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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2012 3:26 pm 
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Location: High Point, NC
Designing and making something isn't hard. Designing and making something simple is often very hard.

A great deal of thought went into this contraption. If you put the motor on the other end you won't be able to easily reach the motor tiller from your seat. As it's designed and made, any popular motor on the market has a tiller long enough to be easily reached from the seat of the kayak, whether it be an Outback, Revo, Sport, AI or TI. Even a PA. Only the very short tillered Sevylor/WaterSnake requires you to reach much at all, and even that one isn't bad (you can easily extend the tiller but the controls are on the motor head on that one).

The first one I did utilized a cut down motor with a control unit housed in a box that could be set in the cockpit. But really, why bother? If you keep the motor as-is and don't have to do anything more than clamp the motor in place and drop the thing in the rod holder, so much the better.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 11:39 am 
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Yep, that makes sense now that I think about it. Thanks.

So this is not the same unit you use on your PA? I do not remember seeing anything like that on the side from the rod holder.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 11:51 am 
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No, it's not the same thing. The other one is a thousand times more complicated and difficult to make. You won't cobble it together from PVC or stuff you have lying around in the garage. It takes some molding and machining to get it done.

But this one will work on the PA. It works on any Hobie kayak that has the standard molded in rod holder.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:13 pm 
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It really is as simple as Tom says it is. I put it together after watching the video. I made one for my PA14. My suggestion is to use two clamps to secure the trolling motor. One wasn't enough for the one I put together, Thanks again Tom.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:17 pm 
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Right, notice in the photo that there are two clamps, one right above the other. This takes care of any possibility that the motor will move or angle from what you intend.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:20 pm 
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would love to see some close up pics or close up video. how to you remove the transom clamp etc. and clamp the motor to the pvc assembly.

thanks

jim

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 5:46 pm 
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I don't know what else to show. There isn't really anything else. Maybe this will help - the clamps screw to the front of the PVC end cap. I use thru-bolts, 1/4-20s. The motor shaft fits into the clamp just like a piece of conduit. That's all there is to it. It couldn't be more simple.

You don't need a transom clamp. Slide it off the motor shaft and and discard it. Some motors might require that you temporarily remove the power head to do that. Other's don't. Or just cut it off. It's not at all necessary. I can't claim to know how all the various manufacturers fit their transom clamps onto their motor shafts, but I can't imagine any of them can be very hard to remove.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:24 pm 
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That picture really helps because the video was dark. I see simple PVC parts - obvious enough. I don't get the black band near the end of PVC tee, nor do I get the two clamps... like what are they exactly?

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 6:47 pm 
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Conduit clamps. I mentioned that (I think) several times already.

The black band isn't anything - just a tape mark I had put on that one for visibility in taking measurements while I was making an adjustable unit.


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2012 8:27 pm 
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Thank you for the videos you post Tom. They have really helped me out. I adapted some of the ideas from the video you posted on the trailer for the PA's.

Thank you again. 8)

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* 2007 Hobie Quest 13
* 2008 Hobie Revolution 13
* 2013 Hobie Pro Angler 14

"FISHING THE INDIAN RIVER & MOSQUITO LAGOON"


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2012 7:49 pm 
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Tom,

thanks for all the info

will go hardware store

that black band (tape? ) had me confused

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 04, 2013 10:29 am 
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Tom;

Do not give up on sharing your ideas? We really do appreciate them.

Thank you for what you do.

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BentRodyakker
PA14
Rockaway Beach
Oregon


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 5:49 am 
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Location: Straits,outside of Beaufort, close to Harkers Island
thank you Tom. key word for me was end cap.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 8:45 am 
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I had no desire to install a trolling motor on my PA but now you have me thinking.............

I am looking forward to your video.

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That is why they calling it fishing and not catching.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:15 pm 
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Ahhh....I love simple and inexpensive!!! Nice work.

I have been mulling the idea of motorizing my Adventure, as I fish for salmon in the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the entire Puget Sound empties (and fills) though the Strait, and even a 2 foot exchange generates a lot of current at the near shore when the kelp beds hold king salmon. I have been drifting to the west on the ebb, jigging on the slack, which only lasts for 10 or 15 minutes, and returning on the flood, but with my 40# thrust MinnKota, I could scoot upcurrent with power assist. And the nice thing about your mount is that the pedal drive and rudder are unaffected, unlike the BAssyaks and Hobie motors.
Thanks again, Tom. You have an intriguing workshop!! Need any more kayaks?? ;-)


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