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 Post subject: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 5:31 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 2:51 pm
Posts: 23
Location: St Louis
I just bought a PA14 and currently use it with a SUT200 trailer. Question: Can I transport my PA14 upside down on the rails? I currently strap it on with the hull side down, but it is difficult to keep it from shifting/sliding on the bunks, even though I have the bunks heavily padded. I carry my Outbacks upside down on this trailer and they hold securely. Many thanks for the help.


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 6:51 pm 
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Hobie Team Member

Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:14 pm
Posts: 99
Location: Gales Ferry Connecticut
fishalot, I'm not an expert but what I have seen on the forum is the PA 14 should be transported right side up. The bottom seems to be the strongest part of the Yak.

Tim

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Fishing is not a matter of life or death... It's much more important than that!


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Fri Jul 19, 2013 2:26 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 25, 2011 11:02 am
Posts: 164
Location: Central New York
You can look up several threads of how people have modified their trailers to better suit transporting the Pro Angler. PVC pipe seems to be a popular method or you can get the Hobie cradles .

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MrGreen


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 4:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 5:45 pm
Posts: 6
I think this from Hobie?

You can store your kayak upside down resting on two crossbars. The rails of the kayak are very stiff and can support the weight easily. Padded crossbars will reduce the chance of any scratches or marks on the rails.

If you must store it right side up, use cradles or something that is shaped to the contour of the hull. It the kayak is resting right side up with little to no support, this puts the entire weight of the kayak on one point on the bottom and possibly cause a flat area to develop. We do offer custom molded cradles for the Adventure Island and the Pro Angler.


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 6:02 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 2:51 pm
Posts: 23
Location: St Louis
Many thanks for the info. I strapped it rail side down and it works very well-no more sliding from side to side and I only need one strap fore and aft. Unloading is done easily: I simply roll it back to hull side down and slide it off the back of the trailer into the water. Loading is also painless. I lift one end onto the trailer, then the other, and then roll it over onto the rails. I have about 3" of high density foam rubber under the carpet on the 2X4's that really helps stabilize the boat. I also make certain to use an additional strap around the seat to augment the snap strap and ensure it stays in a closed position.


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 04, 2013 5:08 pm
Posts: 49
You probably already know this but Hobie sells saddles to mount on the SUT. I have them and they work fine. Although expensive you can store your boat on them for extended periods which make them worth it for me.


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:07 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:40 pm
Posts: 538
I bought a SUT-200AI trailer and made some changes after seeing how my PA14 was located on it.
Instead of investing in the Hobie PA saddles, I used parallel, 2.875" OD, thick wall, PVC pipes to cradle the kayak on......easy to store and launch/recover after fishing....I also like that the PVC "sags" to conform to the loaded hull shape.
The aluminum cross bars are separated about 67" per Hobie's recommendation for the saddle spacing......the aft crossbar is located with about 1" clearance from the trailer fender so there is no issue(on the back half of the fender).
I relocated the axle so it's 60" in from the end of the trailer.....this positioned the axle so it's just aft of the seat and closer to the center of the load......and makes it easier to back down as the wheel base is reduced......helps to reduce the tongue weight as I have a spare tire and winch close to the coupler.
The end of my PA is now even with the end of the trailer when loaded.....I relocated/moved the trailer lights to a 2" x 2" pressure treated board that is "U" bolted with wing nuts to the PA rear carrying bar...easy on/off.....I used a 18" trailer wiring plug kit to extend the wiring and unplug it for launching.
I felt this was a good safety improvement as the lights are now easily visible from behind, not low and subject to breakage and a cheap $12.00 investment/upgrade.
Once you get into "tweaking" your trailer, it becomes a personal preference exercise :wink:

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Hood River, OR


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 5:19 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 2:51 pm
Posts: 23
Location: St Louis
Wow, thanks for the great info Dr. Steel head. I like your ideas, especially the PVC supports. Did the PVC pipe inhibit the rail flex? Is it important for the trailer to have that flexing for structural integrity? I think I will try your ideas. And you are spot on with the lights-I dangle a flag from the rear handle. Many thanks.


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 6:19 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 10, 2009 2:40 pm
Posts: 538
Fishalot.....the trailer still flexes when loaded with the PA-14....keep in mind the cross bars are about 67" apart where the PVC pipes are connected........I like this much better than the 2 x 4 parallel lumber solution as they do not flex.
I run 12 - 13 psi in the tires....just under the 15 psi max recommended by Trailex so there is a "softer ride".

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Dr.SteelheadCatcher
Hood River, OR


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 Post subject: Re: Transporting PA14
PostPosted: Sun Jul 21, 2013 3:19 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jun 21, 2013 2:51 pm
Posts: 23
Location: St Louis
Thanks-I now have my project for Monday morning.


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