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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:19 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 24, 2008 3:58 am
Posts: 578
Location: Knoxville, TN
If your gudgeons are firmly attached and are in alignment, the last thing I'd do is change what's working. I sailed with the standard gudgeons as did most of the Divison 14 guys that I raced with. I also felt that the standard barber hauler system worked fine. You'll want to add a Wrinklie tube (holds the mast rotation arm level) if your boat doesn't have one and positive mast rotation bungees. Other than that, the stock set up is pretty good.

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Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 21, 2013 10:42 pm 
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Mark, I was chatting with a guy in Tyler Texas, Chris Johnston Said you were "the" Hobie 20 guy. But ya went to a H16? Here in TN? Small world if so! I happen to have a Hobie 16 and now the 20. You're welcomed to use both, any time you're in the area! I sail mainly in N. MS. But would be happily to haul boat anywhere in a 6hr radius for a weekend.
Tim

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Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 4:18 am 
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Location: Knoxville, TN
Chris is a good friend of mine and we've sailed together often. I really enjoy one-design racing, but that requires having other boats of the same class around to race with. When I lived in Shreveport, I was in relatively close proximity with several other Division 14 H20 sailors and we could usually count on having a good class at our regattas. On the other hand, East Tennessee is a different environment. No actively sailed 20s around here, let alone anyone racing them. The nearest active 20 is in Charleston, SC, were Tim Fitzgerald is trying to raise enthusiasm for a 20 fleet (sold him my old boat). Since I live in Knoxville now, I've gone to the H16 because it offers the best possibility of one-design racing over here in Division 9. Since I'm the new Division Chair and am trying to reinvigorate one-design Hobie racing over here, I need to be racing the boat that offers the best opportunity for that. Hence, I have embraced the Hobie 16 and am really enjoying it.

We rarely have wind in the summertime in Knoxville, so I'd be doing you a disservice if I invited you to bring your boat all the way over here in hopes of sailing. Really, it's that bad. However, I grew up sailing on Kentucky Lake and still have family in Murray, Kentucky, and may show up there sometime this summer with the 16. I'll keep you posted. From Memphis, some of the best catamaran racing around is due south at the Ocean Springs Yacht Club in Ocean Springs, MS, http://www.osyc.com/. Mid-Winters East will probably be there in the spring, I may make it down there with some of my Division 9 brethren. They also have several other good cat regattas from spring through fall. Two of the best are their endurance races, the Slip to Ship and the Island Hop. I did Slip to Ship a couple years ago and had a ball. Another great regatta on the coast is the Juana's Good Time Regatta in Navarre Beach, usually the weekend after Labor Day, http://www.juanaspagodas.com/RegattaNews.htm. I've been wanting to go to that one for several years but haven't been able to put that trip together yet.

If I can answer any questions regarding the 20, feel free to ask. Click on my profile and you'll find my private email address.

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Mark Van Doren
Division 9 Chairman
H16 #112205 (Richard Petty Signature Edition)
H14T #47787
H20 #647 (sold)


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 Post subject: Here's some pics...
PostPosted: Sun Nov 24, 2013 9:57 pm 
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Let me know if you see any trouble spots or areas of concern or good things that are visible.... i have a little bit of decal adhesive residue to still buff out on the sides of the hulls for sure. Trampoline looks near new even though i think it OEM 1996. In person.... you could eat off the hull tops, hull bottoms have barely a mark, the rudders and dagger boards look like new and the sails are in 9.5/10 condition.

Tim

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_________________
Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 25, 2013 3:36 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 2591
Location: Jersey Shore
Nice looking boat. However, something looks a little funky with the mast step ball. It looks like the ball is sticking up above the top of the crossbar higher than normal. Check to see if the ball is coming unscrewed from the post. Otherwise, the dolphin striker may need to be adjusted to bring the post down (maybe Hobie can provide the dimension for the ball above the top of the crossbar). Just looks too high. I imagine if it's too high, you could bend the striker post or torque the front crossbar.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 26, 2013 9:33 pm 
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Location: Kailua 96734
Cherry. Those rudders tell the real story,.. But check the dagger wells for signs of impact and leaking.

It looks like the trailer got more exercise than the boat. I would look closely at the bunks (cracking) and at the hulls where they were in constant contact.

Hopefully, lotta good years left in that boat.

(BTW, the boat's as big as the house! That guy has his priorities straight.) :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 4:23 pm 
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Forgot to show you guys the dagger boards. BTW, there's exactly 1.5" of threaded post between the nut and the ball on the mast step. Sound normal? It looks the same that i've seen on pics of other H20's. I took the advise and looked over the dagger wells and the areas around the opening on the bottom very close. Like everything else i've observed, it looks near new. :D

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_________________
Tim Grover

Memphis, TN

1978 H16 (sold)
1986 H16 (sold)
1980 H16 (sold)
1996 H20 Miracle (just right)
Bought another H16. Solid!!


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 5:33 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Fxloop wrote:
BTW, there's exactly 1.5" of threaded post between the nut and the ball on the mast step. Sound normal? It looks the same that i've seen on pics of other H20's.


I measured my 17 and there is 1" between the bottom of the ball and the top of the crossbar extrusion, give or take 1/8". Both boats use the same mast base/ball arrangement, so it just looked a bit high, but to be honest, I haven't seen a 20 in a while. Anyway, if it's the same as other 20s you've looked at, then probably nothing to worry about. It just looked a little high to me.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 7:15 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada
srm wrote:
Fxloop wrote:
BTW, there's exactly 1.5" of threaded post between the nut and the ball on the mast step. Sound normal? It looks the same that i've seen on pics of other H20's.


I measured my 17 and there is 1" between the bottom of the ball and the top of the crossbar extrusion, give or take 1/8". Both boats use the same mast base/ball arrangement, so it just looked a bit high, but to be honest, I haven't seen a 20 in a while. Anyway, if it's the same as other 20s you've looked at, then probably nothing to worry about. It just looked a little high to me.

sm


Gateway has same ball post sticking up a a bit higher than H17. My guess, it is so there is a bit more space to put the ring into the mast pin. On my H17 it is a bit of pain to insert that ring before mast stepping.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 7:33 pm 
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Location: Jersey Shore
jackB wrote:
My guess, it is so there is a bit more space to put the ring into the mast pin. On my H17 it is a bit of pain to insert that ring before mast stepping.


A lot of people don't install the split ring, they remove the pin after the mast is stepped. If a shroud breaks, you want the mast to pop off the ball, otherwise you will damage the front crossbar and/or mast. But, if you prefer to sail with the pin installed, you just put the split ring on after the mast is up (and remove before dropping the mast).

sm


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:00 am
Posts: 46
Location: Northern VA
Make sure the dolphin striker diagonals are tight. If the post and diagonals are loose, might need to try to move both nuts to move the post down and tension the striker. If the boat was used in saltwater, that might be impossible; there's an aluminum sleeve that freezes to the rod.

Otherwise boat looks very clean; have fun!


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