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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 3:11 pm 
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Hi, everyone,

I finally finished the trailer conversion I've been thinking about all winter. I went with 3" gray PVC pipes mounted to an EZ loader 1150 PWC trailer. I added a kind of shock absorbing system after reading about cracked hulls and such. I'll post details in a follow-up posting; I'm using Tapatalk now so I can post some pics.


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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 3:14 pm 
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 3:21 pm 
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 4:26 pm 
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Nice work! A few questions.... Do you use the hand crank winch? How far off the back do the pipes and kayak hang? Any loaded pictures?


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 5:36 pm 
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Great pics!

Could you say why you used the double height of wood? Is there an optimum height for your boat on a trailer?


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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 6:08 pm 
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Location: Virginia
Nice work. Should work great. Keep us posted on results.

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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2013 3:24 am 
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Yakiddy Yak wrote:
Great pics!

Could you say why you used the double height of wood? Is there an optimum height for your boat on a trailer?


Looks like a bushing for some cushioning between the wood.


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 6:41 pm 
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Hi, everyone,

Thanks for your comments and questions! And now for a few answers:

Calico Jack, I plan on using the winch, the pipes hang off the back about 3 feet, the kayak will overhang the end of he pipes by about 1 foot, and I'll post some pics of the yak loaded once I pick it up this weekend! And you're right, those are bushings, rubber compression springs actually, that I sandwiched between the two boards to make a kind of shock absorber - we'll see how well it works.

Yakkidy Yak, I don't know if there's an optimum height; I did want the shock absorption, and I also plan to work on the kayak while it's on the trailer.

I left the pipes long on purpose, as I'm planning to attach another length of pipe to each one, to make a pipe-slide for launching the PA. What I plan to do is back the trailer down the ramp until its wheels are just touching the water, then attach the extra pipe lengths and slide the yak into the water. Sounds a little hairbrained I know, but I think it might just work. I came up with it after I read about dunking the trailer in salt water and what it could do to the bearings, electrical, etc. Anyway, I plan to use the winch to drag it back up the pipe-slide onto the trailer once the fishing's over. I'll post pics soon and let everyone know how it works.


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PostPosted: Tue May 14, 2013 7:53 pm 
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Rubber compression springs? Those are the black things? Off to Google...

I was thinking I needed to add something to my setup to soften the ride and I'm at the stage just before adding the pipes. I was thinking of gluing the black waterproof carpet underlay on the pipes for the kayak to rest on (I happen to have some). Too hokey?

I was thinking maybe some of that between the pipes and the wood but figured it'd probably wouldn't do much and let the pipes wobble side to side.

Anyone else use something to pad their ride? I'm not sure I'm up to rigging springs... :oops:


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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:48 pm 
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Hi, Yakkidy,

I got the springs at McMaster-Carr; I'll post the part number. I basically just ran a bolt through the top board, the spring, then the bottom board, then tightened the nut until the spring was compressed to about 3/4 of an inch. I sat on the board and bounced a little; seemed like enough springiness.

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PostPosted: Thu May 16, 2013 2:58 pm 
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McMaster.com, p/n 9724K17


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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 4:04 am 
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Have a picture with the kayak sitting on the trailer?


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PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2013 6:48 pm 
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I'll try and post a pic with the kayak loaded this weekend - it worked great!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 7:19 am 
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Location: Wantirna South VIC Australia
Larrysg01,
That's a nice looking trailer.
Have you managed to grab some pics with it loaded.

What distance is the spacing between the PVC pipe?

Regards,
Ian

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 09, 2013 11:19 pm 
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Nice!

FWIW, I don't think you need any extra PVC to launuch the boat. If you back up until your trailer tires are right at the water line as you have planned, you should have more that enough water depth at the tail of the yak to float it. The PA has a very shallow draft and only needs a few inches of water to float. I do this all the time with my converted HF trailer. Also, I don't think you need the winch either. I used to use a rope and pullies to pull the PA on to the trailer. I've found it easier to park my rig at the side of the ramp, roll the PA on it's side to install the wheels, then wheel it to the trailer. The wheels lift the back of the PA off the groud enough so that it's easy to pick up the back end and push the yak on to the trainler. I've found this easier than backing the tralier to the water and dealing with the rope and pullies as well as the rushed crowds at the ramp at the end of the day.

Good luck.

Bob


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