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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 12:02 am
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Location: London
Hi Folks,

Here I am with another question :-)
I searched the forum but nothing came up hence this post.

I have been advised to remove the rudder casting when my Hobie 16 is not in use and is stored at the club due to reasons of theft.
It appears a simple task of simply knocking out the retaining rudder pins after removing the pin clips, however the retaining pins are rather tight and are taking some force to drive out.
Is this normal behavior?
Are the pins tapered so require knocking out in a specific direction i.e knocked out down through the casting or knocked up through it?
What tool(s) do you employ to drive the pins out, a long screwdriver or piece of bar stock of a smaller diameter?

For clarity to explanation:
Rudder Pins
Image

Rudder Casting
Image

Thanks,
SRG


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Use a single cotter key at the top. You can use a removable "safety" pin at the bottom or disregard (we use only a cotter at the top). The risk is in a prolonged turtle... a pin could work loose and you could loose the rudder system.

If removing when not in use, they will get easier to remove. There is no taper. tap from the bottom to drive the pin up. Support the rudder weight to keep it from binding. Grab the top with vise grips (if needed) and pull the pin up and out.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:20 pm 
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They may be slightly bent. Last week at the beach, one of my pins was barely bent and was a pain to get out. I used a spare pin to tap it out slowly. Threw bent one away


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 4:49 pm 
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Thanks Chaps.

I think my pins may be bent they are requiring quite a whack to remove.
Going to employ a bit of brass rod to carefully knock the pins out since I have a bit laying around in the workshop.
If they are bent will either attempt to straighten out on the lathe, fab a new set or purchase replacements.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 18, 2013 5:19 pm 
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On one of my hulls I had to cut the pins out. I cut it in sections, removed the rudder and then pounded the sections out. The hardest one was the rudder casting itself of course. Keep in mind that the pin is exposed on the inside of the casting so if you are hitting it with PB blaster you can get it from in there as well.
I have a place on the beach to keep my 16, but there is a narrow gate. So I break mine down to the bare hulls every time so I can get it through the gate. On my rudder pins, I tapered the down side end and pounded a bit of a flare on the top side end. I don't use any cotter pins at all, instead I opened up the cotter pin holes and put a loop of fine but strong line through the holes. That way I can just grab the loop and pull the pins out without any tools. Helps to wiggle the rudders about a bit while pulling. My boat goes over but does not turtle and I have seen no sign of them wanting to come out when the boat is on it side or working loose in any other situation. If you do this make sure to make the loop short enough that it cannot catch on the heads of the bolts that the rudder pivots up and down on, other wise the loops will catch on the heads sometimes and you will not be able to latch your rudder down.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 6:47 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 10:18 am
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Location: Virginia Beach VA
One of my castings was left for years with the aluminum pin in it and had become salt water fused together. I hack-sawed the pins but was never able to punch out the remains from the casting no matter how hard I hammered. I finally threw the casting away. I always remove the pins now in the off season. I had a quick pin fuse itself in my hiking stick over winter that I had to cut and punch out. Salt water will eventually fuse anything aluminum.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2013 7:36 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 266
Location: Charlottesville, VA
I had a broken and seized aluminum pin a few years ago during beach week. I took the casting to a local machine shop who drilled out the pin remnants.

I'm switching to the stainless pins, with fiberglass ones for surf. I figure the SS pins are part of my anti-pitchpole strategy... those suckers are heavy!

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'00 H16 #104691 - '78 H16 #32692 ex-rental - Old Holsclaw trailer
My Hobie 16 pages


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