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PostPosted: Fri Nov 15, 2013 8:43 am 
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Hi,
I am looking at a used bravo tomorrow and I have a few question that I am hoping that can be answered in a short time.

1. The boat has a crack in the plastic at the upper pintle and what appears to be a small deformation on the side of the hull. I can do the plastic weld, but I am curious if the pintle is attached to a plate that secures both upper and lower or if the nuts are just in the plastic with no backing plate.

2. The sail shows some sun fading where the color is gone the outside of the leech edge and on the foot. Can the sail loose its color without having significant effect on the performance of the sail. Ofcourse if the threads are separating I'll walk away.

3. It's a 2003 model and saw lots of time in the sun is there anything specific I should look for regarding sun damage. Also, are parts readily available for this older boat and is it possible to upgrade the early parts to the later parts if I need to in the future.

The boat also has a boom kit and I think its a good deal, it's 1 1/2 hours from my house, so I am seeking an experienced opinion before I take the drive.

Please see the photos and thanks in advance for answering

UPDATE: I bought the boat and posted a second reply to this message, but it has not been approved yet....

I will be plastic welding the crack, ordering a few parts and I will continue to post here with my repair progress. I asked a question in my next post, so hopefully it will appear soon.

-Rob
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Last edited by tradisrad on Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:22 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 16, 2013 7:47 pm 
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Well I drove out to Stockton CA, crime capitol of the state, this morning and checked out the bravo. Everything was as good as could be expected, so I loaded it up and made it out alive.

One thing that has me puzzled is the mast float has water in i and I can't figure out how to drain it. It seems to be totally sealed and I even removed a set of the attachment strap screws to no avail on draining it. There appears to be a hot glue "plug" in the bottom of the float and I am thinking of drilling and draining. Any thoughts?


Last edited by tradisrad on Mon Sep 29, 2014 6:23 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 18, 2013 9:41 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Also appears to have a crack in the transom? You can try plastic welding.

We add drain plugs now, to you could do the same. Drill and place a screw in the hole.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 9:13 am 
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I've made a lot of progress on getting the boat ready to sail.
I disassembled and cleaned the rudder assy and it now works smoothly.
Image

I plastic welded the crack in the transom. I embedded some screen into the plastic to act as "rebar", sorry no picture of the rebar. The weld is not pretty, but I expect it to last. I used a plastic welding iron and a heat gun that I adapted a funnel to in order to narrow the flow of hot air.
Before:
Image
Welded: I did sand the weld to make it look a little better than it looks in the photo. Unfortunately the iron tends to burn the plastic and discolors it as a result.
Image

I drained the mast float and installed a screw to plug it.

I replaced all 4 lifting handles and will install new hiking pads (2 of the 4 are new) this morning.

All lines have been replaced. However I do have a question about the bungee that tensions the righting line. I attached both ends of the bungee to the righting line, but I don't think this is correct. May someone describe or post a photo of the proper attachment?

The old Viking hatches don't seems to seal and I don't want to drop $100 on the upgrade hatches. Who has a solution for this? I was thinking of finding large o-rings or cutting a neoprene gasket.

I hope to get it on the water today if we get some afternoon wind.

Update: We got the Bravo on the water last night (12/2/13) and we are really happy with our purchase.


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 03, 2013 5:13 pm 
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Location: Southern IN
tradisrad wrote:
However I do have a question about the bungee that tensions the righting line. I attached both ends of the bungee to the righting line, but I don't think this is correct. May someone describe or post a photo of the proper attachment?


One end of the bungee should have a pulley, the other a loop. The forward port underside hiking strap goes through the loop, bungie feeds into the pulley on the rear hull near the back (inside), then the righting line runs through the pulley on the end of the bungie.

Image

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2008 Bravo


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 04, 2013 7:44 pm 
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I hope you did not tip your boat over for me!
That is just what I was looking for. Thanks

A friend suggested that I install a metal plate on the out side of the boat connecting the top and bottom pintels to help prevent the stress on the upper pintle and possible re-cracking or failure of the plastic weld. There is a metal plate on the inside and adding one to the outside makes a lot of sense and I think it will really secure the rudder/mainsheet connection. The boat I bought was left outside and I think the main sheet was always attached and taunt and I am guessing that this force is what led to the crack.
edit 12/6/13. I added an aluminum plate to the outside of the transom.
Image

I am looking to upgrade the tendon between the tiller and extension. I've seen a few ideas from the Wave crowd, but nothing for the early Bravos; it looks like the issues was solved with the post 2004 bravos. Has anyone done such a mod?
I upgraded my tiller extension tendon to a yoke and hinge. I used the existing tiller handle and had a friend machine a bushing to fit in the tendon hole. I then attached Hobie yoke p/n 3205 to the tiller handle using my new bushing a 5/16" bolt. The extension was made from a 1/2" aluminum tube (no racing, so no rules to worry about) and this was bolted to a Hobie standard hinge p/n 10532010. I placed some plastic washers between the hinge and yoke to remove any slop. I now have a tight tiller extension.
Here is a picture of the bushing with the yoke:
Image

And the assembly:
Image


Last edited by tradisrad on Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:57 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 06, 2013 1:38 pm 
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Location: Southern IN
Nice repair!

That pic was from years ago, the first day I had it out. I'm a big believer in flipping one's boat early, and often.

Is that a harbor freight trailer in the last pic?

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2008 Bravo


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 8:38 am 
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Yes, it is a Harbor Freight trailer, 4x8. The boat just fits inside the fenders. I am planning on adding some sort of bunks and I also want to make some ramp to slide the boat on & off.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2014 2:10 am 
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Nice post!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:02 pm 
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First, I will answer my own question on the sail condition from my first post. Yes, the sail is sun damaged an may need repair. So, after a handful of outings the sail tore on me. I took it to a local shop and he repaired the sail by adhering a layer over the sun damaged portion, basically the leech and foot. He also re-stitched most of the sail.

I've done some more work to the Bravo and though I'd share.
I was not all that happy with the boom vang so I had to change it out. I had replaced the rope on the stock boom vang with 3/16" and I found that the rope was hard to release. I also thought that the vang did not have a lot pull. So I went to the local shop and bought a few blocks, Harken H244 & H225, and I now have a nice 3:1 system that is easy to use and has a bit more pull.

Image


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PostPosted: Sat May 24, 2014 10:40 am 
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I'm going to continue to add my boat fixes and mods to this thread to keep it all in one place.

My batten poked through the bottom of the sail last week, so with a little research I came up with a fix. My bravo is an early model and the batten pocket protectors are folded plastic of some sort and from what I can tell the later model bravos came with "real" pocket protectors that are two pieces riveted together.
I found the same two piece parts are used on Hobie 16 jibs. So I orders some from Murray's marine. I was a bit disappointed as the Murry's description clearly stated the pocket protectors come with brass hardware. Not the case. They came with rivets like the picture showed. So I grabbed some stainless hardware from work and got busy with the repair.

Image

Image


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2014 9:58 am 
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Thanks for sharing. Very nice boat!


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2014 5:09 pm 
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Great updates, just wondering if you found any updates for your viking hatches... My hosting that old my parents bought it for the cottage only a couple years ago. But they don't seal completely flat (more the front one with my safety kit in it)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2014 8:22 pm 
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I replaced the seals on the viking hatches. I contacted Viking http://www.vikingmfg.com/and they were only a few dollars, so I also ordered a spare o-ring. With that said the front hatch still gets water in it from the sprinklers when the boat is not covered and perhaps a little gets in from splashes or burying the bow. The rear hatch seem to seal better than the front. I don't get any water in the hull when sailing even in a capsize.


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