well having cracks in the areas where ur fittings are molded in is a b!@tch haha....maybe go through everything and if still leaks do the suggested checks of common hull crack areas...if still leaks take out all molded fittings and goop also
cracked places in the hull aside, like tom said it does take a little DIY from the owner but hey most AI or TI owners dont mind some diy
.....screw holes shouldnt be a problem with some goop....and after a pressure test you should be good to go
i guess i just see it differently i have only had my AI for a short period but have been kayak fishing offshore for a long time.....i see water tight as not taking on water....being able to keep a book in the bottom of the hull dry is a different story entirely
its kinda like the leash it or loose it rule....dry bag or box it or its guna get wet......getting in from a long day of fishing in rough conditions with less than or equal to a cup of water is the goal i have set out for
like you said stringy having the rudder lines/rudder pulls means there inevitably will be a small amount of water in the hull after a day on the water......there shouldn't be any if your in flat lake water unless your submarining through boat wakes
maybe hobie should think about molding the rudder control lines into the hull, and adding more poly behind all the through hull screws to further ease water tightness
im still adding a auto bilge on mine
even watertight needs one for safety offshore
-Jeff