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 Post subject: Hobie Outback Road Rash
PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
Posts: 75
Location: Knox County, TN
Today I had some real fun. I got to pick up my kayak out of the middle of the road. Which was very embarrassing. Luckily I was coming from a dead stop so I was not at full speed.

I checked and double checked before I left. I have been rechecking lately because I have been noticing my straps tend to loosen on my aluminum two piece trailer when hauling the kayaks. It is my opinion that the aluminum two piece trailers flex too much as I was turning left when the kayak slid off.

I've hauled two from Charlotte NC to Knoxville TN which is pretty much a straight highway shot really with no problems at all. But I notice when I drive from my house 3 miles to my local boat ramp my straps are always loose when I get there.

I have tried different positions. Different straps. Different angles. What I believe to be the culprit is the aluminum frame twisting enough around corners that it allows the straps to loosen just long enough for the boat to reposition.

Anyways, I picked up my kayak out of the road and went fishing. No leaks. Still have a dry hull. These Hobies are tanks. I believe I will be investing in a hullavator or a new trailer though.

Looks like I will be trying my hand at plastic welding sooner than I thought.

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I think the worst scratch was actually from the trailer itself than the road.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 10:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
Out of all the scratches this one bothers me most. I just noticed it while I was cleaning and spraying some UV protectant.

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Bummer...


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 11:33 am 
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What kind of straps are you using? I wouldn't think ratchet tie-down straps would come loose...


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 11:54 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
I use yellow Goodyear ratchet type tie downs. I tighten them just until I see the hull start to bend.

I believe it is the trailer as there is a good 2 inches of flex in the front. Maybe that with the uv coating I use. I usually spray it down with protector every other outing.

It makes the kayak really slick.

I really don't like how that trailer flexes though.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 11:58 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
Does anyone have any tips on getting scratches out or methods? I measured the depth with my dial calipers and I don't think it will be a problem, but for appearance sake I would like to make them hard to see at least.

I'm most bummed out about that rub mark right through the lettering. Stinks.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:03 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:40 pm
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I feel for you and your new "beauty marks", but if you are using the crappy carpet covered 2 x 6 bunks that came from Trailex, I would suggest mounting two PVC pipes to nest the outback on......IMO, the hull moves around too much on those loose-goosie Trailex supports.
I modified my Trailex trailer two years ago with 2 1/2" PVC pipes and the outback rides much better and the PVC "sags" to fit the contour of the hull.
I use a 1/4" nylon line to secure the bow and stern (no sliding fore or aft) + my straps are 1 1/2" wide NRS heavy duty straps. The straps have a spring loaded closure that does not slip......no need to make the kayak extra tight to the trailer & PVC pipes/supports as the kayak will not jump out or slide off them.
So my take is, this is a easy fix as the Trailex trailer is basically a really good product.....it's also unfortunate that Hobie does not make the molded supports like they offer for the Pro Anger....IMO, that would be a popular sales item.
Good luck and tight lines!

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Hood River, OR


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:11 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
Thanks Dr.SteelheadCatcher.

My trailer has the rubber on the supports, but is still very slippery against the plastic. Holds tight on aluminum canoes though.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 12:24 pm 
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Understand now.....so, unless the Outback is mounted upside down, it is not "flat on the supports"....and I agree that having a slick surface adds to the issue.
I would still change to parallel PVC pipes as the kayak is easily loaded "right side up".
You can slide the kayak into the PVC pipes w/o any problem....then securing it to the trailer becomes a simple task and is really bullet proof.......I believe in the "kiss principle".......keep it simple, but well engineered.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Hood River, OR


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 1:36 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
Yeah it was upside down. I can't haul it any other way.

Man, this stinks. It's kinda sinking in a little more now.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:40 pm 
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Houston, I think I just figured out the basic "flexing problem"......in your photo, the cross members a significantly smaller aluminum stock extrusions than my cross members.....mine are the same dimensions as the frame material.
A couple of things to consider.....order beefier cross members or use some pressure treated 2 x 4's that are u-bolt connected to the frame.
I bought my trailer from my local Hobie dealer, Kayak Shed in Hood River, OR.....My guess is that Trailex does something special for Hobie and includes the larger aluminum cross members when it's shipped......I spent the extra $$ for the universal pad set #38653300 and these are the crappy self fitting supports......maybe the cost of these included the heavy duty cross bars?
If you send me a private e-mail, I can send you some pictures of my setup....I don't know how to post them on this site.

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Hood River, OR


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:59 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
I sent an email to your address.

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This seems to take a lot of movement out. I will need to make trip to see for sure if it is better.


Last edited by C4PZL0K on Thu May 16, 2013 3:03 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
Posts: 3017
Location: Escondido
Loose or tight, rope or straps, rack or trailer, upside down or right side up, it doesn't matter -- simply pass a line through the drivewell (or scupper as an alternate) and the boat is guaranteed not to go anywhere. 8)
BTW, If you strap too tight you can dent the hull -- I like snug but not tight.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
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Location: Knox County, TN
Yes, I'm just snug.

Trailex should make a snap on attachment that runs from the trailer to the drive well to prevent movement. I would buy it.


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 3:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 27, 2013 10:39 am
Posts: 75
Location: Knox County, TN
Eureka


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I just figured what you guys were saying.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 4:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 12, 2007 5:17 pm
Posts: 679
Location: Auckland NZ
Try putting a half twist in each fall of them there nice tight straps: then they won't do any irritating humming as you drive along.


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