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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 11:04 am 
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
The material used for the Hobie Tramps is not a good material for Sprayskirts (even expedition sized) in my opinion. It needs to breath better to let air and especially water through it.

My very first Sprayskirt I tested years ago, was mush narrower but of waterproof fabric. Part way through the test I had to take out my knife and poke a hole at the lowest spot in each to let the puddles of water to drain out that were holding the bow low. I ended up adding a large metal grommet in each hole to help drainage, but the wind still grabbed them making it harder for the nose to come across the wind compared AI's without them.

If Hobie changes the Tramp material to something less sealed (looser weave?) it could be interesting.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2013 3:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2009 4:07 am
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Location: Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
I agree with Bob, you need a different material which drains better/ faster.

I have thought about sewing a 2inch Velcro to the tramp to fix the skirt to that. But tightening would be difficult and I wouldn't be able to fold my amas in which I find essential for landing big fish.


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 Post subject: Weave recommendation
PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 8:05 am 
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Location: CLEARWATER, MN
On my first spray skirt, I used an "open weave" tramp cloth, that had a fairly large weave. The first time I hit some rough chop the wave blew through the cloth...I was drenched. Rather than a lap full of water, I was thoroughly sprayed from head to toe. On my second attempt, I used a much finer weave which blocked most of the spray. I used fiberglass rods along the edges to stiffen them up. I too found that water would 'pocket' in the center of the skirt. I removed the rear rod so that the rear was more 'floppy', this allowed any significant weight of water to pour out the rear. The rear did not allow water to come up because the rear of the skirts were beneath the tramps.
The bow did resist coming up when plowing into a steep chop with the full skirts. Which is why I like the idea of the smaller expedition size, with the forward section much further back from the bow.
I am using the same smaller weave size for the new expedition skirts. The rear is rodless so that water can drain out quickly.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 11:41 am 
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Location: Maui, Hawaii
Maybe on your next one, you could try a very slightly looser weave. I have found the Coolaroo brand of shade-cloth (an Aussie product) sold by Home Depot to currently be the best balance between blocking water coming at angle (bow wave), but letting water drain out quickly and not grabbing very much wind.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 2:01 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
KBob should know. Over the years, he's personally and extensively tested many materials and weaves. And he really enjoys his work.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 3:48 pm 
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Location: KY Lake
Reading this thread- can I pull the amas in while the sprayskirt is deployed?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 5:38 pm 
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Location: Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
If you mount them in a special way you can.
I typically sail with my left tramp attached so my left skirt is fixed.
The right side has no tramp and the skirt is attached in a way so I can fold the AMA in without touching the skirt. I try to find some pics, makes it easier to explain.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 6:56 pm 
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I own a laser cutter and line bender. I have an idea for a clear plexiglass deflector with a bent lip and holes for drainage to prevent burying. With the laser cutter I can cut any pattern/size of drain holes. Should be able to be mounted high enough to clear amas retraction. I am one week away from taking delivery and I am already working on mods LOL.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 10, 2013 7:25 pm 
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Location: Byron Bay, NSW, Australia
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Ok, here we go.
I found an old description from the full lenght skirts, but the mounting is exactly the same.
The key is that the c-clamp/horseshoe clamp is mountet straight on top of the forward paddle rest. If you got it right you can fold the ama freely in, but the string never looses tension. Put them on and forget about them.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/71328896/How%20to%20get%20the%20Ama%20to%20fold.docx

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 2:33 pm 
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Location: Pensacola, FL
KayakingBob,

I have read several threads here about your work on sprayskirts. I would like to try to create some on my own and get my mom to do the sewing (she owns a nice serger). Anyhow, I plan on getting some of the Coolaroo material you suggested. I do have a few questions I'm hoping you can answer.

1. Could you tell me which of these I need to get? There seem to be a lot of choices...http://www.coolaroousa.com/view-products.do?category_id=Shadecloth

2. Could you provide the template for your best design that does not require new holes or the least modification to the hull?

3. What stitch pattern will provide the most strength/durability?

I sure appreciate any info. I know you are constantly improving the design, and I was hoping to not have to recreate the wheel here.

Jay

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 3:51 pm 
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yaknrugger wrote:
1. Could you tell me which of these I need to get? There seem to be a lot of choices...http://www.coolaroousa.com/view-products.do?category_id=Shadecloth
Any 70% should work, you choose the color :)

yaknrugger wrote:
2. Could you provide the template for your best design that does not require new holes or the least modification to the hull?
My AI template is available to download free on my website, near the bottom of the page here: http://www.kayakingbob.com/sprayskirt

I never created a TI template, but it's just the AI template cut 4 inches shorter at the front, just change the outside line angle so it's the same width at the point.

yaknrugger wrote:
3. What stitch pattern will provide the most strength/durability?
Use polyester thread for UV resistance, and use a stretch locking stitch, if the machine has one.

Good luck and post your results.

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