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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 11:23 am 
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A few photos and a short video clip covering the fitment of a bilge pump to an Outback.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFCocJzVNC0&feature=share&list=UUQnlOrGsrFGstDX86tKGDkw[/youtube]

It was suggested on a UK fishing forum that my 7aH SLA battery would be drained in no time by this pump, especially as I run my FF, GPS and navigation light off the same battery.

The current draw of the Rule 500gph pump is 1.9A. The Elite 4 DSI pulls 0.75A, navigation light 0.2A and my Garmin 60CSx 0.15A (these are all manufacturers figures). That said, I've used the Lowrance and Garmin for 10 hours with the battery still showing over 12V. That did raise questions over the ACTUAL current draw of these items.

So I popped into the garage and broke into the circuit with a multi-meter and took some readings.

The Lowrance DSI (backlight on full) current draw varies between 0.15-0.19A
The Garmin 60Csx (backlight on full) current draw is steady at 0.06A
The navigation light pulls 0.12A
The Rule 500GPH pulls 0.69A (no load)

Looking at those figures, during a night trip, my current draw is 0.37A. Even if I was afloat for 6-7 hours I'd have used well under half the battery capacity. Theoretically that give me at least two hours bilge pump running time (using the Rule current draw figure of 1.9A). That's MORE than enough to get me back to land should the worst ever happen.

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Last edited by Scrumpy on Sun Apr 07, 2013 2:19 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 06, 2013 4:49 pm 
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Very nice, i don't think you will be seeing it as standard equipment on Hobie kayaks though, may give the wrong impression.


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 1:30 am 
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cnnashman wrote:
Very nice, i don't think you will be seeing it as standard equipment on Hobie kayaks though, may give the wrong impression.


Fitting it has cetainly got nothing to do with it being a Hobie, I'd always wanted to fit one to my Big Game but never got around to it. I had a blank canvas when I started rigging the Outback so I incorperated in the design from day one.

ANY kayak has the potential to start leaking, whether it be a cracked scupper, perforated hull, open drain plug, leaking hatch, etc. It's piece of mind should the worst ever happen. No different from carrying a manual bilge pump,flares, radio, paddle float, throw line, strobe lights, compass, etc.

The advantage over the manual pump is that in this case it operates electrically, manually or automatically (model dependent), you can head into shore without being sat their pumping. What's the chance of it ever being used?, hopefully nil... but there again we say that about all the other items of safety equipment that we carry with us.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:48 am 
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This is a great idea especially for off shore fishermen. If in a PA and take water it is hard to get out in rolling waves with a manual pump.
Jim

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2013 4:03 pm 
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I was joking with you Scrumpy lol. It would be very useful for offshore yakking .


I also like the trolling motor through the cassette plug option is case your offshore and exhausted you can quickly pop out the mirage drive to pop in a electric motor.

I know someone else figured that one out.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 6:56 am 
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Nice work Scrumpy,
I like your neat waterproof switches for pump and lights etc.

Something you might want to think about or test is when the boat is in the water and you on it, how does it float / or more to the point how does it sink, which end goes down first. I have ended up moving my bilge pump to the rear hatch on my AI because with the outriggers on, it sinks down in the stearn first so all the water is there rather than the middle hatch.

This may be different with your boat.

Because I sail the AI and now a TI often in fairly windy and rough conditions, I was suprised how much water got in during a trip.

I have used the Rule-Mate automatic pump which has an auto water-level microswitch. It is comforting to have it there, even though the boat has never taken on enough water to activate (except for when I have tested it on purpose).

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I am also thinking of doing some more remote area solo sailing so I have also installed a manual diaphragm type, hand pump with a lever on the forward bulkhead infront of the mirrage drive. My plan is to fit a foot pedal with a strap a bit like the hobie mirage pedal, so I can use my foot to pump it while seated. This is just as a fully manual back-up for extended offshore trips. I am often over 5 nautical miles offshore so it could be a long trip back if I filled up.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 7:49 am 
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Geordie wrote:
Nice work Scrumpy,
Something you might want to think about or test is when the boat is in the water and you on it, how does it float / or more to the point how does it sink, which end goes down first. I have ended up moving my bilge pump to the rear hatch on my AI because with the outriggers on, it sinks down in the stearn first so all the water is there rather than the middle hatch.


That's a good point and one I'd given some thought to. I had my wife take several photographs on my paddle and stationary in order to check how the Outback sat in the water. It sits down to the rear slightly which is why I chose to mount the pump back behind the seat.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 2:27 pm 
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Scrumpy, when you measured our FF was it in simulator mode or were you running the transducer. The bulk of the power (and current draw) is for the transducer. If you were not doing that then your current draw measurement for your FF may not be accurate.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2013 3:05 pm 
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pdxfisher wrote:
Scrumpy, when you measured our FF was it in simulator mode or were you running the transducer. The bulk of the power (and current draw) is for the transducer. If you were not doing that then your current draw measurement for your FF may not be accurate.


Nope, it measured it in normal mode with the transducer ticking away. I thought of that one :lol:

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:11 pm 
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:? Why not fill that space with flotation foam and not bother with a battery and working parts?

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 5:14 pm 
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Nice Thanks for the idea! The Pro angler will be getting this done soon!

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 11:55 pm 
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chas5131 wrote:
:? Why not fill that space with flotation foam and not bother with a battery and working parts?


Who wants a kayak packed full of foam, losing all your internal storage pace?. Filling it with chunks or lengths of foam won't particularly stop a kayak from flooding, becoming unstable and potentially capsizing. Though it'll probably stop your kayak from sinking once it has flooded and capsized.

I already have a battery fitted for my FF/GPS/Nav light, so a battery is not being added for the installation. As for moving parts, a bilge pump contains minimal moving parts and is designed for a long and reliable life, both in and around water, I don't see that as an issue. Weight is a mere 9oz and it takes up no space worth mentioning. It's effectively a $50 fit and forget that will hopefully never be needed, though that'll you'll be very grateful for if it ever required

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