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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2011 11:36 am 
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Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2005 12:55 am
Posts: 356
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
srm wrote:
Zubie wrote:
What are the critical modfications do you think he (we) should undertake first?


Put a pair of EPO rudders on the boat (either first or second generation), install a 6:1 double sided downhaul system, get Harken main and jib sheet systems if not already there, and put a bungee cord from the front crossbar to the diamond wires to keep the jib sheet from getting hung up. After that, the boat is more or less ready for nationals level racing. Not much else needed on these boats.

sm


Zubie, this is great advice, except I don't believe that the EPO rudders are necessary, for your current level. If you are racing at a high level, then I would consider them necessary as they do help quite a bit.

And just my 2 cents about the shock cords.

Since I primarily race I stick to class legal options, which means Harrys method wont work for me. I can see where it has its advantages, and disadvantages, but its still not for me.

I have however made the class legal setup to work they way I think works best.
The biggest disadvantage to the class legal setup is wear and tear on the bungee, both from it being stretched while being used, and from sitting in sun getting UV damage during the winter.

The first thing I do is make a loop for the bungee clip on the trap wire to attach to. Then I jam the rest of the bungee through the hole in the lip. *For the front trap wire run the bungee to the rear of the boat. For the back trap wire run the bungee to the front of the boat. Doing this allows a larger radius for the bungee to curve and come out the lip hole.
Next: Instead of trying to fish the bungee through the eyelet that is attached to the hull lip (which is a PITA), I run the bungee over the eyelet get some tension on it, and tie a double overhand knot, then push it back up into the lip.
Repeat x3

I do this for 3 reasons:
1. Its easy to do, you can do the whole boat in 15-20 min.
2. I can adjust the tension on the trap line by using only one knot, the bungee tends to stretch as the summer goes on..
3. I can easily remove the whole set up for winter without having to cut the bungee, and reinstall it in the spring without having to buy new bungee.

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1992 Hobie Cat 18 #16943
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 31, 2007 6:06 pm
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Location: SE PA/ Chesapeak Bay
To DVL ...

BUMP ...

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HarryMurphey
H-18 mag/ #9458
Fleet 54 Div 11


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 6:45 pm 
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Location: West MI
Thanks Harry

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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 10:36 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 156
Some old stuff in this thread, but I thought I'd add a fun trick for rethreading the bungy through the fairlead of the stock system while on the water after... say you almost pitchpole and launch your crew around the other side of the jib during a race and don't have time to go back in and fix it.

As long as you have enough bungy to relatively rethread it anyway... you can furl up your jib and use the nice thin jib furling line, make a loop, shove the loop through the fairlead, then put the bungy through the loop and pull it back through the fairlead. Tie it off and you're good to go.

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 4:07 am 
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You missed the point ... THE BUNGIE DIDN"T BREAK !!!! and retracked fulling ... did the same thing years earlier on the 'Down the Bay' race w/ Glenn Ross ... we stood the H18 on it's bow's for the first time in a micro-burst ... that' was before I rigged this system ... ( one of the reasons I developed it ...) and BANG ... both bungies broke ... needed to return to the starting beach for repairs/tools .... putting us approx one hour behind the fleet .... that's alot of time to try and make up ...

Most times simple is good ... but if it doesn't do the job .... you may have to re-engineer it to work ...

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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 8:24 am 
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Harry Murphey wrote:
You missed the point ... THE BUNGIE DIDN"T BREAK !!!! and retracked fulling ... did the same thing years earlier on the 'Down the Bay' race w/ Glenn Ross ... we stood the H18 on it's bow's for the first time in a micro-burst ... that' was before I rigged this system ... ( one of the reasons I developed it ...) and BANG ... both bungies broke ... needed to return to the starting beach for repairs/tools .... putting us approx one hour behind the fleet .... that's alot of time to try and make up ...

Most times simple is good ... but if it doesn't do the job .... you may have to re-engineer it to work ...



If this was in response to mine, I wasn't trying to say your blocks are bad or shouldn't be tried. I've got 3 year old bungies that were stock non-magnum style that work with my magnum wings and have done me well, my crew flew around to the opposite side of the boat, the bungy snapped and I had to rethread it on the water. I have used a system similar to what was described in the thread, and it worked well. I raced with a system with the fairlead for crew up near the front crossbar, that worked well in that, when tacking it is very easy for the skipper and crew to identify their trap lines. I can understand all the points made here a couple of years ago, I was just offering a solution to keep in the back of someone's mind that snapped a bungy on the water with a stock system. It only took a couple minutes to fix in semi choppy conditions. There are a lot of things that shouldn't really affect performance in the 18 class rules, I sure as hell wouldn't protest someone for some blocks.

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Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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