Unless you have an all aluminum mast... Do not use the hoop and eye strap.
I don't have COMPTIP. So I imagine that isn't what I should do. That means I use that LOOP? (which I would add a pulley to?) (not shown) EASY enough, but there was more in teh original drawing from France that implied a thin string around the mast for something? (to keep a downward tension on the block and loop?
why is the aluminum mast different? I would suspect the all aluminium would be stronger than the comp tip? any of attaching the tang below the comptip - why would it matter if the mast has comptip or is all alum? (both would keep mounting off the comptip material).
I would prefer to use only mast tang. (seems cleaner) But someone from here emailed me saying I need the hoop to direct the tension from the tang to tension downward instead of outward... the tension from the spin will be primarily forward (outward). I read that the downward tension desired is induced by having the halyard leave the tang and go down through a loop before leading to head of spin. (thus pulling tension down on tang rather than out). ???
Also everything I read that tells where to mount tang says distance from tang to tang "holes" this page 2 drawing doesn't show that. Instead shows spin tang to be measured 1375 from primary tang hole to top of spin tang.
Maybe I'm being too accurate in that it maybe isn't that critical? though specs don't say "around 1400mm" they say 1375mm (meaning accuracy counts).
I've popped a few of those hobie mast rivets in my masts already and I don't look forward to doing them for the new tang then having to MOVE them and do it again. OUCH! what really frustrates me is - It would take someone at Hobie USA less than one hour to draw proper instructions or shoot a few photos and post in a pdf file on their site or on this forum.
This product has been available for YEARS or not decades and we're still looking at instructions that look like they were done for the first prototype!