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PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2013 8:39 am 
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"Flip over any kayak with a hatch and see what happens......the same thing. Its water, it will find its way in anything if you let it."

I own a Wilderness Systems Tarpon 120. Unfortunately I have flipped it a few times in rapids. The hatches do not leak.
I have owned a Hobie Outback and a Hobie Adventure. The hatches did not leak.
I am in the Potomac River Smallmouth Club. Many members use sit on tops, no Hobies because the Mirage drive doesn't do well in shallow rivers. I have not heard of any leaky hatches and, like me, they flip on occasion.

I believe the good engineers at Hobie can make a hatch, even a big one, that will at least be water resistant. Picture the hatch in front of the seat stretched into the trapezoidal shape, beefed up and with twist locks on 3 sides. Bulky? Inconvient? Form follows function.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2013 9:45 pm 
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I have flipped mine for learning purposes and with bit turned over for 5 minutes or so it only got about half the hatch full of water. Is that unrealistic or an unacceptable amount of water to enter the seal? Do you carry a hand pump on board?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 10:44 am 
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First, since I started this thread I must apologize for calling this a safety issue (re. the thread PA 12 doesn't sink). But I am a bit dismayed with people's acceptance of this problem. It is unnecessary and could be fixed. When I drove to Maine last week in a driving rain the hull had quite a bit of water in it and I had just gotten it from the dealer, never been in the water. Oh well.
btw, boat is terrific.
I have a Torqeedo mounted off the stern and tied into Hobie steering. It works great. Only problem so far is that weed removal requires beaching. Evolve doesn't have this problem but I like being able to peddle and/or motor. It's a bit inconvient to remove for transport, again advantage Evolve.
Got off the schneid with a nice 32" Striper.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 12:20 pm 
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Why is it inconvenient to remove for transport. Loosen 2 screws and 2 latches and off it comes. About a minute for me.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:00 pm 
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Thanks for explaining how to mount my Torqeedo Memory Maker, couldn't have done it without you.
Removing the motor isn't a big deal but it is much easier to simply pull out the Evolve as you would the Mirage drive. Puts and takes.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 25, 2013 6:34 am 
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Anytime guy .......... just wanted to make sure it wasn't something more about the removal. You're right. Not as easy as uncliping and sliding out but you have to remember that you still have to use an alignment tool to make sure the propeller is in the right position to remove the Evolve.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:04 pm 
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I wouldnt feel bad calling it a safety issue. I love my PA but often worry about my hatch in the ocean. Hobie should offer a proper hatch to current PA owners at cost, for everyones safety including theirs.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 28, 2013 11:06 pm 
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Or at least some type a retro fit kit that seals that hatch for my PA 14 or the 12. Cmon hobie help your brothers out before someone loses their boat, gets hurt or worse.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 31, 2013 8:56 pm 
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Having just read this chain through from the first post once more, I discovered two things:

1. Old Timer apparently hasn't had this problem himself, he has been "told" it's a problem. Good return on the bait tossed out though! Well done! :shock:

2. Us PA owners are selectively cheap. We'll spend hundreds on trailers, toys and add-ons for the PA, but can't part with $10 for 20 feet of rubber weatherstripping from Lowes to "solve a problem" that honestly, isn't really a problem. :roll:

A hole in any hull will gather water (Ya think?). Be happy there's any type of cover at all. Don't like that it doesn't keep your whatever bone dry? Fix it.

Happy pedaling!


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 2:47 am 
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Kingston Helo Guy wrote:
Having just read this chain through from the first post once more, I discovered two things:

1. Old Timer apparently hasn't had this problem himself, he has been "told" it's a problem. Good return on the bait tossed out though! Well done! :shock:

2. Us PA owners are selectively cheap. We'll spend hundreds on trailers, toys and add-ons for the PA, but can't part with $10 for 20 feet of rubber weatherstripping from Lowes to "solve a problem" that honestly, isn't really a problem. :roll:

A hole in any hull will gather water (Ya think?). Be happy there's any type of cover at all. Don't like that it doesn't keep your whatever bone dry? Fix it.

Happy pedaling!


Spot on


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 10:32 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The expected orientation of a kayak is upright, so these large forward hatches are primarily for shedding spray, rain etc.

The boats are not submarines, and like most any small row boat, sail boat, power boat... if you flip them, they could take on water.

If the boat does take on water... all hulls now have positive flotation foam inside to help prevent complete sinking.

Adding a latch of some sort to help prevent heavy loads withing the hatch from pushing the hatch open sounds like a good idea for open ocean or for folks prone to flipping. We have not yet decided on a possible accessory such as this.

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Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 11:30 am 
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I post to learn. I thank everyone for their comments.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2013 6:39 pm 
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Pivot wrote:
I did some modifications to my PA12's front hatch to aid in the sealing abilities.

1) I removed the bungee straps and applied Yeti cooler type ties to secure the door.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/8p4n19a7dbd146u/IMG_0800.JPG

2) I added car door stripping to the front tray rim to seal off on the door when closed.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/61n29zekicljz3o/IMG_0801.JPG

3) I cut a door knob hole in the tray and re-routed the door strap to allow sealing of the bottom seal to the tray.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5mc5mifxaurklsm/IMG_0802.JPG

Not sure how this works yet but I feel better about it. :wink:

Pivot


Thanks for the description and pics, Pivot. Two questions...
1) Your re-routing of the lid strap would prevent quick and easy removal of the tub. Did you re-engineer this with any sort of buckle mechanism to overcome that?
2) Those Yeti latches look pretty heavy-duty. How tight do you think the seal would be using your tub weatherstripping, but then just relying on the standard bungees that Hobie provides to hold the lid closed?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2013 11:27 am 
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Thanks for the description and pics, Pivot. Two questions...
1) Your re-routing of the lid strap would prevent quick and easy removal of the tub. Did you re-engineer this with any sort of buckle mechanism to overcome that?

Mine came with a quick removal buckle on the strap which I just un-clipped and ran through the hole.

2) Those Yeti latches look pretty heavy-duty. How tight do you think the seal would be using your tub weatherstripping, but then just relying on the standard bungees that Hobie provides to hold the lid closed?[/quote]

I started by using the original bungee cords at the time I did this and noticed within a week they'd begun to stretch. That's when I decided to go with Plan-B and ordered those lid latches. I really don't know how much sealing I have since I haven't really submerged it to see but I do notice that there is compression on the top stripping from the lid. Obviously it's probably not 100% but it sure beats the way it was beforehand as the routing of the buckle strap was between the tray and seal which would completely negate any sealing using the original system.

Pivot


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:51 am 
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I thought there might be some interest in my effort to feel better about the front hatch on my PA12.

Image
That should hold it.

Image
Bushings added to seal bungee holes in hatch cover.

Image
Gasket material from Hobie placed around bucket and hatch cover.

Image


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