I have had 4 hobie 16's - but just got a H18 used.
It's so different. I put the mast up today ( also different ) I'd love some help
1. is the KNOB that the mast rests on... (has a delrin bearing in it it seems?) is it suppose to be screwed in TIGHT?
or allowed to turn? If the later, what stops it from coming out? (seems it didn't take much for the screw to allow it to fall out?
There is a washer, so the screw is tight but the delrin is not. Or there should be...
2. when laying the mast down just before pinning it and raising it. (where do you put the (boom?) "V" thingy that points down toward the tramp? Seems it wanted to stab into it. We bent it up (or was it down?) and tried to put it in between the lacing of the center of the tramp. IS this "V" chrome thing suppose to be horizontal and tight or allowed to float up and down?
The negative mast rotation adjustment is performed by running a line from the boom through the end of the "V" and back to the boom cleat, loose allows the mast to rotate, tight keeps it straight to the boom. It goes above the boom, and should have some play, but be snug.
I THINK The boom connects to this? I've not taken the sail and boom out yet to try (tomorrow).
3. The furling jib? I see a extra rather FINE wire up a pulley on the front forestay. I also see some cord (string?) that has to little hooks that seem to want to hook together? I have no idea what this is for?
That's your jib halyard, The wire attaches to the top of the Jib and you feed it through the zipper channel of the luff of the jib, the hooks are what are called "sister clips" to allow you to tighten your halyard and then remove the extra, rather than stuff it into the zipper. Many of us have done away with the sister clips, because if they come apart and the top of the forstay with the mast up, you're in poor shape.
I think that's my primary questions. Hm - The front forestay was VERY HARD to connect once the mast was raised. It could only just barely get into the top hole in the connector plate. I had the side shrouds on top hole as well. (loose as can be)
I might need to add extension plate(s?) Also I heard that after you connect the forestay, you should tighten the side shrouds to the next hole or 3rd... Mine appear very tight on the top hole? I hung on the trap to pull the mast over and didn't appear I could move it down a hole. Should they be this tight ? the hobie 16 shrouds are NOT TIGHT. Is this a difference in the two boats?
any idea why?
Both boats should be tight, the 18 is tight before you raise the sails, the 16 is tight because you pull on the jib halyard and this also tightens up your rig. Two reasons your shrouds are tight at the top hole, one is that you have new rigging that is probably shorter than older rigging with old 6 hole or less shroud adjusters instead of 10 hole, the other posibility is that the shrouds were hung up on the top of the mast and artificially shorter than they should be. When I'm rigged up, my forestay comes through the jib furler so that it is barely coming out of the bottom of the jib furler, and sits 3 or 4 holes down on the longer style shroud adjusters.
Dagger boards... have a bungee - to keep them wedged up? where does the bungee go from the dagger board to? where. side shroud? Just tie?
Bungee goes to a ring or line tied through a hole in the outer deck lip just in front of the crossbar on each hole. They are held up for beaching and racing/speed downwind.
Any detailed pics of a rigged H18 around? Always been in the H16 area on here and not spent much time yet in the H18 area.
There are many hobie 18 resources, Phil Berman wrote a few books, the hobie site and this forum have a number of places to look things up.
A number of people have picked up boats that need work over the past few months and have detailed issues with redline hulls, softspot repair, and other adjustments.
The 18 is a great boat!
Any speedy tips would be much appreciated.
Ron in Grand Rapids, MI