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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 8:35 pm 
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!! Always love watching that video.

That dude must really be having a "Hobie Day",.. :evil:


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 1:23 pm 
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stringy wrote:
It's probably unrealistic to expect a rotomolded hull with so many penetrations to remain 100% dry.


Theres really not that many penetrations......90% of the fittings are molded in to the hull so they dont actually go through.....for a 16ft kayak its not to many holes and the only ones that should really be expected to leak alittle are the rudder lines but even those can be made to leak very little

Check this out for front hatches..

viewtopic.php?f=69&t=46323

-Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Deepbluesilence wrote:
Theres really not that many penetrations......90% of the fittings are molded in to the hull so they dont actually go through....


Jeff,
That simply isn't the case. The mesh pockets are held in by self tappers that go through the hull, the 8" hatches have similar screws and a dodgy backing plate, the up/down rudder controls are push-in fittings, likewise the rear rudder lines which are often submerged. The sheet block and the tiller go straight through the hull, as do the top mast tube screws.
Even the molded fittings such as padeyes, cleats, bungee holders etc have been leak sources as reported by members here. Often the threads get damaged during fitting and the thin plastic is punctured.
Each of these are a potential leak source. Combined with an ill-fitting front hatch submarining through waves and the quirk of the 8" hatch that deposits a small amount of water straight into the hull when it is opened, a 100% dry hull would be very rare. Each one of the 5 Hobie hulls I have had has leaked just enough to ensure I put everything stored in the hull in dry bags. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:11 am 
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stringy wrote:
Each of these are a potential leak source. Combined with an ill-fitting front hatch submarining through waves and the quirk of the 8" hatch that deposits a small amount of water straight into the hull when it is opened, a 100% dry hull would be very rare. Each one of the 5 Hobie hulls I have had has leaked just enough to ensure I put everything stored in the hull in dry bags. :)

I agree 100%!
And if you by accident or mishap should get a larger amount of water inside the hull, your kayak will act as a washing machine in rinse cycle. Then your dry bags will no longer be dry. By experience I have changed my policy/routines regarding gear that I absolutely must have dry in all cases. I don't want to abort a trip because of wet gear.

A 100% water tight Adventure Island is for sure on my dream list!

br thomas


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:04 am 
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augaug wrote:
I'm pretty sure that the Adventure's front hatch is a little bit bigger than the Revo's.


Hmm... I think just the opposite, although my Revo is now gone.

I'd say the Adventure hatch is shorter, narrower and definitely shallower...

Anyone got a tape-measure and a Revo at hand?

Mike.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 6:21 am 
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If I remember correctly, the Adventure hull is shallower, but overall storage was bigger, and I still think the hatch opening was a hair bigger. But we're not talking night and day.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 12:40 pm 
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My AI is about as close to being 100% water tight as it can be. Even after spending hours plowing through and under steep powerboat wakes (fun on a hot day) or being out in torrential downpours, the best I can do is dampen the bottom of a sponge set inside on the hull bottom.

Of course, saying that my boat doesn’t leak isn’t going to help somebody who’s boat does leak. And obviously from the comments here, it’s apparent that many do. Some badly.

I think, however, that many of these badly leaking AI hulls can be sealed up quite a bit by a little work by the owner (I know, you shouldn’t have to do it, but...)

It’s reasonable to say that just sitting your AI on the water shouldn’t result in any leaks. If it does, then you’ve got a crack or split somewhere in the hull. I’ll assume that isn’t the case and that any water is coming in from the fittings or hatch area.

Any thru-hull fittings can be effectively sealed by removing and reinstalling with a dollop of GOOP. This will definitely solve any water coming in around the fittings.

Which leaves us with the hatch opening. I have noticed on some AI’s that the coaming is not completely upright and square. Part of the molding and cooling off process I guess. This means that the coaming seal isn’t going to be the same height all the way around which can leave a small space or opening against the hatch in those areas.

