I bought a SUT-200AI trailer and made some changes after seeing how my PA14 was located on it.
Instead of investing in the Hobie PA saddles, I used parallel, 2.875" OD, thick wall, PVC pipes to cradle the kayak on......easy to store and launch/recover after fishing....I also like that the PVC "sags" to conform to the loaded hull shape.
The aluminum cross bars are separated about 67" per Hobie's recommendation for the saddle spacing......the aft crossbar is located with about 1" clearance from the trailer fender so there is no issue(on the back half of the fender).
I relocated the axle so it's 60" in from the end of the trailer.....this positioned the axle so it's just aft of the seat and closer to the center of the load......and makes it easier to back down as the wheel base is reduced......helps to reduce the tongue weight as I have a spare tire and winch close to the coupler.
The end of my PA is now even with the end of the trailer when loaded.....I relocated/moved the trailer lights to a 2" x 2" pressure treated board that is "U" bolted with wing nuts to the PA rear carrying bar...easy on/off.....I used a 18" trailer wiring plug kit to extend the wiring and unplug it for launching.
I felt this was a good safety improvement as the lights are now easily visible from behind, not low and subject to breakage and a cheap $12.00 investment/upgrade.
Once you get into "tweaking" your trailer, it becomes a personal preference exercise