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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 10:12 am 
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The Wave does it. The Wave has the option of keeping comp tip and bottom section separate.

Can this be done on the H16 or Getaway also or do they have to be epoxied together permanently in order to sail?


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 4:51 pm 
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On the 16, the tang is riveted through the aluminum into the Comptip, holding the whole thing together.

So the short answer is "no".


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 6:58 pm 
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Ah. Good answers are short. :)


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 14, 2013 3:58 pm 
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I partially agree with Mbounds, only because it depends on how it was installed on the aluminum mast. Case in point, when I first got my boat.
I downhauled my main, and noticed that the joint look like it was bent backward toward aft. When I took it out, I noticed that the comptip was alittle loose at the joint. So I took it apart, the comptip may have been cut slightly shorter to avoid the rivets of the tang, I don't remember for sure, but do remember I was able to pull it out faily easy. I tightened It up on reinstall with aluminum rods as shims along the luff track to somewhat wedge it in there, and custom made a pin with tapped out holes on each end to bolt to the outsides of the mast on each side, along with epoxy for strength.
So the long answer is that if you were able to do it why would you want to.
It would be hard to keep it tight in the mast when using it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 17, 2013 9:21 pm 
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M in MI wrote:
I partially agree with Mbounds, only because it depends on how it was installed on the aluminum mast. Case in point, when I first got my boat.
I downhauled my main, and noticed that the joint look like it was bent backward toward aft. When I took it out, I noticed that the comptip was alittle loose at the joint. So I took it apart, the comptip may have been cut slightly shorter to avoid the rivets of the tang, I don't remember for sure, but do remember I was able to pull it out faily easy. I tightened It up on reinstall with aluminum rods as shims along the luff track to somewhat wedge it in there, and custom made a pin with tapped out holes on each end to bolt to the outsides of the mast on each side, along with epoxy for strength.
So the long answer is that if you were able to do it why would you want to.
It would be hard to keep it tight in the mast when using it.

The very early retrofit kits had shorter Comptips that didn't rely on the tang rivets for security. It didn't take Hobie long to change to the current style for the very reason you mention. You have one of the early retrofit kits.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 12:02 pm 
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JJ - I may have come up with a safe way to keep the two mast sections apart. I am considering roof topping the H16 on our Subaru to races this summer in New England rather than trailering because the jeep wrangler is not particularly safe or comfortable for long towing trips. In order to take the mast, I want to keep it short so it doesn't stick out the ends of the car.

Google "rivet nuts". These are rivets you put (like you normally would) into the comptip. After installing these in the comptip, you put the tip into the top of the mast as per usual installation and screw on the tang. The screws will screw into the rivets because the rivets are threaded.

Here is a link that describes them somewhat: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-rivet-nuts/=m5w7oq

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:04 pm 
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I would think a subaru (or pretty much anything) would haul an H16 no problem??

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:38 pm 
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hobiesrock wrote:
I would think a subaru (or pretty much anything) would haul an H16 no problem??

+1 I think you're at risk to do damage to your car, your boat, or yourself trying to get a 300+ lb boat on and off of the roof rack...

I tow my H18 with a Mazda3- handles great. Just slow down and use common sense (ie, don't try to tow over the continental divide on a 100° day...).

I used http://www.etrailer.com/ for hitches.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 1:53 pm 
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I use to pull 2 jetski's with a Pontiac Grand-Am 4 Banger on a heave 2 place trailer - granted that trailer is well balanced. Ski's alone were 7 lbs plus 2-3 5 gallon gas jugs full of gas. Your Subaru will pull just fine.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 2:03 pm 
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Unfortunately the manufacturer does not recommend towing with the car, and if you do, less than 1000 lb's. The hulls and mast are going on the roof rack (80 lb's a piece + 20 lb's for bottom section of mast, 180 lb's total, roof rack weight rating for 200 lb's). I've handled the hulls before, and with two people (two college guys specifically) it wont be a problem to get on the roof. The rest are the aluminium sections that fit inside the wagon. Nothing will stick out more than 3 ft from the front or back of the car.

I've disassembled and re assembled the h16 within an hour, I'm not concerned about that.

TO get to races this summer, it takes about 5 hours each way to each race. I expect to save a bit of money this way as well considering gas, toll bridges (need to pay 40 bucks each race time going with a trailer), and less strain put on the car's transmission.

I wouldn't see why this wouldn't work...

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 4:34 am 
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OK, I've been down this road before, even if it was 35 year ago:

Image

That was on the roof of a '72 Olds Delta 88 - a huge boat of a car - and it was scary. I can't imagine doing this on a little Subaru.

Trust the voice of experience - you will never regret putting a trailer hitch on the car. Unless you're towing a double stack, you won't even come close to the 1000 lb limit. Just do it and get it over with.


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 04, 2013 5:25 am 
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That picture makes me laugh...


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 8:29 am 
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bassie1234567 wrote:
Unfortunately the manufacturer does not recommend towing with the car, and if you do, less than 1000 lb's. The hulls and mast are going on the roof rack (80 lb's a piece + 20 lb's for bottom section of mast, 180 lb's total, roof rack weight rating for 200 lb's). I've handled the hulls before, and with two people (two college guys specifically) it wont be a problem to get on the roof. The rest are the aluminium sections that fit inside the wagon. Nothing will stick out more than 3 ft from the front or back of the car.

I've disassembled and re assembled the h16 within an hour, I'm not concerned about that.

TO get to races this summer, it takes about 5 hours each way to each race. I expect to save a bit of money this way as well considering gas, toll bridges (need to pay 40 bucks each race time going with a trailer), and less strain put on the car's transmission.

I wouldn't see why this wouldn't work...

Errrrrr. Even with a Steel Constructed trailer you would be below 1000 lbs.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 16, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Towing with an automatic tranny.....may I suggest that you do NOT let the car go into 'overdrive'....lock it in 3rd gear, easier on the tranny.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 2:19 pm 
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Look up specs on a Grand Am with a Quad4 engine. I pulled a 340 lbs Jetski, 450 lb Sitdown Jetski, 3 5 gal cans of gas using a steel trailer. Had no issues pulling that setup. Well over 1000 lbs Many 4.5 hour trips to the beach down winding 2 lane hill back roads!!!!!!!!!


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