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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 2:44 am 
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i wouldn't worry about vibration with the suzuki 2.5 - its a tiny little 4 stroke that's suprisingly smooth.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 6:50 am 
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NOHUHU wrote:
Agreed on the v1 Akas!

Someone more clever than me could figure all kinds of accessory mounts using a v2 TI crosstube and pivoting aka insert.

But everything from a wing seat to a motor to Hakas could be attached with the right Railblaza bases. Also these things can face other directions, not just straight up.

Their use on one of those slim trackmount systems makes things a little more interesting, still.

The railmounts have just enuff grip for the rod holders and cameras. Anything with more torque would just require a couple screws or a rivet to prevent them from turning. As a precaution, I would be comfortable with that.

Just don't use wd40 on them! :lol:


What's the difference in v1 & v2 akas?


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 11:47 am 
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Location: Kailua 96734
V1 is the older style, using a stainless steel pin to hold them on the boat.

There was no danger of these detaching on the water.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 11:55 am 
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I'm not sure if it would be safe to mount it on the AKAs since the outboard generates a lot of thrust. I used Rudy's design and was able to mount a 2.3 HP honda to the AI. It works great, but the carbon monoxide can get to you if you're slow trolling for too long. I sit towards the front when that happens.

There's still a little tweaking that needs to be done.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 1:58 pm 
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nudling wrote:
I'm not sure if it would be safe to mount it on the AKAs since the outboard generates a lot of thrust. I used Rudy's design and was able to mount a 2.3 HP honda to the AI. It works great, but the carbon monoxide can get to you if you're slow trolling for too long. I sit towards the front when that happens.

There's still a little tweaking that needs to be done.



What is "Rudy's design"?


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2013 6:59 pm 
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nudling wrote:
I'm not sure if it would be safe to mount it on the AKAs since the outboard generates a lot of thrust. I used Rudy's design and was able to mount a 2.3 HP honda to the AI. It works great, but the carbon monoxide can get to you if you're slow trolling for too long. I sit towards the front when that happens.

There's still a little tweaking that needs to be done.
You're concern would be breaking the Aka pins?

Thinking about this, if you're lucky it would collapse forward under the 75lb of thrust. :o Otherwise, your motor might just rip your hull a new bung-hole.

I guess taking a few precautions would be in order.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 12:21 am 
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NOHUHU wrote:
You're concern would be breaking the Aka pins?


With the amount of force that is generated from the outboard, something is going to give and it's not going to hold up over time. I'd even hesitate to attach a tow-rope to the AKAs without some type of shock absorber attached to the line.

Here's how it currently looks.

Image

It's a great mod and I highly recommend it. It decreases the time otw and allows me to focus primarily on fishing.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 5:40 pm 
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The outboard doesn't really generate that much force on the yak--since the yak slides in the water. Even under the heaviest acceleration there isn't that much going forward...

Rudy's design mounts the motor on the rod holders and resting on the akas- which has seemed dicey to me as those rod holders are paper thin.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 5:55 pm 
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Chopcat, in the photo you posted of your TI... You have an interesting seat. That's not a Hobie product is it? What kind of seat is that?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:03 pm 
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coachstevo wrote:
The outboard doesn't really generate that much force on the yak--since the yak slides in the water. Even under the heaviest acceleration there isn't that much going forward...

Rudy's design mounts the motor on the rod holders and resting on the akas- which has seemed dicey to me as those rod holders are paper thin.


SteveS?

I'm using a 2x6 and it flexes under acceleration without being re-enforced by a strip of aluminum. I'm not sure how you can say that it's not sturdy without seeing it in person or experiencing it otw. It's modular and it doesn't interfere with any of the functionality of the AI (moving the AKAs in).

I'm interested in your setup and we'll probably see each other soon with the tuna rolling in.


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:37 pm 
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My comment isn't on the sturdiness of the mount itself, but of the in molded rod holders, those things just don't look ready to support anything other than holding a rod. I use a 2x6 as well, but don't see any flex...

I am sure/hope we will see each other for tuna soon!!!

I am planning on making a salmon run later on week, you around?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2013 9:47 pm 
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It's somewhat similar to the island hopper hobie mount. It has extra reinforcements around the AKA bar to be able to support an outboard instead of an electric motor. My guess would be that the 2x6 would break before there is any damage to the kayak and I leash the motor just in case.

I tend to go a little bit further than my AI-sail range because of the outboard. Anything can happen out there, so just make sure that your setup is legit.

I only have a 1/2 day free on sat so will take it easy and will be on a PB on sunday. It sounds like there is a good pink bite in your backyard so good luck this weekend!


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:15 am 
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Here is my mock up which i will weld up in 25mm stainless square section.

Question - anyone think there will be too much twisting force on the tube? I could add in a brace back to the bar going backwards that takes the thrust.

Any other comments before I get cutting....

CC

Image

Image

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:16 am 
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leelanauX wrote:
Chopcat, in the photo you posted of your TI... You have an interesting seat. That's not a Hobie product is it? What kind of seat is that?



It's a Surf to Summit . It is Ok but I'm not raving about it

CC

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 6:22 am 
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Location: sarasota,fl
Chopcat :
I have a 2 hp Island hopper outboard on my TI. The mount is 2 3/8 dia steel rods thru PVC mounted in the rod holders (not the best design but it does work). One problem I had initially was when the engine goes up and down in speed the motor flex's quite a bit from the torque. So if your in choppy conditions the motor starts oscillating forward and back, very annoying. I ended up tying a spectra string to the lower shaft , then clipped to eyelets near the back of the boat to prevent the oscillation. This works well enough, but if I were to do it again I would be adding a brace that takes some of that rotating load and transferring it to the hull rail.
As soon as my 2 hp motor dies (it's too small for the TI) I'm planning on getting a 2.3hp Honda (the motor I probably should have got in the first place), and plan to build a new motor mount at the same time.
With my Island hopper mounted in the scupper holes you basically have to be sitting in the back seat to operate the motor ( I hate the back seat). When I install the Honda I will likely mount it on or near the rear AKA brace somehow (would have to design something...) so I can operate the motor from the front seat. But am also thinking mounting it that far forward it will be in the way of pretty much everything. So I'm at odds, maybe the 20 lbs motor I currently have mounted way back in the boat was not such a bad idea after all. I always have it mounted on the boat (for safety), but it is seldom used, and it's small enough and out of the way enough that it doesn't bother me have it on board along with 50 miles of fuel (1 gallon). I keep the extra gas in a red plastic gas can in a yellow cloth bag (like a publics cloth grocery bag), this keeps the gas cool (evaporation from the cloth bag) and shields the can from direct sunlight. Another thing I noticed is if you can keep all that extra weight (motor, gas, anchor, etc) as far back as possible on the boat, it is definitely better.


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