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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 2:48 pm 
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Location: Sollentuna, Sweden, Europe
This is a follow up on an older thread:
viewtopic.php?f=75&t=44782

I have succeeded to fix my heavy leaking front hatch and tryed it out under season 2013.
The hatch is not leaking a single drop of water.
The tubular sealing must be replaced at least once a year and it is done in 30 seconds and cost about 2 US $. There is now no sealing at all mounted on the hatch.

BTW I forgot to say that I have adjust the shape of hull and hatch so they fitted better together than before. Mostly with knife (takes time!).

My english is not the best but I hope the pictures are clear enought.

Image
The new sealing profile mounted on hull. This is more for protecting the edge of the hull when packing and unloding equipment. There is also a flat selfglued piece of rubber to prevent the tubular sealing from gliding on the hull.

Image
Close view of the new protection list. This is NOT glued to the hull just pressed on.

Image
Length of tubular pipe isolation glued to round sealing. Just before pressing it in to the trench.

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Ready and done. No glue.

Image
Wrong mounted. The glued seam is later moved to point backwards.

Image
If any water pass the tubular sealing, the protection list prevents it from getting into hull.
The protection list rise the hull edge and also protect the tubular sealing.

Pictures below show how things looked after season.
Image
Image
Image
Image

best regards
thomas (in Sweden)


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2014 4:47 pm 
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Looks great, Thomas, but you didn't tell us what the seal was. Please give us a link to the seal material. Of course, my Roids seal is working fine into its second year, but nothing wrong with a good alternative. I think Hobie should come out with Thomas's seal or one like mine, so that we don't have to look around for it. My "Roids" seal is discussed at http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=69&t=46308 It is still holding strong into its second year.

Keith

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 2:40 pm 
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Hi Keith

Chekika wrote:
Looks great, Thomas, but you didn't tell us what the seal was. Please give us a link to the seal material.
This is also Armaflex. Diameter 27-28 mm, the hole in the middle, diameter 12-13 mm. The real difference is that mine is not split and not glued to the hatch or the hull. Just gently pressed down in "dich" around the hatch opening. I place the edge of the hatch on top of the armaflex. When fastened with the bungys, the hatch sink a little bit down in the soft armaflex.
Chekika wrote:
Of course, my Roids seal is working fine into its second year, but nothing wrong with a good alternative.
Well, maybe my sealing will also last more than year, time will tell.
Chekika wrote:
I think Hobie should come out with Thomas's seal or one like mine, so that we don't have to look around for it.
Yes and I think that Hobie should test themselves how good/bad the original double sealing really works. Maybe then they will come up with some new thinking.
Chekika wrote:
I followed that thread and even posted in it. I think I have read everything about leaking hatches in this forum.

Now we are at least 2 Adventure Islands with completely watertight front hatches. :D :D

best regards
thomas


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 4:15 pm 
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Location: Jerrabomberra, New South Wales, Australia
Here is one Yakass did.

http://modernkayakfishing.com/articles/ ... atch-seals


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 6:47 am 
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xdcammer wrote:


This looks like a good solution.
(Though I am a little bit doubtfull about chockcord in a clamcleat.)

br thomas


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 8:25 am 
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... I keep thinking shower cap, or something close

and No, thats not me

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 14, 2014 9:11 am 
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Kal-P-Dal wrote:
xdcammer wrote:


This looks like a good solution.
(Though I am a little bit doubtfull about chockcord in a clamcleat.)

br thomas

I don't see any reason why using shockcord in a camcleat would present any issues. In fact, I suspect that its relative softness would allow the cleat to get a more secure grip (on the basis that the harder the line, the less the teeth can grip)

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 14, 2015 6:12 pm 
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Yep, bungee in the cam cleats worked out just fine. Never had any issues with it, and it certainly helped keep water out.

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 15, 2015 2:09 pm 
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OK, the bungee will perhaps work fine in the cam cleats, just my lack of experience in that matter.

Another lack of experience was my belive that I needed to change my home-made sealing once a year.
I had to try it out.
It lasted 2 years without leaking a single dro of water.
Therafter the sealing was clearly affected by the sun. (Not by usage!)
As it was very easy to make a new sealing, and the cost was next to nothing, I could'nt stop myself from changing it.

I will keep this solution as long as I keep my AI "Hart of Gold".
The real work was to adjust the hatch cover and the hull to meet each other with smallest possible gap.
That work is already done.

br thomas


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 4:46 am 
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Hi Thomas,

i am addressing the front hatch as well at the moment....a few questions.
1. can i assume you took all the rubber seals of before you aligned everything (just double checking to understand what you did)
2. what profile rubber seal is the bottom one i have seen in your picture? (mine is different at the moment)
3. what glue did you use to put them back on?

Thanks a lot!
best hendrik


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 8:16 am 
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Hi Hendrik

TheFlyingNorthman wrote:
Hi Thomas,

i am addressing the front hatch as well at the moment....a few questions.
1. can i assume you took all the rubber seals of before you aligned everything (just double checking to understand what you did)
Yes I took of all rubber seals before any action. But I checked it out with lipstick when all rubber seals still where in place.

2. what profile rubber seal is the bottom one i have seen in your picture? (mine is different at the moment)
It is tubular, please read first post in this thread thorughly. If anything is missing there is additional info some posts later.

3. what glue did you use to put them back on?
I only used glue to put the Armaflex sealing into a loop. There is no glue anywhere else.
Don't rember what glue that was, ask when you buy the Armaflex material (cell rubber). This is not a hard case at all, several glues are functional.


Thanks a lot!
best hendrik


The tricky part of this work is to cut away plastic material from hatch cover and hull to make a better fit. I did not start with this work before I knew that I would get a replacement hull if I had failed and compromised the hull. (A compromised hatch cover is a minor problem compared to a compromised hull!)
In the first post there is also a link to a another thread about this issue.
Today I have no sealing on the hatch cover at all. I was not able to perform a double sealing the way it was intended from start.

But the task is doable and I now have a 100% watertight front hatch and submarining is not an issue.
Please, feel free to ask me again if something is unclear described.

Good luck!
Don't accept water inside your hull!

best regards
thomas


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