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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:44 pm
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Location: Toronto, Canada
hey guys i have scratched the bottom of my boat alot its down to the fibre glass any tip? Putty? Gelcoat? Fillers?


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2013 10:44 pm 
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flip it upsidedown and paint some more gelcoat on and sand to desired cosmetic appeal.

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:26 am 
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Location: Toronto, Canada
thanks ya its upside down right now...okay so gel coat is the best way to go..


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 9:03 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
If you have signigicant wear into the fiberglass, then you should rebuild with fiberglass cloth prior to gelcoating. If it's just some scratches, then yes, straight gelcoat is the way to go.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 12:10 pm 
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Location: eureka,california
Thicken the Gelcoat with a high density filler. much easier to work with that way.

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F-18 5150
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http://www.sailblogs.com/member/f-185150sailing/


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 2:37 pm 
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Location: Tri-Cities, WA
I use Marine-Tex epoxy instead gel coat for surface repairs, But get A LOT of flack for not using polyester http://www.marinetex.com/marinetexepoxyputty.html
I've used it to build up the bottom of my hulls, repair both bows, the leading edge of my centerboards on my H17 (an annual thing) and several significant dings (Oh, the life of a river sailor) It works great, is easy to use, file and sand. You can paint, but not gelcoat over it. For major repairs I first do the glass work in polyester (fiberglass resin and cloth) then surface coat with the Marine-Tex. Since my boat is white, the white Marine-Tex is a good match.

Hint: If you have a H17 and want to build up the leading edge of your centerboard (the edge that gets dragged on the beach) prep the surface as instructed, apply a liberal amount of epoxy along the edge, then apply blue panter tape along both sides (no wrinkles) so the tape A-frames around the bead and tape-to-tape along the upper edge. Apply even pressure on both sides to squeeze out the air and even out the putty within the tape. If carefull you get a great leadind edge that needs just a little filing and sanding. :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 5:20 pm 
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If you use non polyester stuff... you have to keep using non polyester stuff, if you use polyester resin/gelcoat you can keep piling it on. If gelcoat were hard to work with I might suggest other epoxies, but there isn't a whole lot of difference. You have to clean you area, mix it right, apply and clean it up with sanding or whatnot. Also, how much time do you have and what is available to you?

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2013 6:44 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Polyester resins are typically easier to work with than epoxies. The mixing ratios are much more forgiving and they cure more quickly.

The main problem with using epoxy on a Hobie hull is that you have to remember where you used it because you can't later go back to using polyester (unless you grind out all the epoxy). Epoxy is good for bonding, joining, and delam repairs. For laminating, surface repairs, or anywhere you need to do finish work, polyester is generally preferred.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 10:37 am 
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Location: Indialantic, FL
How can you tell if a previous repair is epoxy or polyester?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:00 pm 
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Location: Toronto, Canada
thanks guys this is great info..i think you guys are right maybe i should do some glass work before i gel it.. ive never done any before so this is all new to me, im going to have to make a trip to west marine about 10min drive from my boat pretty handy but its still damn cold here in toronto anyone know what temperatures are okay to do glass or gel work in?

Bronwyn


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2013 4:56 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
viking sailor wrote:
anyone know what temperatures are okay to do glass or gel work in?

Bronwyn


Generally speaking, somewhere in the 60 to 80 degree range is best since the reaction time is temperature dependent, outside of this range will impact curing time pretty significantly. With polyester resin, you can correct for this to some degree by varying the amount of catalyst used. With epoxy, your choice of resin will determine cure time.

Here is some helpful info regarding polyester curing times and catalyst ratios.

http://uscomposites.com/pdf/MEKPDirections.pdf

sm


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