Rather than trying to fit a larger seal to the coaming, it might be more effective to put a flat seal around the inside top surface (not the flange). This would take up any space where the coaming seal is not able to make sound contact with the hatch lid.

Mine doesn’t leak so I can’t say if this’ll work or not, but it’s what I would try first if it did leak.

On a different note, I measured them and the Revo hatch is roughly 17 x 12 maximum while the AI hatch is 15 x 12 maximum. Surprising. I had them both here but wouldn't have suspected that the Revo hatch opening is actually a little larger.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 1:49 pm 
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Wow, I stand corrected about the hatch size. That's interesting because I always found it easier to load the AI with big things instead of the revolution.

And since this topic has turned to leaky hatches and boats, I can't say that I've had any type of problem with any of my Hobie kayaks. My AI was especially tight. It would still get some water inside, but very little, and only if I was sailing in rough conditions. The rest of the time, there were drips along the floor, but I wonder how much of that was just condensation from my gear or just the boat. Most of the time if there was water in my boat, I would consider it condensation over water. It really wasn't much.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2013 3:24 pm 
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That's the thing - these boats aren't suffering from any particular design defect that causes them to be prone to leaking, but such leaking isn't at all uncommon.

There has to be a user do-it-yourself type of fix for those that are experiencing such leaking. And if these leaks are due mostly to ill-fitting hatch seals, it would seem reasonable to think that somebody can come up with a fix.

Having said that, and already stating my AI doesn't leak, I have to say that I still don't put anything I need to keep absolutely dry in the "bilge" on any boat, including my Hobies, without putting them in a sealed dry bag first.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 3:31 am 
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Tom Kirkman wrote:
That's the thing - these boats aren't suffering from any particular design defect that causes them to be prone to leaking, but such leaking isn't at all uncommon....
Having said that, and already stating my AI doesn't leak, I have to say that I still don't put anything I need to keep absolutely dry in the "bilge" on any boat, including my Hobies, without putting them in a sealed dry bag first.


I agree. Well said Tom.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2013 9:42 am 
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well having cracks in the areas where ur fittings are molded in is a b!@tch haha....maybe go through everything and if still leaks do the suggested checks of common hull crack areas...if still leaks take out all molded fittings and goop also

cracked places in the hull aside, like tom said it does take a little DIY from the owner but hey most AI or TI owners dont mind some diy :mrgreen: .....screw holes shouldnt be a problem with some goop....and after a pressure test you should be good to go

i guess i just see it differently i have only had my AI for a short period but have been kayak fishing offshore for a long time.....i see water tight as not taking on water....being able to keep a book in the bottom of the hull dry is a different story entirely :mrgreen: its kinda like the leash it or loose it rule....dry bag or box it or its guna get wet......getting in from a long day of fishing in rough conditions with less than or equal to a cup of water is the goal i have set out for

like you said stringy having the rudder lines/rudder pulls means there inevitably will be a small amount of water in the hull after a day on the water......there shouldn't be any if your in flat lake water unless your submarining through boat wakes

maybe hobie should think about molding the rudder control lines into the hull, and adding more poly behind all the through hull screws to further ease water tightness

im still adding a auto bilge on mine :mrgreen: even watertight needs one for safety offshore

-Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 1:51 am 
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OK- back on topic.
I'd love to see either a better fitting drivewell plug or a 'sliding door' type arrangement in the drivewell that would stop that performance sapping water surge at the rear of the drivewell whenever the MD isn't in.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 5:30 am 
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stringy wrote:
OK- back on topic.
I'd love to see either a better fitting drivewell plug or a 'sliding door' type arrangement in the drivewell that would stop that performance sapping water surge at the rear of the drivewell whenever the MD isn't in.


+1

Roadrunner has shown it can be done, so it would be no big deal for Hobie to produce.

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 7:45 am 
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Beautiful.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2013 5:02 am 
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It certainly is beautiful! 8)
Thanks for that Chris. I had Roadrunner's clever mod in mind when I posted this. For those who haven't seen it, it's buried within this post:
viewtopic.php?f=71&t=33359


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