etc. I've used mine for 2 weeks solid so far without the batteries dying!

I don't think it would be smart to clamp a motor to the side but mounting it to the rod holder depression is a great idea. I imagine if Hobie came up well thought out attachments for both trolling motors and fishfinders they would sell like hotcakes!

As everyone knows the current trolling motors designed to be used on Hobies and other kayaks cost around $1,500 and if there was a setup that fisherman could attach Minnekota and other cheaper trolling motors I know I would be first in line to buy one!


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 1:31 pm 
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Location: High Point, NC
It's the standard prop that comes on the Sevylor/WaterSnake/etc. motor.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 6:47 am 
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Location: Jacksonville, Florida
It is hard to see in the video. Some drawings of it would be great.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 7:19 am 
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I wouldn't have time to work up any drawings. Sorry.

I think many are confused because there isn't really anything to see. A down tube into the rod holder, a cross tube over the side, another down tube and a horizontal mounting tube. It's that simple.

If the weather can stay clear today I'll try to re-film the video outside this afternoon.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 8:23 am 
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How did you mount the trolling motor to the bracket? That's the one place I would be worried about. Seems like it would have to be pretty trick to withstand the torque of the trolling motor pulling on it. PVC isn't really known for being that structurally sound.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 8:30 am 
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Location: High Point, NC
Any clamp that will hold a pipe will work. Conduit clamps seem to be ideal. There isn't much stress on the unit because the boat isn't fastened to anything - it's free to move upon the water. This isn't just an idea - it's a working unit of which several have been in use for many, many hours under a great many conditions.

In any event, here's a photo that better shows the configuration. The specifics, what few there are, have already been listed in this thread.

Image


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 11:39 am 
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Tom
I can't see it till I get home from work. But if this is the engine/mount you posted about about a year ago then my hat is off to you guy .......... and I thank you whole heartedly for the Christmas gift you have given the community. BIG Thanks for sharing.

See ya at the Rod Expo !!!!!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 1:30 pm 
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I don't know if I posted about this one or not. I have some other styles but none are this easy to make nor fit all the Hobie fishing kayaks. Just posting this simple one has kept me busy for a couple hours per day answering emails about specifics. Most folks have been very nice, although a very few are downright seething mad because I won't make them one or provide them with detailed drawings and specifics. It almost makes you regret bothering to post such a thing in the first place.

Anyone that decides to make one should just pay attention to the geometry in order to have it lock in place automatically. The key is getting the centerline of the lower horizontal mounting tube just a tad below the hull seam. This causes the motor to attempt to "climb a hill" which it can't do, so it locks in place, both in forward and reverse. But you don't want the tube so low that it drags in the water.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:17 pm 
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Location: Winston-Salem NC
Would it not be better to put the motor on the other end so in forward its pushing the mount instead of pulling it? Seems like it would be more secure that way, or does it matter?


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