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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 3:45 pm 
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Chopcat wrote:
i have tried to make the location a "sort of curve" rather than "exact" position particularly so it can work with the tramps out and in. To be honest there is a huge amount of "suck it and see" with this. Anyway if it all goes wrong we can have a a few days worth of fire wood!
That's the spirit! :lol: I like that your curved base accommodates the furled tramps. The resting place of the Hakas is also somewhat limited by the Aka brace hardware. Any mounting structure should take this into account, if you want the flexibility of sliding them in/out.
Chopcat wrote:
On that point how has anyone fixed their hakas with the tramp out. is there anywhere to get a cord round it?
I ditched the tramps, but a few folks on this thread have tried this.
Chopcat wrote:
one more question - i have fitted KB's spray skirts and wanted to run the tension line through a pulley on the aka. Has anyone done this? Just a cord round the bungee button and a harken swivel pulley?
Yakass has this feature on one version of his skirts. Others too, I think.
Chopcat wrote:
Oh and Nohuhu....you dont have a good ukelele maker near you that you could recommend?
Kamaka is the gold standard. Plenty of newbies are making quality products now though.
Chpcat wrote:
I have just started playing and need a decent uke.... not to mention my Tiki mug collection for which I am always on the lookout for interesting finds. http://www.ooga-mooga.com/cgi-bin/all/collection.cgi?mode=gallery&user_id=781
LOL! Hawaiians prefer drinking from a coconut. ;-) But if you do a fly by, we'll hit the local Tiki Bar together.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 08, 2013 4:59 pm 
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Chopcat wrote:
On that point how has anyone fixed their hakas with the tramp out. is there anywhere to get a cord round it?


Very impressive woodwork and haka there CC! 8)

I always use the tramps with the haka. I bent some 20mm aluminium flat bar to make a hook that goes over the forward aka and tube clips locate it between the straps on the rear aka. Pics on pages 21 and 33 of this thread. Also check out Louis's pics on page 25 for another way of locating it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:20 am 
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Thanks for the pointers i hope to have a dry run this weekend (in the snow) and will see how fixing can be achieved.

Here is a picture of the top surface sanded before I set the hole cutter on to them.

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CC

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 9:50 am 
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Beautiful!

When dry fitting, consider adding more holes and/or slots for attachment points, drainage and lightening of its weight, before you apply your finish.

Have you weighed one yet?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 10:25 am 
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KayakingBob wrote:
Beautiful!

When dry fitting, consider adding more holes and/or slots for attachment points, drainage and lightening of its weight, before you apply your finish.

Have you weighed one yet?


I am about to start the slimming process and will weigh before and after.

Finish is going to be Epifanes varnish

Bob, have you and pics or advice for fitting a pulley onto the aka for tensioning the spray skirts Mrs B so kindly made for me



CC

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 11:31 am 
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On the AI I use for fishing, which I have added extra eyelet-posts on each forward aka, I just use the eyelet-post itself as the pulley (old picture below). Others have done the same using the factory installed eyelet-post on the end of the aka. A couple of Sprayskirt owners have talked about adding small pulleys like you are suggesting, but I have not seen pictures. Maybe they will see this post and post pictures here?

Be careful if considering metal pulleys as they will most likely bang against the aka, during sailing, making a racket. :o

Also, make sure the loop over the eyelet-post is small enough (tight) that it won't shake off when not under pressure in rough conditions.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:28 pm 
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NOHUHU wrote:
Interesting approach. We are all secretly drooling over your shop setup. ( sigh).

I was going to suggest using the router to channel the boards and trim off some weight. What do you calculate them to weigh?


Cheers!
NOHUHU


The pre slimming weigh in gets us 21lbs.!
they are a mighty 7'6' x 1'

cc

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:09 pm 
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Hope there's room on the trailer.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 12:54 pm 
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We are getting there.

four coats of Epifanes varnish so far. another six to go

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:09 pm 
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Chopcat--is the weight of 21# for each haka?

It definitely looks beautiful.

Keith

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:39 pm 
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Yes 20 ish Lbs a side.

easily to carry but quite long as i wanted such a good cantilever.

I will weigh again but dont expect drilling the holes in them will have done anything other than offset the weight of the finish.

I wonder if they will float?

Whilst we are at it...what are everyone's experiences of controlling the sheet whilst hiking out? has anyone changed to a swivel cleat or some other system to allow decent control when away from the seat....or does it work ok as is?

I have seen a couple of posts and the swivel base cleat looks a good idea. Do the replace the original or are more fixings needed?

Only asking as our new boat is under a foot of snow at the moment waiting to be christened.




CC

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 2:56 pm 
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NOHUHU tried the swivel cleat.

With the regular cleat, I can't get as good leverage to pull as tight the sheetline, as I can from in the seat. As I tack, I usually adjust the sheet before scampering to the windward haka, or let the rear seat do it (if occupied). But, I normally sail from the front seat unlike most solo TI captains.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 5:02 pm 
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Chopcat wrote:
Yes 20 ish Lbs a side.

easily to carry but quite long as i wanted such a good cantilever.

I will weigh again but dont expect drilling the holes in them will have done anything other than offset the weight of the finish.

I wonder if they will float?

Whilst we are at it...what are everyone's experiences of controlling the sheet whilst hiking out? has anyone changed to a swivel cleat or some other system to allow decent control when away from the seat....or does it work ok as is?

I have seen a couple of posts and the swivel base cleat looks a good idea. Do the replace the original or are more fixings needed?

Only asking as our new boat is under a foot of snow at the moment waiting to be christened.




CC


Hi Chopcat,
about weight saving, i have been an aeromodeler for 22 years. Planes need to be as light as possible. Same for boats. What about using a forstner drill bit, let's say 1.5 inches diameter, and drill holes on the bottom of the AKAS at
60 % of the depth of the wood planks, at about 1 inch from each other, or whatever would be the best. You would not loose stiffness and you will probably save at least 6 to 7 pounds on each one.
I used to do it on plywood to save weight on my giant scale model airplanes.....and it worked.....just a suggestion here ;0)

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:22 pm 
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Great suggestion. I would channel route the bottom, at this point. It could shave a kilo and retain the awesome topside beauty of those boards.

Generally anything over 15lbs is less of an asset, at least while on the water or transporting. Having open slats or slots really protects you from adverse wind and wave action, and helps to shed water. So those are the design goals I usually have in mind. (A little flex as well).

Chopcat, I've switched out a couple boats to the harken extreme angle fairleads, ( same cleat) and have found them useful. Also, we added some blocks to the furling line. Check out the TI3 thread for details. You'll need a hiking stick too.

On the tramps or Hakas, you'll sit much higher and to the side of the sheeting cleats, so some form of angle wedge or swivel hardware is going to make things easier. Especially with a fully loaded TI sail!

Before changing the hardware, I developed the habit of locking down the lines with my foot. I still do this, to be safe.

Chopcat, thanks for sharing your fine ideas and craftsmenship here.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2013 6:31 pm 
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Location: Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
One question guys, how do you land a big fish
with the hakas?
I normally use the tramp on my left, and nothing
on my right, so I can fold the AMA. Then I tailgrap
the fish and pull it in( and throw it on the tramp).
Without being able to fold one side in, how do
you land a big fish, and how do you handle it
with that gap between the yak and the haka?

Thanks


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