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 Post subject: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 8:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:24 pm
Posts: 249
Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
I have had 4 hobie 16's - but just got a H18 used.

It's so different. I put the mast up today ( also different ) I'd love some help
.
1. is the KNOB that the mast rests on... (has a delrin bearing in it it seems?) is it suppose to be screwed in TIGHT?
or allowed to turn? If the later, what stops it from coming out? (seems it didn't take much for the screw to allow it to fall out?

2. when laying the mast down just before pinning it and raising it. (where do you put the (boom?) "V" thingy that points down toward the tramp? Seems it wanted to stab into it. We bent it up (or was it down?) and tried to put it in between the lacing of the center of the tramp. IS this "V" chrome thing suppose to be horizontal and tight or allowed to float up and down?

I THINK The boom connects to this? I've not taken the sail and boom out yet to try (tomorrow).

3. The furling jib? I see a extra rather FINE wire up a pulley on the front forestay. I also see some cord (string?) that has to little hooks that seem to want to hook together? I have no idea what this is for?


I think that's my primary questions. Hm - The front forestay was VERY HARD to connect once the mast was raised. It could only just barely get into the top hole in the connector plate. I had the side shrouds on top hole as well. (loose as can be)
I might need to add extension plate(s?) Also I heard that after you connect the forestay, you should tighten the side shrouds to the next hole or 3rd... Mine appear very tight on the top hole? I hung on the trap to pull the mast over and didn't appear I could move it down a hole. Should they be this tight ? the hobie 16 shrouds are NOT TIGHT. Is this a difference in the two boats?
any idea why?

Dagger boards... have a bungee - to keep them wedged up? where does the bungee go from the dagger board to? where. side shroud? Just tie?

Any detailed pics of a rigged H18 around? Always been in the H16 area on here and not spent much time yet in the H18 area.

Any speedy tips would be much appreciated.
Ron in Grand Rapids, MI


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Wed Jun 26, 2013 11:38 pm 
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Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2012 7:36 pm
Posts: 216
Rojoyinc wrote:
I have had 4 hobie 16's - but just got a H18 used.

It's so different. I put the mast up today ( also different ) I'd love some help
.
1. is the KNOB that the mast rests on... (has a delrin bearing in it it seems?) is it suppose to be screwed in TIGHT?
or allowed to turn? If the later, what stops it from coming out? (seems it didn't take much for the screw to allow it to fall out?

There is a washer, so the screw is tight but the delrin is not. Or there should be...

2. when laying the mast down just before pinning it and raising it. (where do you put the (boom?) "V" thingy that points down toward the tramp? Seems it wanted to stab into it. We bent it up (or was it down?) and tried to put it in between the lacing of the center of the tramp. IS this "V" chrome thing suppose to be horizontal and tight or allowed to float up and down?

The negative mast rotation adjustment is performed by running a line from the boom through the end of the "V" and back to the boom cleat, loose allows the mast to rotate, tight keeps it straight to the boom. It goes above the boom, and should have some play, but be snug.

I THINK The boom connects to this? I've not taken the sail and boom out yet to try (tomorrow).

3. The furling jib? I see a extra rather FINE wire up a pulley on the front forestay. I also see some cord (string?) that has to little hooks that seem to want to hook together? I have no idea what this is for?

That's your jib halyard, The wire attaches to the top of the Jib and you feed it through the zipper channel of the luff of the jib, the hooks are what are called "sister clips" to allow you to tighten your halyard and then remove the extra, rather than stuff it into the zipper. Many of us have done away with the sister clips, because if they come apart and the top of the forstay with the mast up, you're in poor shape.


I think that's my primary questions. Hm - The front forestay was VERY HARD to connect once the mast was raised. It could only just barely get into the top hole in the connector plate. I had the side shrouds on top hole as well. (loose as can be)
I might need to add extension plate(s?) Also I heard that after you connect the forestay, you should tighten the side shrouds to the next hole or 3rd... Mine appear very tight on the top hole? I hung on the trap to pull the mast over and didn't appear I could move it down a hole. Should they be this tight ? the hobie 16 shrouds are NOT TIGHT. Is this a difference in the two boats?
any idea why?

Both boats should be tight, the 18 is tight before you raise the sails, the 16 is tight because you pull on the jib halyard and this also tightens up your rig. Two reasons your shrouds are tight at the top hole, one is that you have new rigging that is probably shorter than older rigging with old 6 hole or less shroud adjusters instead of 10 hole, the other posibility is that the shrouds were hung up on the top of the mast and artificially shorter than they should be. When I'm rigged up, my forestay comes through the jib furler so that it is barely coming out of the bottom of the jib furler, and sits 3 or 4 holes down on the longer style shroud adjusters.

Dagger boards... have a bungee - to keep them wedged up? where does the bungee go from the dagger board to? where. side shroud? Just tie?
Bungee goes to a ring or line tied through a hole in the outer deck lip just in front of the crossbar on each hole. They are held up for beaching and racing/speed downwind.

Any detailed pics of a rigged H18 around? Always been in the H16 area on here and not spent much time yet in the H18 area.

There are many hobie 18 resources, Phil Berman wrote a few books, the hobie site and this forum have a number of places to look things up.
A number of people have picked up boats that need work over the past few months and have detailed issues with redline hulls, softspot repair, and other adjustments.

The 18 is a great boat!



