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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 9:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 30, 2012 12:24 pm
Posts: 73
Location: NJ
Tom Kirkman wrote:
Okay, I gave it some thought and here's how it could be done.

If you wanted some sort of slip or failsafe device, you could forego gluing the top pieces. Drill a hole in the side of the top T-fitting and then another one in the outside top 90-degree fitting. All fittings should be sized for an easy, slightly loose slip fit. Now run a threaded rod from the inside hole to the outside hole. On one end put a lock nut, on the other, a washer, a coil spring, another washer and then a wing nut.

By turning the wingnut you can adjust the tension on the pieces thus setting a pre-determined slip point whereby any collision between the motor and an object would cause the pieces to slip, thereby lessening the chance of any damage to the boat.

I just cobbled one together and it appears it would work just fine. I'd have to take it on the water and purposely run into a few things to make sure, but from what I can tell in the shop, it appears to do what you're after.




this is a great solution! very good point about the fishing line, its something i always talk about to new yak fishermen when they want to go offshore with heavy braided line...as we know its absolutely not necessary because of the principles you talked about...

Tom is your mount fitted with a foam bottom? Is it really snug fitting? I found some eva rod grips that fit perfectly into 1-1/4in pvc and would be perfect for this, i used them on my roll bars...i also added gorilla tape to it until it fit perfectly into the tube....i feel a loose fit might cause a pinch point at the point the pvc end is pushing up against the rod holder opposite the trolling thrust(likely only after collision or extended use) any thoughts?


-Jeff


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 04, 2013 11:38 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 6:29 pm
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Location: High Point, NC
I don't have any foam on mine and the mounts and motor stay put. Just haven't had any trouble in that area.

I have put a small piece of tape or rubber (bicycle inner tube) around the rod holder tube upright just to better center it, although even that might not be necessary.

When you size the top cross bar, it should be a length that puts the lower horizontal mounting piece up flush against the hull. So the rod holder piece is going to be pulled against that side of the holder, with or without any short of shim. There shouldn't be any play.


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