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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 8:50 am 
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Joined: Wed May 11, 2011 3:55 am
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Location: Dumfries, SW Scotland
I recently bought a used i12s. I'm not using it at the moment, but am trying to learn my way around the parts, and thinking about what bits to buy. I thought a spare mast would be a good thing to have, but this means I need to be sure which version of the drive I have.

First question: going by this photo from the FAQ page:
Image
- I definitely have the V2 version. This puzzled me a bit, because the parts catalogue says V2 came out in 2009. The serial number of my boat ends in 08, which I thought was the year of manufacture.

Second question: If I do have a V2 Mirage drive, the masts should be threaded. I took off one of the fins, and tried to unscrew the mast. It's not moving. Is it just seized up from never having been unscrewed, or is it, after all, the older version, and needs to be detached some other way? If I can't change a mast in my living room, I can see problems if I ever damage one on a trip.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Mary


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 9:37 am 
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Sometimes people upgrade older drives. The most common upgrade is probably the sprocket (where the mast threads in) but it's remotely possible that the previous owner upgraded the drum and cables without upgrading the sprockets.

The V2 sprockets have a brass insert that the mast threads into, while the V1 sprocket is just plastic with a setscrew and a flat spot on the mast for the setscrew to bite into.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 10:01 am 
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Location: Dumfries, SW Scotland
rx7vt wrote:
The V2 sprockets have a brass insert that the mast threads into, while the V1 sprocket is just plastic with a setscrew and a flat spot on the mast for the setscrew to bite into.


Thanks for that, rx7vt. With that info, I located the setscrew, removed the mast and confirmed that I have a V1 sprocket. Very helpful.

Mary


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 28, 2012 4:24 pm 
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If it were me (and it's not), I'd consider buying an upgrade kit to give yourself the V2 sprockets and masts, especially if you're contemplating ST Turbo fins. That way, you're much less likely to need a spare. As long as you don't lose the mast, most damage is field recoverable. I'm sure there are plenty of other opinions, but that's my $0.02.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 1:31 am 
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Location: Dumfries, SW Scotland
Thanks for the input. I've been wondering about that, since it seems my drum and sprockets are out-of-synch. I need to check the cost, and also do more reading on what's involved in making the change. I'm not very mechanical, and I'm having to hunt through the forum to find out how to do things. But there is the advantage that, the more I work on my Mirage drive at home, the better prepared I'll be to sort out any problems that arise on the water.

I don't plan on getting Turbo fins, but may switch to the ST. From what I've read, they give improved performance over the standard fins, for very little extra effort, and don't need a mast change.

Mary


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 3:44 am 
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Fair enough. The only reason I mentioned it is because if you're going to upgrade the sprockets and masts, that's the lowest cost opportunity to make the switch. Both I and my wife use the Turbos and love them.

Upgrade Kit

Looks like at this retailer, the upgrade to V2 sprocket and mast is the same regardless of mast length, and the extra cost for the longer fins is $6.

If you have the chance, try a kayak with the turbos.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 2:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2005 10:46 pm
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Location: Escondido
Mary, congratulations on your new Hobie! IMO, an extra mast is an unnecessary expense. First of all, your chance of breaking one with standard or ST fins is VERY small. If somehow you do manage to do so, it's better to return to shore one fined and make the repair at home, at which time you can order what you need. Finally if you should decide to upgrade to the V2 sprockets later your unused spare mast becomes obsolete.

I like the ST fins for you. The performance is good, the price is better and the installation is very simple.

There are a few things you should watch on your V1 sprockets.
1. Check each time to make sure your Allenhead mast retaining screw isn't backing out. If it does, use some Loctite Blue to give it a better grip.

2. Check to make sure your masts don't wiggle. If they do, double check your screw and make sure the flat spot (on the mast) is fully facing the screw (you can mark the location with a permanent marker on the mast).

3. Check for any signs of "wallowing" due to enlargement at the mast hole entrance to the sprocket. If this happens, remove the mast and screw, clean everything up and epoxy the whole assembly together (including the screw).

Eventually you may want to upgrade to V2 sprockets and masts, but there is no need to rush into it as long as the V1 sprockets are doing the job.

V1 sprockets and masts perform exactly the same as the V2s. Almost all parts failures occur gradually as the screw backs out (unnoticed), the mast loosens and starts to slide out, eventually falling out. Along the way it can enlarge the sprocket opening to where the sprocket needs replacement.

Now that you know these things, you know what to watch for and how to prevent problems. I recommend you save your money for something else! In fact, unless you're going on an extended trip, I think it's more productive to learn how to effectively use a "failed" Mirage Drive than carry tools and spare parts. Usually one fin will get you back easier than paddling. Besides, on-the-water repairs with wet hands and a rocking boat with no work bench is tough. If you can do that, you're a much better mechanic than I. The only thing you might need is a set of dykes to cut the split ring that holds a disabled fin on (if you can't remove it by hand -- on the water)! 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2012 3:41 pm 
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Location: Dumfries, SW Scotland
Thank you for the advice, rx7vt and Roadrunner. I'll keep it all in mind.

I'm not well placed to go kayaking at the moment - no car, live in an inconvenient location etc. Next year when I retire, I'll be moving to a house where I'll have storage space, and I plan to get a car. I was intending to buy an i12s then, since I think it's the most suitable Hobie for my needs. Then a used one came up on Ebay, located a 3-hour train ride from me, and I couldn't resist buying it. I hauled it home single-handed, but it's a load for a 60+ female, especially the stairs to my 3rd-floor apartment. Unless I can arrange a joint trip with a helpful driver friend, it may not see water for a while. So I'm spending the time learning my way around it.

Mary


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 12, 2013 7:57 pm 
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Mary, I have the same problem. I bought a 2008 Outback new from a dealer and just now am upgrading to the turbo fins. I have a V2 drive also, but the sprokets are V1 and are not threaded. I'm wondering if there were some intermediate versions in 2008.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 2:28 pm 
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Location: Escondido
Jr, welcome to the forum. 2008 was a transition year -- V-2 drums and cables were used but threaded sprockets and masts were not yet in production (until 2009). The jump to Turbos is a little different than STs. Because you have to buy new masts either way, the only additional components needed are V-2 sprockets. IMO, the extra minor expense of sprockets is warranted by the V-2 reliability improvement -- especially with Turbos because they can put more load on the Drive. If you already ordered the V-1 masts, you might see if your dealer will swap for the V-2s. If not, the V-1s will work fine -- just keep an eye on them.

A disadvantage of switching to V-2 sprockets for some people is having to install them and re-tune the cables. 8)


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