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 Post subject: Tapered Sheets
PostPosted: Thu Apr 06, 2006 1:04 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jul 05, 2005 8:45 am
Posts: 759
Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Anybody using tapered sheets or halyards? and what dimensions?

Thanks in advance :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 11:50 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Our boat came with a 9/16" diameter main sheet. New 20's have 7/16".

I'd like to taper the main. We still have the stock 75mm blocks and are concerned about what specific brand/type line will lay properly. What diameter will be too small? Or what brand will work?

Any specific length for the 20? Do we just guess what length will be in the blocks while close hauled? I suppose could always go back to using a boom bale if length was too short.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:32 pm 
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how about a tapere downhaul? that would be nice.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 4:44 pm
Posts: 165
Location: Raleigh, NC
Tapered lines are not Hobie class legal, so watch out!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 5:02 am 
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Actually, they are class legal for certain classes - the 20 being one of them.

Also the FX-1, Tiger and Fox.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 7:23 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Trey,

I was hoping you would be the one to give us some insight on this. What do you think? Is 1/4" (7mm) too small? Do you set up so the larger diameter part of the sheet is always the part that is cleated? In other words, err to the short side, for the tapered portion length?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:46 am 
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Joined: Wed Nov 01, 2006 4:44 pm
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Location: Raleigh, NC
A 1/4" (6mm) is too small for a mainsheet, and you'll regret having it that small in heavy winds (or your crew will!). 5/16" is the size I'd go (8mm), and use a line like FSE Robline's "dinghy control" line, which is taperable and has a very nice coated dyneema core. The line is available through Murrays. Look up their website, call, and ask to talk to Steve Murray. He'll set you up with the line.
Another option is to splice 3/16" (5mm) spectra into a line like 5/16" (8mm) Maffioli or Robline Racing sheet. I am a bigger fan of the racing sheet as it tends to hold its shape much better and last longer.

Never ever ever cleat on the small 12 strand stuff. It will slip out when you least expect it!
*and don't get McLube on your cam cleat either* :)

If anyone wants to do any of this rigging, I can build anything you'd like and ship it to you.
ddbrown (at) ncsu (dot) edu

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Trey Brown
www.velocitysailing.com
2006 N20 1017
1998 H16 102698
www.sunjammers.com ftw!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 8:54 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake Lawrence, KS
Thanks, that's exactly what I wanted to know. :)

I meant is 1/4" too small for the "tapered" end, and I should have stated that I intend to splice.

Also, didn't figure trying to cleat the smaller diameter was a good idea, thanks for that clarification.

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Last edited by John Eaton on Mon Dec 18, 2006 11:13 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:44 am 
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Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
Trey builds great lines! I know the Key team uses them and speech very very highly, the only reason I don't use any of his lines is on a Hobie 16 there no need. If I still sailed the 20 I would have them for sure! Trey is a college kid who's trying to make some money so he can keep sailing at the competitive level!

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