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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:48 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:31 am
Posts: 79
Location: Michigan
I have a 79' H16, with an 80's style jib rig system:

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures?g2_itemId=10632&g2_imageViewsIndex=1

After many years of seasonal remove and re install, the swivel cams and jib track end stop screw holes, have all become stripped. I have used bigger screws in the end stops of the jib track, but they no longer bite in.
On each swivel cam the screws, ( 2 each) are counter sunk bevel heads that, when fully seated, are level with the bottom plate, so cam can rotate. The use of, a next size up, won't work. because the bevel head is to big to fit flush with the surface of the plate, causing the rotation to bind, because of lack of clearance.
I've got a idea on how I can correct this ( plastic, dry wall anchor inserts) but looking for other suggestions, ideas that others have used for this problem.
Riveting is not desirable, because I remove everything at the end of the season to protect it from the winter. I'm not sure, I'd want to grind SS screws either, but I may not have to many options here.

I know I'm not the first to deal with this, anyone have some tried and true solutions?
I want to find out what others have done.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 8:54 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Move them a 1/4" ... new holes.

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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:06 am 
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Location: Michigan
I've considered that on the swivel cam cleats Matt,
I would have to re drill and re rivet the plastic base too, Where it mounts to the cross bar.
I guess my only ? on that is if I run the risk of weakening the cross bar in those spots. Because then there will be three holes open in a triangle shape. would it take the stress and strain of higher wind sailing.

Then again, I could rivet with flat headed rivets, the now empty holes.

And then there is the end stops to consider.

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 10, 2014 9:15 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The beam is plenty strong. Tracks and cleats can be moved.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2014 11:39 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4176
Location: Jersey Shore
Install a heli-coil and use a #10-24 stainless steel machine screw. Also stop removing the cleats at the end of the season - it's really unnecessary. If you're worried about them becoming weathered, then wrap the entire front crossbar in shrink wrap. Your removing and re-installing those screws every year is probably what wore out the threads, especially if you didn't pick up the old threads when re-installing the self-tapping screws.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2014 8:12 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:31 am
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Location: Michigan
That is a good idea srm,
Heli-coil & ss machine screw/bolt would be better. I'll just untie the jib sheets and leave the blocks on. I've got some wrap to cover them with. Snow, water, and ice was the main reason, I removed them every year. If it got down in the bearings it could crack those spring loaded cleat jaws or destroy the bearings.

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