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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
This is a follow up on an older thread:
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=44782

I have succeeded to fix my heavy leaking front hatch and tryed it out under season 2013.
The hatch is not leaking a single drop of water.
The tubular sealing must be replaced at least once a year and it is done in 30 seconds and cost about 2 US $. There is now no sealing at all mounted on the hatch.

BTW I forgot to say that I have adjust the shape of hull and hatch so they fitted better together than before. Mostly with knife (takes time!).

My english is not the best but I hope the pictures are clear enought.

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The new sealing profile mounted on hull. This is more for protecting the edge of the hull when packing and unloding equipment. There is also a flat selfglued piece of rubber to prevent the tubular sealing from gliding on the hull.

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Close view of the new protection list. This is NOT glued to the hull just pressed on.

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Length of tubular pipe isolation glued to round sealing. Just before pressing it in to the trench.

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Ready and done. No glue.

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Wrong mounted. The glued seam is later moved to point backwards.

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If any water pass the tubular sealing, the protection list prevents it from getting into hull.
The protection list rise the hull edge and also protect the tubular sealing.

Pictures below show how things looked after season.
Image
Image
Image
Image

best regards
thomas (in Sweden)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:47 pm 
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Location: South Florida
Looks great, Thomas, but you didn't tell us what the seal was. Please give us a link to the seal material. Of course, my Roids seal is working fine into its second year, but nothing wrong with a good alternative. I think Hobie should come out with Thomas's seal or one like mine, so that we don't have to look around for it. My "Roids" seal is discussed at http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=46308 It is still holding strong into its second year.

Keith

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:40 pm 
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Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
Hi Keith

Chekika wrote:
Looks great, Thomas, but you didn't tell us what the seal was. Please give us a link to the seal material.
This is also Armaflex. Diameter 27-28 mm, the hole in the middle, diameter 12-13 mm. The real difference is that mine is not split and not glued to the hatch or the hull. Just gently pressed down in "dich" around the hatch opening. I place the edge of the hatch on top of the armaflex. When fastened with the bungys, the hatch sink a little bit down in the soft armaflex.
Chekika wrote:
Of course, my Roids seal is working fine into its second year, but nothing wrong with a good alternative.
Well, maybe my sealing will also last more than year, time will tell.
Chekika wrote:
I think Hobie should come out with Thomas's seal or one like mine, so that we don't have to look around for it.
Yes and I think that Hobie should test themselves how good/bad the original double sealing really works. Maybe then they will come up with some new thinking.
Chekika wrote:
I followed that thread and even posted in it. I think I have read everything about leaking hatches in this forum.

Now we are at least 2 Adventure Islands with completely watertight front hatches. :D :D

best regards
thomas


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2010 10:17 pm
Posts: 30
Location: Jerrabomberra, New South Wales, Australia
Here is one Yakass did.

http://modernkayakfishing.com/articles/ ... atch-seals


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 6:47 am 
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Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
xdcammer wrote:


This looks like a good solution.
(Though I am a little bit doubtfull about chockcord in a clamcleat.)

br thomas


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 8:25 am 
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Location: Long Island NY
... I keep thinking shower cap, or something close

and No, thats not me

Image

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'07 Hobie Adventure Island #1
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:11 am 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Kal-P-Dal wrote:
xdcammer wrote:


This looks like a good solution.
(Though I am a little bit doubtfull about chockcord in a clamcleat.)

br thomas

I don't see any reason why using shockcord in a camcleat would present any issues. In fact, I suspect that its relative softness would allow the cleat to get a more secure grip (on the basis that the harder the line, the less the teeth can grip)

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM"
www.scenefromabove.com.au


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