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PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 10:36 am 
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I have tried extending the pedals to number 7 position, but with my long legs, the fins still slap the hull in the rear seating position on the Oasis. Mirage Drive fins in the forward seating position do not slap the hull, due to hull shape. Question, other than training myself to not extend my legs all the way, is there an adjustment that can be made with the front and rear cables on the drive to prevent them from extending 100%


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 9:46 am 
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I have the same problem. Use setting #7 as I'm 6'3".

I have learned to just not push all the way forward as I hate the clunking as well as the dent/damage in the plastic just below the sail mount area that it causes. :(

Would love to know if there is a solution other than me shortening my stroke....


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:43 am 
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Adjusting the cables will not help. You will need to adjust your pedal stroke or sit in the front.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 12:08 pm 
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There is one other thing you can do. Are you wearing shoes? Switch to a pair with thinner soles, or go barefoot once in the yak.

If you're already barefoot, then you're at the limit. But if not, you'd be surprised how much you can shorten your stroke by reducing the sole thickness of your shoes.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 1:06 am 
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I notice that the fins slap the hull in the rear seat on my tandem oasis regardless of who is sitting in that seat, what setting is being used or whether barefoot or in shoes! I would love to know how to reduce this noise! It isn't terribly disruptive but is definitely noisier than I want on a peaceful evening on the water!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:01 am 
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Use a shorter stroke might be the only solution...and if you experiment with the shorter stroke, you should find the kayak will move just as fast as with a longer stroke.
Some users complain that their ProAngler is hard to get started moving forward from a dead stop.....using a quick-short "flutter stroke" will start craft moving sooner than using a longer stroke.
So, try the shorter stroke with your Oasis and I believe your speed will be acceptable and the hull slapping stops. 8)

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Hood River, OR


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 8:27 am 
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I agree strongly with Dr Catcher. I learned very quickly how to get my PA14 moving from a dead stop. Three- to four-inch rapid strokes are the key, with strokes lengthening as speed builds. I don't think I've ever slapped the hull, because I never hit the stops with the pedals.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:02 am 
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RockyRaab wrote:
I agree strongly with Dr Catcher. I learned very quickly how to get my PA14 moving from a dead stop. Three- to four-inch rapid strokes are the key, with strokes lengthening as speed builds. I don't think I've ever slapped the hull, because I never hit the stops with the pedals.


2X, the process of leg strokes is a simple memory of muscle.. OR learning curve... Takes time to train the muscle to stop early... At some point your brain will take over and stop you early in the stroke... It is the only solution at this time without a hull redesign which is not necessary.

Good luck in training the brain!! Have fun and don't sweat the small stuff.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 2:28 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 15, 2013 7:29 am
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I've experienced this same "slapping" issue with my Oasis. I use Turbo fins in the back and my wife uses the standard fins in the front. Hers do not make a sound but mine will slap the hull if I don't limit my extension. I'm 5'10 so it's not like I'm a tall guy. It's not a big deal to limit your extension, but I suppose I would prefer not to have to if I were given a choice. Not for any reason other than I wouldn't have to think about it.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 10:45 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Of course with the current Oasis, the front cockpit is longer. Coincidentally, the boat is better balanced and goes faster with the larger (or heavier) person in the front seat.

There are a couple of other ways you can get leg space if you've maxed out the pedal adjustments. One is to position your foot higher on the pedal. The other is to change seat backs. I use the older 2006 seat backs exclusively -- no lumbar support and less cushioning, the support is great (at least for me). You can special order these seats through your dealer (not listed in the catalog though). Most of them come with a huge detachable fanny pack on the back that will hold your lunch and a couple of water bottles.

At any rate, this will give you almost an extra inch.

If you're only slapping the hull on one side, you might check your fin alignment. The fins should be within a couple of degrees of straight up with the pedals even (obviously in the same pedal slots). This can be adjusted with the pedals even, by loosening one side of the corresponding chain cable and tightening the other. Be sure not to over-snug or you'll add unnecessary friction and premature wear to your parts. You should have about 1/8" pinch at the front cable and 3/16 at the rear. (Idler should also have about 1/8" squeeze per side).

BTW, you can adjust your pedals forward a small amount IF you have more cable threads showing on the rear cables than the front. In this case, you would loosen all 3 cables and re-tighten starting with the idler, then front cable, then rear cable. The idea is to rock the drums forward within the limits of the available threads. If you get 1/4" adjustment on the threads, this might translate up to 3/4" adjustment at the pedals. If you're not comfortable working on the Drive better not to try it.

I'm sure everyone here knows that one pedal slot equals about 2 inches at the pedals. The further the pedals are forward from the #5 position the more power you loose due to angular disadvantage, but the more your legs have to bend, the more power you lose for the same reason. To the extent you can work these elements in your favor, you can gain extra power and efficiency. 8)


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 2:21 pm 
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Dr.SteelheadCatcher wrote:
Use a shorter stroke might be the only solution...and if you experiment with the shorter stroke, you should find the kayak will move just as fast as with a longer stroke.

Actually I find that short and faster strokes make the Oasis move much faster than long strokes.

It's similar to the Atomic split fins I use for diving: It's not the power you put into the stroke that makes you fast, it's the frequency you can maintain. I assume that you create a couple of very efficient vortices that way, but whatever it is, it's pretty fast.

Klaus


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