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PostPosted: Sun Jun 06, 2004 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 06, 2004 1:49 pm
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Location: Jamestown, RI
I just grabbed a H14 for an unbeatable $100. Everything is in workable condition, but I have a few questions as this is my first hobie. After reading the online assembly manuals to make sure everything is right, I noticed that the tramp was originally rigged with rope. Mine has thick black bungee lines which I imagine is a lot more flexible. Good or Bad?

Also, I purchased new wires, and after rigging, the mast rake looks a little extreme. I have the forestay in the tightest setting on the tension adjuster. Can anyone give me some advise here. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2004 9:25 am 
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You should replace the bungee with some rope-the tramp will be too springy and loose other wise. Do you have the correct length forestay and bridle wires? Their are two different type bridles-one for the standard 14 and one for the Turbo 14. The Turbo also has an upper forestay. If you have a standard H14 WITHOUT a jib, you don't want the upper forestay-somehting with your wires isn't right if the mast isn't vertical with the forestay in the lowest pin on the adjuster!

Sam


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 11, 2004 5:30 pm 
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Location: Jamestown, RI
Ok, thanks for the help. I think I have the rigging figured out now. I've sailed mostly mono hulls up to this point with no more than a 2 or 3 degree rake to the mast. After reading some other posts, I realized I should be able to sheet in the main until the blocks are touching on the Main sheet. That requires a strong rake.

This forum is a great tool for us newbies. Tons of info.

Thanks
Marcus


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 15, 2004 5:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 9:32 pm
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Location: West Texas
I've seen a number of boats rigged with shock cord instead of rope for the tramp. I'm not sure what the advantage is supposed to be when I also see other people advocating pulling the tramp ropes with vice grips as you're threading it so that it's super tight. I'm curious as to what various people have to say about this. :)

Jim

P.S. - forgive my crossing into H14 territory. ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 11:06 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Usually a 3/8" shock cord / Bunjee is used. It is easier to get tight and spreads the tension over more grommets. Line can point-load a grommet and cause the tramp material around it to tear. Especially when being tightened with vise grips or pliers (be carefull).

The drawback is that the bunjee is not as stiff and flexes more. Line holds the tramp and frame more rigid / stiff. Bunjee usually does not last as long, but you don't have to re-tension.

Use a low stretch line and you won't have to re-tension as often, if ever. The stock line is a bit soft and has to be re-tensioned after some use as the line sets.

A trick for trampoline tensioning on 14s and 16s...

Use a mainsheet block, tackle and an extra length of line. Wrap the system around the tramp area and side bars. Tension to pull the side bars in as they would be when the tramp is tight. Tension the tramp (takes less effort), then release the mainsheet system.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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 Post subject: tramp line
PostPosted: Thu Jun 17, 2004 7:06 pm 
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Location: Weston, Fl
Shock cord always does the job. Why do you want it so rigid and tight anyways. If the boat is not tight they are other things you can do like putting spacers in the pilons, etc.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 19, 2004 1:51 pm 
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Location: Jamestown, RI
That mainsheet trick works wonders. I was able to get the shock cord really tight, and I've noticed alot less flex in my hulls as a result. Thanks everyone for the good advise

Marcus
H14
Narragansett Bay


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 20, 2004 1:52 pm 
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Location: West Texas
Impressive. I'll try the main block trick next time I re-lace the tramp. :)

Jim


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 Post subject: Why tight?
PostPosted: Mon Jun 21, 2004 3:10 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
The 14 and 16 need to have tight trampolines to hold the platform rigid. This is more than just the pylon to hull connection being tight. The crossbars and sidebars are not rigid by themselves. The hulls can shift fore and aft in relation to each other. A tight trampoline keeps the platform rigid... a tight boat is a fast boat.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:41 pm 
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You can also lace it nice and tight with shock-cord and the double lace it with static line. Works great!

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2011 Hobie 16 from West Coast Sailing


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