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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:44 pm
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Location: Katy, TX -- RYA Skipper
Double Bungee: Since the photo a pull loop was added to the SS ring. Used 3/8" marine bungee, 8 Hobie screw in pad eyes, and 4 SS rings (1.5" diameter). The idea was from one of Tom Kirkman's posts, this is just another way to accomplish the same goal using off the shelf products. I measured the force of the stock bungee at 16lbs and the updated double bungees at 34lbs, the difference is immediately noticeable when sailing in rough conditions.
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 2:46 pm 
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Location: Central Coast NSW Australia
Very clever! 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:02 pm 
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Location: South Florida
Like!

Keith

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:28 pm 
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Thanks Steve! 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 3:53 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Top stuff! double the holding power and double redundancy - a perfect combination!

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 6:44 pm 
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Location: Lake Macquarie NSW AUSTRALIA
I was just about to think up that idea. :roll:

So simple. What's next Steve ?

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:10 pm 
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Location: Lakeland and Anna Maria Island, FL
Very nice!


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 10:48 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:44 pm
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Location: Katy, TX -- RYA Skipper
Slaughter wrote:
What's next Steve ?


Was thinking about a backup rudder systems but after some on the water contemplation I've decided it's not necessary. The rudder pins are no problem to replace on the water, and using stainless steel hitch pins as opposed to the stock rings helps make the process quicker. Also, one you practice a while, steering with your paddle becomes quite easy.

Grrrr!
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 5:24 am 
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Location: Fairfax, CA USA
Brilliant!


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:16 pm 
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Location: NJ
Awesome idea! Suggestion tho.....double bungee in my mind is for added tension and as a failsafe....my double bungees hook to two different top hat rivets front and rear. This way there is double the tension yet if one of my rivets breaks the ama still will not release.....i would add a loop of bungee to your ss ring as both a handle to hook the ring with as well as an option to loop around another top hat rivet


-Jeff


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 9:58 pm 
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Location: Vancouver Island, British Columbia
I have to pick up some pad eyes that I ordered and then I'm going to do the double bungee system too.
T2

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2014 11:54 pm 
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Location: Forster, NSW, Australia
Crazy Yak wrote:
Slaughter wrote:
What's next Steve ?


Was thinking about a backup rudder systems but after some on the water contemplation I've decided it's not necessary. The rudder pins are no problem to replace on the water, and using stainless steel hitch pins as opposed to the stock rings helps make the process quicker. Also, one you practice a while, steering with your paddle becomes quite easy.

Grrrr!
SNIP

There is no reason to add ANY sort of retainer to the replacement rudder pin, as the up and down lines plus gravity will keep it in place. Can you advise how you change your rudder pin out on the water. Do you lie on your stomach along the hull, or do you jump overboard and change it from in the water? (AI or TI). Sorry for all the questions.

Also steering with the paddle might be okay in open water with practice, but I would never dare try it crossing my local bar and entering the channel, which can have current flowing at up to nine knots.

I have also filed out the holes on my spare aka brace pins, so I can simply fit a 2mm zip-tie through, rather than fiddling around with a split ring.

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2012 Tandem Island "SIC EM" with Hobie spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2014 8:07 pm 
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Location: Ocean City, NJ
I don't use rings on the rudder pin, especially after trying to remove one while the boat was in the water. It can't go anywhere, anyway.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 7:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 18, 2011 3:33 pm
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Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Back on the subject of double bungee.

I went with the existing bungs as I couldn't get to the Hobie Dealer to buy 4 saddle type bungs, but could get to to the hardware store. I bought 4 316 stainless shackles and a 5m coil of 5mm bungee. I had some stainless steel tie wire from a previous job, bought at the boating shop.

I found if I elongated the hole in the existing screw in plug, with a round file, by 1mm it allowed me to get the two ends of a piece of bungee into the hole. I needed to use a screw driver to push it through and made sure that section of the bungee was cut off after tying a knot. There is enough room in and slightly under the plug for two knots.

To ensure the shackles don't undo, I wrapped the tie wire through the bolt hole and around the shackle. After twisting the two ends together, I pushed the twisted wire into the hole so I don't catch it with my fingers.

On my TI the holes for the plugs are blanked off at the bottom so water entry isn't a problem.

Now if I accidentally bury the ama I feel more confident it will stay attached.

Here is the result.

Image

Brian in South Australia.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 11, 2014 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2013 10:44 pm
Posts: 14
Location: Katy, TX -- RYA Skipper
tonystott wrote:
Crazy Yak wrote:
Slaughter wrote:
What's next Steve ?


Was thinking about a backup rudder systems but after some on the water contemplation I've decided it's not necessary. The rudder pins are no problem to replace on the water, and using stainless steel hitch pins as opposed to the stock rings helps make the process quicker. Also, one you practice a while, steering with your paddle becomes quite easy.

Grrrr!
SNIP

There is no reason to add ANY sort of retainer to the replacement rudder pin, as the up and down lines plus gravity will keep it in place. Can you advise how you change your rudder pin out on the water. Do you lie on your stomach along the hull, or do you jump overboard and change it from in the water? (AI or TI). Sorry for all the questions.

Also steering with the paddle might be okay in open water with practice, but I would never dare try it crossing my local bar and entering the channel, which can have current flowing at up to nine knots.

I have also filed out the holes on my spare aka brace pins, so I can simply fit a 2mm zip-tie through, rather than fiddling around with a split ring.


Gracefully crawl to the stern and get the job done, you will probably need to do some gear rearranging first. The pin can wait for shore as already mentioned. That's a great idea on the spark aka brace pins, will do the same -- thanks!


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