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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 8:37 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
I have tweaked the flew connection of the sheets since these were taken.
I just hoisted it yesterday for these pics. The one thing that concerns me is when trying to pull the sail down into the snuffer bag - it bulks up and jams. I can't imagine it going into the bag by itself.

Maybe I have the retrieve line done wrong? The drawing showed the line pass through the sail... my sail had loops on one side only. So the retrieval line is on the inside of the spin sail only. Pulling it down into the bag allows the two bottom loops to slide up to the top "tie off" connect point. So it seems all three points are trying to be sucked into the bag at the same time. Seems it would be smarter if they were off set a bit so that they enter the bag 10-12 inches apart.

Any ideas?

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 7:00 am 
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
The toilet seat looks a little too horizontal. It should tilt down a bit with the snuffer bag hanging. Lets gravity help you a bit.


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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:15 pm 
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Thanks - will try it out - but doesn't seem logically like it would make any difference.

Another view.
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 8:43 pm 
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Rojoyinc wrote:
Thanks - will try it out - but doesn't seem logically like it would make any difference.

Another view.
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Yeah, it's me again. I too, question whether or not will make a difference as many of the later model cats are running the "toilet seat" (Eeww) more horizontal. Know that all the spinnakers I've seen have had their retrieval lines run through three grommets located up the center of the spi rendering a side-to-side balanced retrieval as opposed to the angle of retrieval being all on one side. Have never seen a spi with attachments all on one side.

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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 11:06 pm 
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Location: Netherlands Europe
For your spi life length ,put away the shackles and bolt the rope,s directly to your spi

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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 3:51 pm 
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That's what I was going to say too. I can tie a couple of bowlines quicker than I can use the shackle anyway.

I don't know anything about the recommended rigging of these, but that bolt together cable clamp worries me too.


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 4:07 pm 
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Tom King wrote:
That's what I was going to say too. I can tie a couple of bowlines quicker than I can use the shackle anyway.

I don't know anything about the recommended rigging of these, but that bolt together cable clamp worries me too.
Really. Every sharp edge on your boat will put a hole in your chute. Buy a 12-pack of electrical tape.

What's up with the cable clamp? That's ghetto engineering.


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PostPosted: Sun May 19, 2013 4:56 am 
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Joined: Wed May 24, 2006 12:27 am
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Location: Denmark
Loose all the schakles!
Taper you spi halyard so you only pull/cleat in 5mm line -the rest is just core ...big difference!
install a small lifting block before the cleat with a bungie cord to the mast to prevent the halyard from jamming in the cleat when dropping the spi.
The halyard have to run on top of the tramp. with to stand up blocks installed a little aft of the cleat on SB and Port side between the grommets.( we dont run the line through the grommets -less friction)
also run the halyard through a block attached to one aft beam grommet on a bungie cord running under the tramp to the dolphin striker - it prevent the loos halyard from kinking..(dont know the english word)
Change the out-hall line to 2.5mm spectra and tie it to the stand up block on the pole instead .
Tape up the Hobie noses and the bridle chain plate. or use the provided neopene cover on the chain plate.
a spectra loop on the middle of the spi sheet is better then tying the ends to the spi ,makes the gyping easier.
Dont tie up the final pole position before you have tension on the jib sheet ,or else the jib angle can become off.

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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 8:35 am 
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it is normal to bunch up when you are rigging on the beach - it will just clump at the opening and you'll need to help it into the snuffer by hand a little - but when you're sailing the spinnaker flows into the mouth much easier since you're moving through the water the sail doesn't bunch up - looks rigged correctly - I wouldn't use shackles, just tie the lines on.

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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2013 1:42 pm 
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Location: SE Michigan / NE Indiana
+1 on the tape.

That spinnaker can end up wrapped around all sorts of strange places. You don't want any of them to catch.

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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 9:23 am 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Thanks I had tied the sail - shackles seemed cleaner and easier to add remove when trailing... as some of the lines have to come off. I'll go back to knots. Though my shackles are smooth.

I did use a velcro pad (a camera pad from Canon - given to me I had no idea what to use it for - but works perfect to wrap the bottom area of the forestay). Seems to work well and probably better than tape. We tried it this last weekend. It did go in the bag - I just had to pull harder and not be so scared of hurting it. I had one time when it didn't go in the bag. Winds were extremely light 3-4 up and down from 0. I was surprised we could even fill the spin, but did. We Gib'd with it a couple times.

The one time it didn't snuf well - the winds died and the spi just fell in a clump. I re-hoisted it up.. allowed it to fill a little and snuffed again with success the 2nd try.

I found it WEIRD that the retrieval line is all "inside" (one side) of the spi since all instructions show it laced to and fro. But no way to do that on this sail. Seemed to work well.
hoisting was very easy. Retrieval wasn't bad as long as there was some breeze to stop the spi from just falling in a clump, and I pulled hard enough to force the ball into the bag. Always ended up with the really clean NICE 3 corner display as pictured above. I'll remove the 3 shackles and run it for a while. (maybe clean up my spectra connection in the cable clamp up at the top of the mast. (reason was at the time I didn't have enough line to knot it.) I cut the extra off to short = ( I wish it was 3-4" longer now.


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PostPosted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:27 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Used it in 4mph - was barely enough to fill it but worked well.

Next time out - I removed the shackles and went to knots, I have padded all up front obstructions.

Used the spin for my 2nd time, this time 11mph-14 where we were - heading with wind so seemed like even less.

Raised it and it blew up - the head ripped loose and the top side seam. = (

I was really concerned when the sail arrived. It seemed so thin, like lighter ripstop than most of my sport kites.

It didn't last long. Wondering if I had a bad one? I wished I could get a replacement (wholesale) or half price as a warranty replacement.

Hobie? any chance.

Photos to follow


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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2013 6:48 am 
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Location: Fort Lauderdale, Florida
Oh no! That really sucks man... :(

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 29, 2014 4:35 pm 
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Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
250 bucks and she's almost as good as new. I've since gotten a 18SX and just found a spin for it. Also a Tiger with spin may be in my near future if all goes well.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 2:44 pm 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Mc Lube is your friend.
Last year, I converted my SX18 by adding a spin.
Whooee! what a blast.
Every two or three weeks, I McLube the mouth of the 'toilet seat', and also McLube the spin.
Easier to drop and retrieve the spin when the wind is up.

Your sail damage looks like it was caused by over-tensioning.

I added an extra set of blocks, mounted on the rear part of the front cross bar, to give 2:1 on the spin sheet.

They tell me that (in theory), a spin 'lifts' the bow.

Happy sailing

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