Any speedy tips would be much appreciated.
Ron in Grand Rapids, MI

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Tom
Fleet 259, Central Coast CA
H18 ('81)
H18 ('85)
H20 ('97)
H18 ('78)


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 1:27 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:15 pm
Posts: 1195
Location: Oakland, CA
Print the assembly manual (link below) and all your questions should be answered.

http://static.hobiecat.com/digital_asse ... Manual.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 7:15 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 23, 2009 6:24 pm
Posts: 249
Location: Grand Rapids, MICHIGAN
Had it - done that - Still really not getting the furl and all that extra gizmiss up on the forestay.
will try and mount the boom and just figure it out this afternoon.


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 9:26 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:50 am
Posts: 378
Rojoyinc wrote:
Had it - done that - Still really not getting the furl and all that extra gizmiss up on the forestay.
will try and mount the boom and just figure it out this afternoon.


The mast rotator (V-thingy) is critical to the performance of the boat. It can be folded all the way up when you're raising and lowering the mast. As a general rule of thumb, Upwind you want the mast rotator pointing at the shroud and downwind it should be at 90 degrees (or more). You control the amount of mast rotation by running the line through the hole at the end of the rotation arm, then back through the cleat on top of the boom. I'll try and get you some pictures.


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
The H18 jib setup is pretty straight forward, the problem is that it's completely different from the H16 setup, so if you're coming from a H16, you need to forget everything you already know.

Pre-tension the rig so the forestay is tight (either tighten the shrouds, or use the mainsheet to load the forestay). The small diameter wire and line are your jib halyard. Connect the shackle on the end of the wire halyard to the grommet at the head of the jib. Hoist the jib and zip the luff around the forestay (the jib halyard should also be lead inside the jib luff pocket). When you get the jib 90% of the way up, shackle the tack of the jib to the forestay adjuster. There should be a second line (the jib tensioner line) which is about 3/16" diameter and about two feet long. Tie that line to the jib tack shackle. Then lead the line up to the pulley on the wire portion of the halyard and back down to the cleat riveted to the jib tack. Tension the halyard to final setting and tie off the tensioner line. Then untie the thin jib halyard line, coil and stow it in the tramp pouch. Zip the jib luff down to the bottom.

sm


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Thu Jun 27, 2013 3:32 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 24, 2009 5:50 am
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Royjoyinc,

Further to your earlier post, your shroud report is somewhat troubling. None of the shrouds should be "tight"on a Hobie 18. My suggestion would to first confirm you don't have a the chain plate sticking out of the bottom of the jib furler housing. That out of the way, confirm you have the correct mast rake by measuring 4 feet up from the bottom of the mast and making a mark, then carefully measuring the distance from your mark to the clevis pins (on each hull) of your bridal forestay - You need to between 105" and 107". If you're rake doesn't fall within this range (which I should point out is FAR less than that of a Hobie 16), that might help explain the shroud tightness. At most your side shrouds should be "snug". Anything more than that i.e., anything that might limit your mast from rotating at least 90 degrees, is a problem.

Brian


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 25, 2011 3:15 pm
Posts: 610
Location: Buffalo, NY
Rojoyinc,

I recommend watching the following two videos on rigging by jmecky. They were incredibly helpful for me in rigging my 18 for the first time. Even so, it took me a few viewings and a few setups to figure out the jib halyard. Also, if your 18 is old enough, you may have what's referred to as the "flipper" at the top of the mast. If so, you need to make sure that you don't hoist the main too far, or the flipper will catch it and prevent it from hooking.

Another thing that confused me for a while was how exactly to use the mast rotator. Basically, there's a line that goes from your boom, through the end of the "v" in the mast rotator and back into a jam cleat on the boom. The tighter you pull that line, the less rotation, the less mast bend and the fuller the sail.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl7kZOQ5WQk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... 31cy8&NR=1

On the note of the shrouds, I just replace mine and encountered your same situation. My shroud adjusters have 7 holes, and I was unable to pin the forestay because the shrouds were so much shorter. I put the old ones back on and can now pin the shrouds on the 3rd (center) hole with the forestay at the top hole. Apparently I need a new set of shroud adjusters to make the new shrouds work. However, the parts guide still lists these as 7 hole adjusters, so someone else will have to let us know if 20830010 is still the right part number.

_________________
Mike
Image
'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238


Last edited by SabresfortheCup on Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Fri Jun 28, 2013 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 21, 2003 7:14 pm
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Location: West MI
Ron, Contact me offline. There are a lot of Hobie 18 owners in the West Michigan area that can help you out with your rigging.

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1989 Hobie 18 Worlds Boat, Magnum Wings & Spinnaker
1987 Hobie Holder 20 #273

dale.vanlopik"at"att"dot"net


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 5:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Apr 14, 2012 6:43 pm
Posts: 31
I started connecting my forstay at the bridal wires hull connection.It was hard to hold up the furler and pull down the forstay at the same time.With the hull bridal connection you have the furler to hang on to.The mast needs to rotate freely though.Another thing that really helped me on here was using a 1/8 th inch line and going through the pulley on the jib not around it.The jib doesn't hang up on the pulley all the time.


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 Post subject: Re: Tips on H18? setup
PostPosted: Mon Jul 01, 2013 7:27 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Q18 wrote:
I started connecting my forstay at the bridal wires hull connection.


We do this now also. I find it to be a lot better since it's much easier for the crew to connect the bridle wires to the bow tangs than to try to hold up the furler with one hand and connect the forestay with the other. It also reduces the chance of damaging the bridle wires because the furler is never dropped or allowed to hang from the bridles which can put a kink in the wires.

sm


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